
Class. 
Book 



PRESENTED KIT 



/?^ 






Copyright, 1894. 



PRINTED AT IHE SALEM PRESS. 



CONTENTS. 

I. Introductory, . . . . . . . . i 

II. Points of Historical Interest, .... 8 

III. Public Buildings, 28 

IV. City Buildings, 53 

V. Libraries, Scientific Institutions, etc., ... 60 

VI. Charities, 100 

VII. Business, 105 

VIII. Public Grounds, 112 

IX. Natural Objects OF Interest, . . . .119 

X. Drives and Walks, . . . . . . 126 

XL Hawthorne in Salem, . . . . . . 146 

XII. Souvenir Shopping, 162 

XIII. List of Portraits, 166 

XIV. Bibliography, . . . . . . . . 174 

Index, 177 

(iii) 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



lO 



For the right to use all but two of the photographs from which the 
illustrations in this guide were made, the Publisher is indebted to the 
courtesy of Mr. Frank Cousins. The half-tone prints and the sketches 
are from the Boston Engraving Co., 227 Tremont iSt., Boston. 

City Seal from sketch by Ross Turner, cover and title. 

City Hall, Boston and Maine R. R. Station. Frontispiece. 
Ward house, showing overhanging second story, ^ 
Narbonne house, showing lean-to roof, ( 

Miles Ward house, showing gambrel roof and porch, ^ 
Cabot house, showing gambrel roof about 1 748, J * * 

Gallows Hill, ) 
Shattuck house, ) ' ' ' 

Roger Williams or Witch house, front and rear, ... 24 

North Church, South Church, ^ 

Wesley Church, St. Peter's Church, ^ » • • • 

Custom House, i 

Post Office, ] 

Court Houses, » 
Law Library, ) ' 
Public Library, exterior, | 
Public Library, main hall, / 

(V) 



30 
40 

42 

57 



6o 

75 



VI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Essex Institute, exterior, ^ 

Essex Institute, historical room, ) 

Peabody Academy of Science, rear view, | 

Peabody Academy of Science, East Hall, j * ' 

Peabody Academy of Science, Natural History Collections, . 86 

"Old Burying Point," Charter St., \ 

Ancient headstone. Charter St., ) 

The Willows, \ 

View from the Willows, } 

Baker's Island, Point of rocks, ^ 

Baker's Island, The Chffs, ] ^^^ 

Nichols house, type of Colonial Architecture, i 

Nichols house, paved yard, } 

Dutch doorway modernized, Newell posts, » 

Landing of Macintire staircase, ) 

North Bridge (Leslie's Retreat), i 

Birth-place of Timothy Pickering, S 

Hawthorne, The Birthplace, The Old Town Pump, ^ 

The House of the Seven Gables, Grimshawe House, ^ * * "*' 

Door-heads, The Pineapple, » 

Colonial, Macintire, ( 

Doorways, Colonial, Modernized Colonial, ^ 

Pre-revolutionary, Macintire, ) 



125 
132 
140 



138 



162 



PUBLISHER'S NOTE. 



The editions of the museum guide issued by the Peabody Academy 
of Science in 1879, and the special descriptive pamphlets which had for 
several years previous been published and distributed by the Essex In- 
stitute, having become exhausted, the first edition of the "Visitor's Guide 
to Salem" was prepared and issued in 1880. Since then it has passed 
through many editions and, in all, over thirty thousand copies have been 
placed in circulation. 

This at least shows that it has met with favor from the travelling pub- 
lic and leads the compilers to believe that in a measure it fills a place be- 
fore unoccupied — that of a brief local guide — the intention being to 
condense into as few pages as possible, such information as is needed by 
the tourist or stranger in strolling about the city. This new edition of 
the Guide is made necessary as the issue of 1892 is practically exhausted. 
The few corrections which have come to the notice of the compilers 
through the kindness of friends have been made and such additions as 
the changes of a year call for. 

The compilers fully realize the difficulty in making a book of this 

(vii) 



Vlll PUBLISHER S NOTE. 

character as complete as could be wished and also, from want of space, 
that a large amount of interesting material has to be excluded. The 
visitors to Salem, to whom this Guide most directly appeals, are drawn 
here by its historical associations and by those of its institutions which 
have something to attract the sight-seer and the summer tourist. The 
compilers, therefore, have devoted very little space to the business inter- 
ests of Salem leavings that work to others better qualified to treat it. 
Neither has it been attempted to make this an advertising guide, only to 
the extent of calling attention to certain specialties which tourists might 
desire as souvenirs. The compilers are especially indebted, among 
others, to the following for assistance rendered : Mrs C. E. Upham, 
Hon. R. S. Rantoul, Messrs. G. R. Curwen, H. M. Brooks, C. S. Osgood, 
H. M. Batchelder, Sidney Perley, Ross Turner, Andrew Fitz, Frank 
Cousins, A. R. Stone and Edward F. Brown. The publisher would be 
glad to receive suggestions which would be useful in future editions and 
would also be pleased to be notified of any errors which may need cor- 
rection. 



CHAPTER I. 

Introductory. 

ONE hardly needs a guide to get about Salem, for it is a compact city, 
and even its most tortuous ways do not lead one far astray. What 
is more needed is a kindly friend who will direct a stranger's steps, 
and such a friend does this little book desire to be. The most judicious wis- 
dom does not tell too much, therefore this judicious friend though packed 
full of facts will only allow such to escape him as seem necessary for the 
occasion, knowing well, that the pleasure seeker of a day does not desire 
to have all the events of New England history thrust upon him, for a mass 
of information upon the inquiring mind is as likely to smother as to en- 
lighten. The individual, in quest of things of interest, may find in some 
places, matters of historical value, in others quaint houses or antique 
relics, scientific treasures somewhere else, or perhaps spots to which men 
point as where such and such a famous man was born, whose greatness 
the world still delights to honor. Now Salem can lay claim to each one 
of these causes for distinction, so that it is no wonder that visitors flock 
here continually. Take first her part in history : there are her early setde- 
ment, her association with Roger Williams, and that saddest of all periods, 
the witchcraft delusion, besides which all other episodes wherein she 
bore part seem insigificant. No Bunker Hill Monument points to the 
past, but Salem's link with the Revolution is a square of granite which re- 

(1) 



2 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SAL^.M. 

minds the passer-by that here, on the edge of a stream called the North 
Rh^er, was the first armed resistance to English authority. Salem is very 
old, old as a settlement, old as a town, old as a city. In English biog- 
raphy it must be told what relation the family bore to the Norman Con- 
quest, but in American annals it suffices to be told when the first ancestor 
crossed the Atlantic from the mother country. We think of the pilgrims 
as among the very earliest travellers this way, but Roger Conant and his 
followers settled in Salem only six years after the landing of the May- 
flower, armed with a charter from England which licensed the settling 
of the northern shore of Massachusetts Bay. This document, like many 
another precious thing, is to be seen at the Essex Institute ; the difference 
in time between its date, Jan. i, 1623, and the arrival of Roger Conant 
here in 1626, may be accounted for by the fact that the little band first 
landed and settled at Cape Ann. This they may have found a little 
bleak for a winter's residence ; at all events they came to Salem, then 
called Naumkeag. The old Indian name with its suggestion of toma- 
hawk and arrow gave place to the sound of peace soon after, but Naum- 
keag rules still, for it names a huge cotton mill, an enormous clothmg 
store and prevails over the region in countless other ways. After the 
manner of a far-away council, the Plymouth Company in England granted 
a new charter to Governor Endicott which suspended that of Conant ; a 
duplicate of this grant is preserved by the Salem Athenaeum. Endicott 
and his followers, with the men he found in .the colony, incorporated the 
town of Salem in 1629. The town being established, the next thing 
must be the meeting-house, therefore the first Protestant church in Amer- 
ica was organized here the same year. Among a band of three hundred 
new colonists, came about this time the Rev. Francis Higginson and the 
Rev. Samuel Skelton ; so it will be seen that there was no reason to dis- 
pute that these reverend gentlemen were the foremost preachers of their 
day. In 1630 came John Winthrop to supersede Endicott as Governor 



INTRODUCTORY. 3 

of the Massachusetts Bay Colony. His stay here was a short one for he 
soon moved on to Charlestown and Boston. Such was the beginning of 
the town, but as years went on and attachment for the new home came, 
as inevitably it must, a fear lest some new charter from over the sea might 
dispossess them, caused the worthies of the community to take a deed 
from the Indians the original lords of the land, to make their right secure. 
No such dispossessing charter has ever arrived, but lest it should, this 
same deed is ready to testify in behalf of the citizens and can be found 
at the City Hall. This was in 1686 when the settlement was sixty years 
old. Real estate was cheap in those days, for the price paid was but 
jQzo. The second city to be incorporated in the Commonwealth, was 
Salem, in 1836, and an honorable name was that of its first mayor, Lev- 
erett Saltonstall. Thus have we proved Salem's claim to ancient lineage. 
The witchcraft delusion, which caused many to flee for their lives from 
Salem two centuries ago, now brings thousands of visitors every year ; 
yet there are few people so unenlightened nowadays as not to know that 
belief in witchcraft was world-wide at that period, that it was the time 
and not the place which caused the reign of terror. Salem ought not to 
be held responsible by intelligent persons for the breaking of this cloud 
over her head, though she does take credit to herself that the general jail 
delivery, which took place within her borders the following year, closed 
this chapter in her history and was the forerunner of the breaking up of 
the delusion throughout the civihzed world. The judges acted under 
English law and were appointed by the Provincial Governor and the major- 
ity of them who conducted the trials were not from Salem. The delusion 
was a frenzy, but it was, none the less, a fact ; relics of it may be found 
at the Court House where is preserved testimony from the trials, with 
the celebrated "Witch pins" produced in Court with which the pris- 
oners were accused of torturing their victims. Only one death warrant 
has been preserved, but it is the original document. For seven months 



4- YISITOR'S guide to SALEM. 

of the year 1692 did the proceedings rage and during that time nineteen 
supposed witches were hung, fourteen of them being women, while Giles 
Corey who would not plead was pressed to death for his contumacy. 

The atmosphere is clear enough now, and walking through the quiet 
streets of Salem to-day it is impossible to realize that the pathos and 
tragedy of two hundred years ago were in lives and not in story. Yet no 
tragedy of fiction appeals to the heart as do the simple records of those 
tried souls. 

The dwellings which most of the early Salemiles built for their families, 
were plain and 'prim, the chimney, large enough to accommodate a modern 
elevator, being the most prominent feature of the architecture, unless we 
except the remarkable parsimony of the builder as to land. Why, with 
a whole continent to use, the colonists placed their homes as snugly 
together as if they were modern Fifth Avenue residences, with generally 
never an inch to spare between the house and the roadway, is the specu- 
lation of many. Doubtless this was an imitation of the thickly settled 
English towns from which they came. The Narbonne House (71 Essex 
street) is an interesting specimen of the houses built before the witch- 
craft episode, for though plain, it has a distinctive flavor of the antique 
in its lines. The oldest house standing so far as known, is the Roger 
Williams House built before 1640, at the corner of Essex and North 
streets. Roger Williams was one of the early ministers of the First 
church, but the minister and magistrates not being harmonious, Williams 
it will be remembered fled to what was then the wilderness, now the 
placid little state of Rhode Island. If the stranger inquires for the 
''Witch House" he will be directed to this same dark scowling build- 
ing which is set back far enough from the sidewalk for a drug store to 
be put in front of one part of it. Unfortunately for those who love 
the mysterious, no witch ever played pranks under the roof and the only 
ground for the house being so named, is the tradition that some of the 



INTRODUCTORY. 5 

preliminary examinations took place there, being at that time the resi- 
dence of Justice Jonathan Corwin. Truth also compels the statement 
that the house has been altered since those historic days and this may 
not be the original roof at all. But if one would gaze upon a spot as 
genuinely connected with the witchcraft trials and not have his honest awe 
misplaced, let him look across the street to No. 315 Essex street, which, 
as the home of the dyer Shattuck, figured in the trial of Bridget Bishop. 
The First church as an organization and the First church as a struct- 
ure are as distinct as the body and the soul, and yet marvellous to tell, 
though separated, they both exist. The First-church organization we 
have said was established in 1629, though not until five years later, was 
the simple First- church edifice ready for worshippers. It is the historv 
of this edifice that we will follow first. The original site is owned and 
occupied by the society to-day, one of the most valuable corners in Sa- 
lem, the southeast corner of Essex and Washington streets. For thirty- 
six years it served its purpose, but when in 1670 a second church was 
built on the same land it was voted that the old one *'be reserved for the 
Town's use to build a skool and watch-house." The records prove that 
the town made use of the building for nearly a hundred years but in 1760 
the town having by this time found better quarters for itself, the venerable 
little house bent its elderly joints and took its way up to the premises of 
one Thorndike Proctor, a local magnate, and was set up on land that is 
now back of Boston street. Here it was used as a tavern or refreshment 
house, let us hope not a disreputable one. For another hundred years it 
lay dozing. But the interest for old time relics had begun, and the sleepy 
old church was waked up and through the liberality of the late Francis 
Peabody, its aged remains were conveyed to the Essex Institute where it 
can be seen. There is much new timber about it by way of covering 
for the old beams, but the beams are the identical ones hewn out by 
those brave settlers in 1634. Perhaps some generous friend will ofTer to 



6 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

have the interior reproduced as it was when the beams resounded with 
the long sermons of the 1 7th century. 

No city or town is quite complete without its house where Washington 
has passed the night. It was with Joshua Ward, Esq., at 148 Washington 
street, that the distinguished guest passed a night of 1789. 

The birthplace of Na^ianiel Hawthorne is a shrine to which pilgrims 
continually come to worship, and the devotee to genius must turn his 
steps to 21 Union street to view this plain frame house which was so un. 
conscious of its coming importance, when on July 4, 1804, his birth took 
place. This is no place to give a sketch of his life ; and indeed, the in- 
dividual, zealous enough to seek the house where Hawthorne first saw the 
light, needs no casual information of the man and his works. The Salem 
Custom House is the same decorous place of business now as it was when 
Hawthorne made entries and romances there, but its principal interest 
comes of its association with the "Scarlet Letter." "The House of Seven 
Gables" it is useless to search for, except within the covers of the fascinating 
book so named, for the author distinctly denied having any special house 
in mind, though several have been selected for the purpose by admiring 
readers, although the IngersoU house, 34 Turner St., holds the only real 
claim of connection with the life of the author of the romance. "The 
Grimshawe House" has an original at 53 Charter street, being the house 
where the father-in-law of the novelist lived. Several houses were, at one 
time or another, the home of Hawthorne, and detailed descriptions of 
them and of the sites made memorable in his writings will be found in a 
chapter of this Guide devoted to the purpose. There were many culti- 
vated and distinguished people living in Salem when Hawthorne did, but 
they did not know him, because his peculiar temperament, shy, morbid 
even at times, caused him to shun society ; his few chosen companions 
in his native city he may have consorted with either as quaint studies of 
human nature, or because they were congenial friends. 



INTRODUCTORY. 7 

Three distinct periods of house-building may be remarked as one walks 
Salem streets : the very old houses to which we have alluded ; the im- 
posing ijiansions about the Common, near the Essex Institute, and on 
Chestnut street which were built soon after this century was well on its 
way ; and entirely modern houses that we find in both North and South 
Salem, that regard the world with very young eyes. These recent arri- 
vals seem to have nothing in common with the old traditions of the 
place, and know of "Witch" or "Gallows" Hill only from hearsay, as 
does the visitor of to-day. From the Turnpike, after leaving Essex street 
and the street cars, can be seen on the right, this shambling hill, resting 
among the pastures. There the poor martyrs of 1692 were hung. They 
were called witches at that time, but we know better now and call them 
saints. 

Derby street, with its evidences of past wealth, leads to Derby Wharf, 
and beyond to Phillips, formerly India or Crowninshield's wharf. In 
decades past, these wharves were lined with ships which Salem merchants 
had sent to every part of the world. There were Eastern ports where 
the names of New York and Philadelphia were hardly known, but where 
Salem, of such small stature among her sisters, was supposed to be the 
greatest city of America. In 1825 there were one hundred and ninety- 
eight vessels owned in Salem, and it was her ships which were the first 
from this country to display the American flag and open trade with St. 
Petersburg, Zanzibar, Sumatra, Calcutta, Bombay, Batavia, Arabia, Mada- 
gascar and Australia. No one makes a Hving here now by spice brought 
from the Orient, and the merchant no longer waits in his counting room 
for ships to come in, but goes to Boston every day and waits for them 
there. Yet there come to Salem every year, and often in the hulls of 
once famous foreign-trading ships, now transformed into coal barges, more 
tons of freight than the great fleet of smaller vessels brought here in the 
past. 



1 



CHAPTER II. 

Points of Historical Interest. 

(©■ ^HERE are many places in Salem which the visitor will wish to see 
that are associated with the history of the city or the lives of distin- 
guished men who were born or resided here. The dwellings of 
the early colonists have mostly gone to dust but, of later periods, there 
are many interesting relics remaining. 

Oldest Streets. — House-lots were laid out shortly after the arrival of 
Endicott in 1628. Washington street was laid out four rods wide, con- 
necting the way that ran along the borders of the North and South 
rivers, and is the oldest street in Salem. Probably Essex street originally 
ran along the rear ends of lots fronting on each river, and the street was 
a natural result of a town- way that came gradually into use. Among 
others of the very early streets may be mentioned Daniels, Elm and 
Central streets, which led to ''town landings" on the South river. 

Noted Historical Sites. — On the ground now covered by the Asiatic 
Building, Washington street, and facing the South river stood the dwelling 
house of the Rev. Francis Higginson, "Teacher" of the First church 
1629-30. John Higginson, his son and successor, was buried in Governor 
Bradstreet's tomb in the Charter-street cemetery. The house of the Rev. 
Samuel Skelton, the first pastor of the First church (1630), was on land 
near the site of the police station, 1 1 Front street. On what is now the 
(8) 



POINTS OF HISTORICAL INTEREST. 9 

DuUthwest corner of Essex and Washington street, the site of Price Block, 
was the estate of the Rev. Hugh Peter, Pastor of the First church, 1 636-4 1 . 
Gov. Endicott's "Broadfield" was south of where Creek street now is. 
The location of the house of Governor Endicott has never been satis- 
factorily settled. It was "east of Washington street" and "south of the 
North River," possibly near where Federal street enters Washington 
from the east, A tradition exists to the effect that the house was moved 
about 1679 to ^ spot where is now the corner of Washington and Church 
streets. i\n old house on that spot was claimed a few years since as the 
Governor Endicott house. Small tack nails in a timber were thought to 
form the initials "I. E.," but on this point there has been much discus- 
sion. The building referred to has been moved back on Church street. 
Our best local antiquaries feel entirely satisfied that this house cannot 
have been Governor Endicott's but was the house of Daniel Eppes. 
Roger Conant's house is generally believed to have been on the site of 
the present Maynes Block, 202 Essex street, opposite the market and 
John Woodbury, another of the "Old Planters" lived above about where 
Browne block now stands. The fort, built by the early settlers, as a defence 
against Indian attacks, was at a point now the western corner of Sewall 
and Lynde streets, it being the highest ground in that portion of the city. 

John Winthrop landed in 1630, it is supposed, near the dike rock made 
interesting to science by Professor Hitchcock and figured in his report on 
the Geology of Massachusetts in 184 1. It is at the foot of Bridge street, 
on the western side of the Salem end of Essex bridge. The famous 
"Mayflower," in which the Pilgrims came to Plymouth in 1620, made 
voyages later to Salem and many of the settlers undoubtedly landed from 
her at about this point also. 

On the site of the house of the late Francis Peabody, next west of 
Plummer Hall, 136 Essex street, now the Armory of the Salem Cadets, 



10 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Stood the house of Emanuel Downing afterwards occupied by Simon 
Bradstreet. 

Tlie building now occupied by E. A. Tierney as a furniture warehouse, 
No. 205 Essex street, was the house of Dr. Edward Augustus Holyoke, 
who was the moving spirit in the organization of the Essex Historical So- 
ciety, and its first president. Dr. Holyoke lived to the age of 100 years, 
7 months. 

Over the main doorway of the building numbered six on Central street, 
may be seen a large wooden eagle that decorated the same entrance 
when the building was used as the Custom House. This was in 1805. 

Many old houses are to be found in various parts of the city. The 
house with a projecting second story at the foot of St. Peter street was 
built by John Ward, in. 1684 or a little later, on land which formerly be- 
longed to Christopher Waller. This has incorrectly been called the Wal- 
ler house, but Waller's house was near this and disappeared long ago. 
There is another house of similar style on the eastern side of Washington 
street, north of Federal. The Nar bonne house, 71 Essex street, was 
built prior to 1680 and is one of the best examples in the city of houses 
of that period. 

The private residence, 138 Federal street, was at one time a celebrated 
assembly hall. Here Lafayette was entertained in t 784, and Washington 
in 1789. 

A walk or drive through the older streets of the city will prove of much 
interest to the stranger. In a few cities are the old and new buildings 
so intermingled. Notable among these streets are Essex, Derby, High, 
Federal and many of the shorter streets in the lower part of the city. 

Many of the stately houses built during the first quarter of this century 
may be seen on Chestnut street, on Essex near Plummer Hall and around 
Washington square. Such houses as these were occupied by Salem mer- 




Ward House (showing 
Narbonne House (showing lean-to roofj. 



;i;ng second story). 



POINTS OF HISTORICAL INTEREST. 1 1 

chants in the days of her greatest commercial prosperity. South Salem is 
the newest part of the city. In this section, Lafayette street contains 
residences of the more modern character, built, most of them, within 
thirty years. One notable exception is the beautiful residence of the 
late E. Hersey Derby, at the corner of Ocean avenue. It was built about 
1800, and is a fine specimen of the suburban residence of a gentleman 
of wealth of that period. 

The old building on Boston street. No. 47, with an arched window in 
its front gable, and now used as a currying shop, was once the meeting 
house of the Orthodox and Congregational Society at Topsfield. It was 
built in 1769 on the site of the present church edifice at Topsfield, In 
1816 the spire being decayed it was taken down. The building was sold 
and removed to Salem in 1842-3. 

The Andrew House, 13 Washington square, erected by John Andrew 
in 18 18, and the favorite visiting place of Gov. John A. Andrew in his 
youth, was spoken of at the time of its completion as the largest and most 
costly private residence in New England. It is a fine specimen of the 
architecture of the early portion of this century. 

The Z. Silsbee house, or Boardman housg, at the corner of Washington 
square and Boardman street, which with the exception of a few modern 
additions, still preserves its original appearance, attracted the attention of 
Washington when visiting Salem in 1 789 by the beauty of its architectural 
proportions. 

The house standing at the rear of the low shops west of East India 
Marine Hall was built by Col. Benjamin Pickman in 1750. It was beau- 
tifully furnished and decorated. The Provincial Governor Pownall was 
entertained here Oct. 22, 1757 ; Count Castiglioni, June 23, 1784, and 
Alexander Hamilton, June 20, 1800. 

Roger Williams House. — This house is on the northwest corner of Es- 



12 VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM. 

sex and North streets, and is numbered 310 Essex street. It was owned 
in 1635-6 by Roger Williams, who was "teacher of the First church for 
a few months in 1631, again in 1633, and minister in 1634-5. Thus the 
people of Salem persistently sought Mr. Williams as teacher and pastor, 
but the General Court at Boston unseated the Salem deputies for the acts 
of their constituents in retaining him, and finally the magistrates sent a 
vessel to Salem to remove Mr. Williams to England, but he anticipated 
them by fleeing through wintry snows into the wilderness, to become the 
founder of the State of Rhode Island. The house here referred to is fa- 
miliarly called the "Old Witch House," from the fact that a tradition ex- 
ists that preliminary examinations of those charged with witchcraft, in 
1692, were held in one of its rooms. The house was occupied at that 
time by Jonathan Corwin, one of the judges in the witchcraft trials. This 
is the oldest house in Salem or this vicintiy. Visitors are admitted on 
application at the apothecary store adjoining the house. A drawing of 
the house as it was in its early days may be seen at the Essex Institute. 

Birthplace OF Timothy Pickering. — One's comprehension of quaint 
architecture demands that beauty shall be evident, and Salem, therefore, 
points with considerable pride to the Pickering house. It is on Broad 
street, just above Cambridge. It was built in 1649-5 ^ by John Pickering, 
and is really charming to see, and quite the ideal house where one name 
under one roof has existed for generations. This house, very unlike its 
contemporaries, stands proudly aloof from neighbors, though at ease with 
itself, in the midst of a large garden which might be even denominated as 
"grounds," so unusual is this manner of building in our compact little 
city. An English cottage rooted firmly in New England soil, its many 
gables and quaint windows make it worthy of study. Timothy Picker- 
ing was the illustrious member of the family, and among the distinguished 
men of Revolutionary times as a colonel and adjutant general. He was 



POINTS OF HISTORICAL INTEREST. 1 3 

prominent among the doughty men who held the North bridge. He 
fought at the battles of Germantown and Brandywine ; while as statesman 
he held the offices of representative and senator, and in Washington's cab- 
inet of postmaster-general, secretary of war and secretary of state. The 
homestead is now occupied by a John Pickering, direcUy descended from 
the ancestor who built it, and is in exquisite repair, and consistently fitted 
up with ancient furniture and family portraits. Colonel Pickering's death 
took place-Jan. 29, 1829, in the home numbered 29 Warren street, where 
he was then residing. This house is now the home of Judge Brigham, 
formerly Chief Justice of the Superior Court of Massachusetts. 

Nathaniel Bowditch was born March 26, 1773, in a house formerly 
numbered 14 Brown street but which is now in the rear of its former site 
on Kimball court. Rev. Samuel Johnson, a noted liberal preacher, the 
eminent author of ''Oriental Religions," was also born in this house. Dr. 
Bowditch lived during the last years of his residence in Salem in the house 
now numbered 312 Essex street. 

Benjamin Thompson, afterwards Count Rumford, was born in Woburn 
in 1753. He moved to Salem and was a clerk in the dry goods store of 
John Appleton in 1766, which was kept in a building now the dwelling 
house number 314 Essex street. There is a bill from this store receipted 
with his signature preserved at the Essex Institute. After serving in the 
British army during the latter part of the Revolutionary War, he went to 
Bavaria and in time became commander-in-chief of the Bavarian army 
and was made Count Rumford. He was eminent in science and as an 
author as well. A statue to his memory ornaments one of the avenues 
in the city of Munich. Rumford ovens, invented by him, are to be found 
in many of the larger of the old Salem houses where even now they are 
sometimes used. 

William Hickling Prescott, D.C.L., the historian, author of "Con- 



14 VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM. 

quest of Mexico," and "Philip Second," was born in the house standing 
on the site now occupied by Plummer Hall, pictures of which rnay be 
seen at the Essex Institute. This house was built by Nathan Read who 
studied medicine with Dr. Holyoke and kept a store in Salem, and who 
in 1789 successfully tested a paddle wheel steamboat in the waters of 
the Danvers and North rivers, starting from the mills in Danvers. On 
board were John Hancock, then governor, Nathan Dane and Rev. Dr. 
Prince and Dr. Holyoke of Salem. Nathan Read also built the fine 
country house known as the Porter Farm at Danversport. 

Benjamin Pierce was born in the house in the "Tontine Block" num- 
bered 35 Warren street. Professor of mathematics in Harvard college, 
he was among the most eminent men in his special work not only in this 
country but in the world. 

John Pickering, LL.D., the Greek lexicographer, born in Salem in 
1777, lived in the house number 18 Chestnut street, having previously 
built a larger house on the opposite side of the same street. He died 
in Boston in 1846. 

Joseph E. Worcester, compiler of the Worcester dictionary, kept a 
school in a building on the hill west of the Federal-street Baptist church. 
He was one of the instructors of Nathaniel Hawthorne. 

Miss Caroline Plummer, the founder by will of the Plummer Farm 
School and the donor likewise of the fund from which Plummer Hall 
was built, lived in a fine gambrel roofed house on the site of the Public 
Library. Miss Plummer's grave is in the Broad street cemetery. 

Benjamin Lynde, Chief Justice of the Superior Court of Massachusetts 
Bay 1 729-1 749, and his son bearing the same name and holding the 
same office from 1769 until 17 71, and Judge Andrew OUver, son of Lieu- 
tenant Governor Oliver, in turn occupied the house which stood on the 
present site of Lynde Block on Essex street, at the corner of Liberty. 




Miles Ward House (showing ganibrel roof and porclij. 

Cabot Hou.se (showing gannbrel roof about 1748) 



POINTS OF HISTORICAL INTEREST. 1 5 

The Provincial Governor Belcher was the guest of Benj. Lynde, jr., Feb. 
28, 1739. 

Judge Joseph Story resided in the brick house which he built, num- 
ber 26 Winter street. Here William W. Story, the noted author and 
sculptor, was born Feb. 12, 1819. Gen. Lafayette was entertained in 
this house by Judge Story in 1824. 

RuFUS Choate, the eminent lawyer and statesman, while living in 
Salem, occupied the house number 14 Lynde street. 

Benjamin Goodhue, U. S. Senator from 1796 to 1800, occupied the 
house number 403 Essex street. He was born Oct. i, 1748. 

Nathaniel Silsbee, U. S. Senator from 1826 to 1835, ^'^^ ^^o™ i*"^ ^he 
ancient house on Daniels street, number 23, below Derby. In after life 
he built and lived in the large brick mansion, 94 Washington square, 
which, however, has since then been much altered and modernized. In 
this house Daniel Webster, Henry Clay and other distinguished persons 
have been entertained, 

William Gray was born in Lynn in 1760. He came to Salem at an 
early age and became one of the greatest merchants and ship owners 
here. His counting room was primitive in the extreme and is interest- 
ing in comparison with the offices of the merchants of the present day. 
It was in the large warehouse number 195 Derby St., now occupied by 
Messrs. J. P. Langmaid & Sons. William Gray was Lt.-Governor of 
Massachusetts in 1810-11. He died in Boston in 1825. In 1800 he 
built the present Essex House, 176 Essex St., for his private residence 
and which after his removal from Salem became a hotel. It was called 
the Essex Coffee House in 18 14, and still goes by that name among some 
of the old residents. When Lafayette came to Salem in 1824, the house 
was called the Lafayette Coffee House, in his honor, but only for a short 
time. Taverns have occupied sites in this neigliborhood from the time 



1 6 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

of the very earliest history of Salem. In the office of the Essex House 
are a fine old fireplace and mahtel. 

Benjamin W. Crowninshield, Representative in Congress, U. S. Sen- 
ator and Secretary of the Navy under President Madison from 1814 to 
1818, built and occupied the mansion 114 Derby street, at present the 
Old Ladies' Home. Here President Monroe was entertained at dinner on 
July 9, 181 7, when Commodores Bainbridge and Perry were also guests. 

William C. Endicott, Judge of the Supreme Court of Massachusetts 
and Secretary of War in President Cleveland's cabinet, resides in the fine 
colonial mansion, number 365 Essex street. This house was built by 
Joseph Cabot in 1748. The interesting old weather-darkened house 
above (371 Essjex street), on the same estate, was built by Jeffi-ey Lang 
in 1 740. Judge Endicott was born in the Crowninshield house on Derby 
street last mentioned. 

George B. Loring, Member of Congress, and Commissioner of Agri- 
culture under Presidents Garfield and Arthur, resided in the house, now 
much altered, number 328 Essex street; his summer home was the Pick- 
man Farm about three miles from Salem on Loring avenue. 

John Rogers, whose small character "groups" are familiar everywhere, 
was born Oct. 30,- 1829, in the house on the southern corner of W'ash- 
ington and Lynde streets. John P. Derby, while Lieutenant of Engineer 
Corps, U. S. A., and who, under the name of "John Phoenix," attained 
celebrity as a humorous writer, was also born in this house. The house 
itself is of much interest and beauty and well illustrates the style of archi- 
tecture prevailing just before the Revolutionary war. It was built in 
1764, by the Hon. Benjamin Pickman. In one of the Winds on a win- 
dow of the cupola is a space left, through which a spy glass could be 
used to watch for in-coming ships. The eagle on the top of the cupola 
is, like several others in Salem, the work of Macintire. 



POINTS OF HISTORICAL INTEREST. t^ 

This house was occupied by Elias Haskett Derby during the years of 
his greatest commercial activity, and untfl a few months before his death, 
when he removed to his new and elegant mansion on the present market 
house site which cost ^90,000 and was taken down sixteen years later to 
give place to the market and Town Hall. 

The Statue of Rev. Theobald Mathew, the apostle of temperance, 
who visited Salem, Sept. 19, 1849, ^^^^ erected on Central street, and 
dedicated October, 1887. By a singular coincidence, it was placed on 
the spot where flowed a spring from which the early settlers of Salem ob- 
tained water. 

First Provincial Congress. — In Salem, on October 5, 1774, assem- 
bled the First Provincial Congress, which passed during its session a vote 
renouncing the authority of the British parliament, — the first official act 
of the Province putting itself in open opposition to the home govern- 
ment. The building thus made famous stood in Town House Square, but 
unfortunately no picture of it is known to exist. A tablet on the north- 
west corner of the First Church recording the events of the time is in- 
scribed as follows : 

Three rods west of this spot 

stood from 1718 until 1785, 

THE TOWN HOUSE. 

Here Governor Burnp:t convened 

the general court in 1728 and 1729. 

A town meeting held here in 1765 

protested against the stamp act, 

and another, in 1769, 

denounced the tax on tea. 



i^ Visitor's guide tO salem. 

Here met, in 1774, the last general assembly 

OF THE Province of the Massachusetts Bay, 

WHICH, June 17, in defiance of Governor Gagf, 

CHOSE delegates TO 

THE FIRST CONTINENTAL CONGRESS. 
The house of assembly was thereupon dissolved, 

AND the election OF A NEW HOUSE, TO MEET AT SaLEM, 
was ORDERED BY THE GOVERNOR, BUT THIS, 

by later proclamation he refused to recognize. 
In contempt of his authority the members met 

IN THIS TOWN house, OcTOBER 5, 
AND AFTER ORGANIZING RESOLVED THEMSELVES INTO 

A PROVINCIAL CONGRESS, 

AND ADJOURNED TO CoNCORD, 
THERE TO ACT WITH OTHER DELEGATES AS 

THE First Provincial Congress of Massachusetts. 

The North Bridge : first armed resistance to British authority. — 
The North bridge is on North street, just beyond the intersection of Bridge 
street. Here, on Sunday, Feb. 26, 1 775, the townspeople assembled, and 
forbade the farther advance of Col. Leslie and a body of the King's Reg- 
ulars, who had landed at Marblehead and marched to Salem in search of 
cannon believed to be concealed in "North Fields." This was the first 
opposition to the military authority of Great Britain. One of the crowd is 
said to have received a bayonet wound from a British soldier. A memo- 



POINTS OF HISTORICAL INTEREST. 1 9 

iImI tablet of bronze inserted in an upright block of granite was placed at 
the North Bridge in 1887 by the city authorities. It bears this inscription : 

In the 
REVOLUTION 

THE FIRST 

ARMED RESISTANCE 

TO THE 

Royal Authority 

was made at this 

BRIDGE 

26 Feb., 1775, 

By the people of 

SALEM. 

The advance of 300 British 

Troops led by Lt. Col. Leslie 

AND SENT BY GeN. GaGE TO SEIZE 
MUNITIONS OF WAR, WAS HERE 

ARRESTED. 

The militia were under the command of Col. Timothy Pickering, but 
several other Salem citizens were prominent in the affair. Rev, Thomas 
Barnard, pastor of the North Church, who acted the part of peacemaker, 
lived in the large gambrel-roofed house number 393 Essex street, now 
standing among noble elms and buttonwoods. Robert Foster had his shop 
just beyond the bridge where the cannon were being put in order. James 
Barr, who scuttled his "gundalow" to prevent the British troops from cross- 



20 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

ing the river in it, lived in the house now number 25 Lynde street. Capt. 
David Mason, who shouted the alarm at the door of the North Church, 
lived near by. Capt. John Felt, who warned Colonel Leslie of the deter- 
mined intention of resistance on the part of the volunteers, lived in a 
house on Lynde street, since moved to Federal street and numbered 47. 
• It is supposed to have been near the North Bridge that Governor Win- 
throl^'s son, Henry, was drowned July 2, 1630. He had arrived in the 
ship "Talbot," July i, and was crossing the North River on the following 
day to visit an Indian settlement, when he was drowned. 

During the Revolutionary War, Salem furnished large numbers of men 
to fill the ranks of the army, and fitted out at least 158 vessels as priva- 
teers. 

In the war of 181 2, forty armed vessels of the 250 furnished by the 
whole country were from Salem. The celebrated naval battle between 
the "Chesapeake" and "Shannon" was fought so near the shore that it 
was witnessed by many from the higher hills of Salem and this neighbor- 
hood. This was on June i, 1S13. On the twenty-third of August, the 
bodies of Captain Lawrence and Lieutenant Ludlow of the "Chesapeake," 
who were killed in the engagement, were brought to Salem, and landed 
at India (now Phillips) wharf, thence taken to the Howard street church 
(since removed ; site of Prescott school house, Howard St.), where the 
funeral was held. 

During the war of 186 1-5, more than 3000 men entered the Union 
service from this city, and more than 200 were killed. Among her he- 
roes were Brig. Gen. Frederick W. Lander, Lt. Col. Henry Merritt, Lt. 
Col. John Hodges, Major Seth S. Buxton, Capts. George W. Batchelder, 
Charles A. Dearborn, John Saunders, Lts. Chas. G. Ward, Pickering D. 
Allen and Charles F. Williams, all of whom lost their lives in the service 
of their country. 



POINTS OF HISTORICAL INTEREST. 21 

, President Washington entered Salem Oct. 29, 1 789, by the road which 
is now Lafayette street, passed through High and Broad streets, across to 
Federal and down to the Court House on Washington street, where he 
was presented to the citizens from the balcony by Abijah Northey. He 
called during the evening at the house of Major Saunders, and on Stephen 
Abbott, on County street, now (number 21) Federal. He passed the 
night at the residence of Joshua Ward, now 148 Washington street, in 
the room in the second story behind the ivy-covered wall. Washington 
left Salem for Beverly and eastward the following day. 

President John Adams frequently visited Salem, unofficially, stopping 
with his "brother Cranch" who lived in the old house on Mill street, just 
beyond the corner of Norman. Describing the house, which is still stand- 
ing, Mr. Adams writes in his journal while visiting there, Nov. 3, 1766, 
"Cranch is now in a good situation for business near the Court House 
. . . his house, fronting on the wharv^es, the harbor and the shipping, 
has a fine prospect before it." "Brother Cranch's" son William became 
tlie celebrated Judge Cranch of the U. S.-Supreme Court in 1805. 

President Monroe arrived in Salem on the ninth of July, 181 7. He 
stopped at the house of Hon. Benj. W. Crowninshield, now the Old La- 
dies'. Home, on Derby street. Pie was given a reception at the then new 
Town Hall and was entertained at lunch by Hon. Nathaniel Silsbee at 
94 Washington square. On the evening of the tenth he attended a bril- 
liant assembly at the residence of Judge Story, number 26 Winter street, 
and on the eleventh a party was given for him at the residence of Hon. 
Stephen White at 31 Washington square. All of these houses are stand- 
ing. President Monroe left Salem on the twelfth. 

President John Quincy Adams visited Salem on several occasions. 
He was present at the dinner and made an address at the dedication of 
East India Marine Hall, Oct. 14, 1825. 



2 2 , VISITORS GUIDP: TO SALEM. 

President Jackson visited Salem June 26, 1833, and passed the night 
at the Mansion House which was placed at his disposal by its owner Capt. 
Nathaniel West. This house was on Essex street, opposite Central. On 
the following day he visited the museum of the East India Marine Soci- 
ety and other points of interest. 

President Polk passed through Salem on July 5, 1847, during a poin- 
ing rain, but did not leave his carriage to visit places of interest. 

President Grant passed through Salem, Oct. 17, 1871, and briefly 
addressed the citizens at the railroad station, and President Arthur 
made a short stop here on Sept. 8, 1882, coming from Marblehead. He 
visited the museum oi" the Peabody Academy, and the Essex Institute 
and drove back to Marblehead and to the Neck, where he was enter- 
tained having landed from .the U. S. steamer ^'Despatch" while on a 
cruise in eastern waters. 

General Lafayeite visited Salem Oct. 29, 1784, was entertained 
at a public dinner and in the evening he attended a large ball in the As- 
sembly Hall on Federal street.* He was in Salem, again, Aug. 31, 1824, 
when he was accorded a grand reception by sailors at the hill on Lafay- 
ette street and by the school children on the common. He was enter- 
tained by Judge Story at 26 Winter street. 

Jonathan Haraden, the indomitable commander of the Revolutionary 
privateer "Gen. Pickering," lived in the house opposite the Salem Hos- 
pital, since altered to a double tenement and now numbered 32 and 34 
on Charter St. 

Gen. James Milj.er, the hero of "Lundy's Lane" and celebrated for 
the motto "I'll try, Sir," lived in the western side of the Crowninshield 
house on Derby street, now the Old Ladies' Home. He was Collector 
of the Port of Salem from 1CS25 to 1849. 

Gen. Frederick Lander, a brave officer whose life was sacrificed early 
in the war of the rebellion, was born in the house number 5 Barton square. 




Qaliows Hill. 



Stiattuek Homse. 



POINTS OF HISTORICAL INTEREST. 23 

Gen. Frederick T. Ward, born 183 1-2, lived in the house at the east- 
ern corner of Derby and Carlton streets. His life was a romantic and 
adventurous one. He obtained his tide by organizing and drilling Chi- 
nese troops which, under his leadership, gained so many victories during 
the Tai Ping rebellion that it was known as the ''ever victorious army." 
After his death the English General Gordon was appointed to succeed him. 

Witchcraft Sites in Salem. The personal memorials of the witch- 
craft delusion must, of course, be looked for chiefly in the town of Dan- 
vers (Salem Village, 1692 :now Danvers Centre, Danvers Plains, and por- 
tions of Peabody, Beverly, Middleton and Topsfield), where most of the 
personages connected with the events of that time lived. In Salem, how- 
ever, are the official reminders of the delusion for here the court appointed 
by the Provincial Governor, Phips, who had himself but just received 
office from the Crown, held the trials and here, too, the executions or- 
dered by that court took place and such records of that court as still re- 
main are preserved. Few buildings in Salem to-day can trace their hist- 
ory back to a connection with the events of 1692 and the list of sites 
given here which are made memorable by those events must be visited 
from sentimental feeling rather than with the expectation of obtaining a 
l)icture of the past. Such buildings and other objects as still ])Ossess 
a direct connection with the witchcraft times are specially noticed. 

The Meeting House, where the examination before Deputy Governur 
Danforth and others of the council took place, was the First Church (a 
building removed in 1718) the site of which is occupied by the present 
church edifice at the corner of Essex and Washington streets. These 
examinations were made April 11, 1692, after others had been held in 
the smaller meeting-house at Salem Village (now Danvers Centre) by the 
local magistrates Corwin and Hathorne. This assumption of authority 
by the government (Upham 11, p. 113), changed the character of the 



24 VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM. 

whole matter '"before it had been a Salem affair. Now it was a Massa- 
chusetts affair." 

The Court House in which the trials subsequently took place by the 
special court appointed by the governor, was in Washington street, at a 
point opposite the bronze tablet which will be found near the corner of 
A'Vashington and Lynde streets, and which fully records the fact as fol- 
lows : — 

NEAiriA OPPOSITE THIS SPOT 

stool), in the middle of the street, 

a bl ilding devoted, from 1677 until 1 7 1 s, 

to municipal and jlidicial uses. 

In it, in 1692, 

wel'e tried and <;ondkmned fok' witchcraft 

:\iost of the nineteen person? 

who suffered death on the (rallows. 

GILES COREY was here put to tkmal 

ON THE same CHAR(iE, AND, REFITSING TO PLEAD, 

was taken away and pressed to death. 
In January, 1693, tw^enty-one persons 

were tried here for witchcraft, 

of whom eighteen were acquitted and 

three condemned, but later set free, 

together with about 150 accused persons, 

in a general delivery which occurred in may. 

Giles Corey, after pleading "not guilty," refused to "i)ut himself upon 










m' 



POINTS OF HISTORICAL INTEREST. 



25 



his country," and therefore could not be tried by jury, and for this he 
was pressed to death. 

The Documents including the one death warrant remaining, that of 
Bridget Bishop, with the record of her execution, and the pins said to 
have been used by the accused persons to inflict torture upon their victims, 
will be found in the new court house in the room of the clerk of the 
Court, on the lower floor. 

The Jail was near St. Peter street, and the house, number 4 Federal 
street, is supposed to contain a portion of the original frame of the build- 
ing, which was of wood. The great '-jail delivery" was in May, 1693. 

The Route to "Gallows Hill," by which the prisoners were taken to 
execution "in a cart," was from the jail through St. Peter, Essex and 
Boston, nearly to Aborn streets, thence, turning back in order to ascend 
the least precipitous slope of the hill, to the highest point at its southern 
end, now approached almost in a direct line from Boston street through 
Hanson. Here nineteen persons were hanged. A movement is being 
made, under the auspices of the Essex Institute, to place upon the sum- 
mit of this hill a suitable monument to the memory of those whose mar- 
tyrdom took place there and to commemorate, also, the general jail de- 
livery in 1693, the forerunner of the breaking away from tlie delusion 
throughout the world. 

Nicholas Noyes, the minister of the First Church, lived in a house west 
of the court house, or where the recording tablet is now placed on Wash- 
ington street. 

George Corwin, the high sheriff, lived in a house on the site of the 
Joshua Ward house, 148 Washington street. 

Judge Jonathan Corwin's House was the "Witch House," or more ap- 
propriately and pleasantly remembered as Roger Williams' house (of which 
see account) at the corner of Essex and North streets. The interior and 



26 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

chimney are in much the same state as at the time when it was occupied 
by the Judge. 

The site of Judge Gedney's House is in doubt, but it is probable 
that it was the so-called ''French House," once used as the custom house, 
and which stood near the present Gedney court, on Summer street. 

Thomas Beadle's Tavern was opposite Pleasant street, on Essex. 
Some examinations of persons accused of witchcraft took place here. 

Samuel Beadle's Tavern was near the jail and stood at a point now 
the southern corner of Church and St. Peter streets. Entertainment for 
man and beast was here found by those connected with the trials. 

The Ship Tavern, known as "Widow Gedney's," was opposite Central 
street, on Essex. 

Robinson's Tavern was on the eastern corner of Pleasant and Essex 
streets. It was near here, on the way to his home (on Daniels street) late 
at night, evidendy under the influence of Samuel Beadle's liquor, that 
Westgate saw the strange things he afterward testified to in court. 

Philip English's house was at the eastern corner of Essex and English 
streets. The house was destroyed in May, 1833, the cellar still showing 
as a depression. It is said that the house contained a secret chamber, 
made at the time of the witchcraft delusion, in which the inmates might 
hide from officers of the court. 

Edward Bishop and his wife, Bridget, lived in a house on the lot at 
the southern corner of Church and Washington streets, and extending to 
the present Lyceum Hall. It was here that the "puppets" were said to 
have been found. 

Samuel Shattuck, the dyer, whose child was said to have been be- 
witched by Bridget, lived in the old house still in about its original con- 
dition, opposite the North church on Essex street, number 315. Cook 
and Bly, who testified against her, lived in the houses east of this, the last- 
named in a house facing on Summer street. 



POINTS OF HISTORICAL INTEREST. 



27 



William Stacey's horse and cart came to grief, it was said on account 
of Bridget's witchery, on Summer street, near the large elm tree by the 
corner of Norman. 

Ann Pudeator lived north of the Common, between Oliver and Win- 
ter streets, in a house on the site of the brick residence numbered 35 
Washington square. 

Sarah Ingersoll and others, who gave testimony against some of the 
victims, lived near Daniels street. 

Giles Corey was pressed to death, it is thought, in a field now the site 
of the Prescott school house on Howard street. His homestead in Sa- 
lem, where he lived prior to his removal to the farm in the present sec- 
tion of West Peabody, was very near the building, number 46 Boston 
street. 

Hon. C. W. Upham, the historian and author of Salem Witchcraft lived 
for years in a house on the site of the Bishop residence, on Washington 
street, and later at 313 Essex street, among the sites of the houses of 
Bridget Bishop's accusers. 



CHAPTER III. 

Public Buildhigs. 

TO the visitor interested in educational matters, the schools of 
Salem will prove worthy of attention. The State Normal School 
for girls is at the corner of Summer and Broad streets. It is a 
large building of brick with freestone trimmings. It was dedicated 
Sept. 14, 1854. It is supplied with a nne set of scientific and chemical 
apparatus, including a telescope of fair power. Its Hbrary contains upwards 
of 9000 volumes. Tuition is free to those who agree to become teachers 
in the public schools. For the assistance of those who find even the mod- 
erate expense burdensome, the state makes an annual appropriation, one- 
half of which is distributed at the close of each term among the pupils from 
within the Commonwealth who merit and need aid. Permission to at- 
tend any of the exercises of the school can only be obtained by applying 
to the principal. Connected with the parishes of the St. James, Immac- 
ulate Conception and St. Joseph's are well equipped parochial schools, 
the new building on Harbor street for the St. Joseph's being one of the 
largest of the buildings in the city used for school purposes. The indus- 
trial school, lately established through the generosity of a prominent 
citizen, Mr. James B. Curwen, is located in a brick building in the rear 
of Kinsman block and the rudiments of mechanical draughting, carpenter- 
ing, etc., are taught there. At the Phillips school will be seen an at- 
(28) 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 29 

tempt to introduce decoration of the wall space of the school rooms in 
a manner which shall be both artistic and educational. A free kinder- 
garten is conducted at the rooms of the Woman's Bureau on Elm street 
and there are in the city other kindergarten and private schools of higher 
grade, principally for young children and girls, the location of which can 
be found in the Naumkeag directory. 

Public School Houses : — 

State Normal, Broad, corner of Summer. 

High, built 1856, Broad, opposite Cambridge. 

Oliver (Primary), Broad, next High School. 

Bowditch, built 1870 (grammar), Fhnt, near Essex. 

Lincoln (primary). Fowler street, 

Endicott (primary) , Boston, above Great Tree. 

Phillips, built 1863 (boys' grammar), Washington square. 

Bentley, built 1861 (girl's grammar and primary), Essex, opp. Bentley. 

Lynde (primary), Herbert street. 

Prescott (primary), Howard street. 

Carlton (primary). Skerry street. 

Brown (primary, including Naumkeag), Ropes street. 

Bertram (primary). Willow avenue. 

Saltonstall, built 1874 (grammar), Holly street. 

Pickering, built 1862 (primary), School street. 

Pickering (new), built 1893 (grammar), North street. 

Upham (primary), North, above Mason. 

Pickman (primary), Dunlap street. 

A. A. Low (primary), built 1893, Nichols and Prospect streets. 

Churches. — (The numbers in the list before the names refer to the 
order of arrangement in the following account of the churches :) 



30 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

1. First (Unitarian), Essex, corner of Washington. 

2. East (Unitarian), Washington square. 

4. North (Unitarian), Essex, above North. 

6. Barton Square (Unitarian), Essex, corner of Barton square. 

8. Friends, Pine, corner of Warren. 

9. St. Peter's (Episcopal), St. Peter, corner of Brown. 

10. Grace (Episcopal), Essex, below Flint. 

3. Tabernacle (Orthodox), Washington, corner of Federal. 

5. South (Orthodox), Chestnut, corner of Cambridge. 

7. Crombie Street (Orthodox), Crombie street. 

11. First Baptist, Federal, below North. 

12. Central Baptist, St. Peter, opposite Federal. 

13. Calvary Baptist, Essex, corner of Herbert. 

14. Universalist, Rust, below Federal. 

15. Immaculate Conception (Roman Catholic), Walnut, opposite 

Charter. 

16. St. James (Roman Catholic), Federal, above Flint. 

17. St. Joseph's (Roman Catholic ; French), Lafayette, above Harbor. 

18. Lafayette Street (Methodist Episcopal), Lafayette street, corner 

of Harbor. 

19. Wesley (Methodist Episcopal), North, near Essex. 

20. New Jerusalem (Swedenborgian), Essex, above Cambridge. 

21. Advent, 127 North street. 

22. Marine Society Bethel, foot of Turner. 

I. The First Church (Unitarian) was organized in 1629. The 
present structure at the corner of Essex and Washington streets, the 
fourth church edifice of the society, was built in 1826 and remodelled in 
1875. (The original frame of the first Puritan meeting-house is preserved 
at the Essex Institute, which see.) This society has occupied the present 
site since the erection of the first house of worship in 1634 and the mem- 




North Chureh. 



SoiAtli Chiureh. 
"Wesley Church. 



St. Peter's Church. 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 3 1 

ory of many historical events clusters about the spot. Two inscribed 
marble slabs at the head of the stairway leading to the second floor, 
where religious services are held, give the history of the church, the 
names of its pastors and their terms of service. 

A bronze tablet has been placed on the wall at the northeast corner of 
the church which is inscribed as follows : 

Here stood from 1634 until 1673 
THE FIRST MEETING HOUSE 

ERECTED IN SaLEM. 

no structure v/as built earlier 
for congregational worship 
by a church formed in america. 
It was occupied 
for secular as well as religious uses. 

In it PREACHED, IN SUCCESSION, 

I— ROGER WILLIAMS : II— HUGH PETERS : 
III -EDWARD NORRIS: IV— JOHN HIGGINSON. 

It WAS ENLARGED IN 1 639, AND 

was last used for worship in 1670. 

■ The First Church in Salem, 
gathered, july and august, 1 6 29, 
has had no place of worship but this spot. 

Less than thirty years ago this society used an organ inscribed in 
large letters on two plates upon its front, "J^lin Avery, London, Fecit, 
1800." This, in old times, was considered a very fine organ. The one 



32 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

now in use was built by Hutchings, Plaisted & Co. in 1875 and, although 
not large, is a well voiced instrument. The society possesses many in- 
teresting relics of the past, including the original early records and several 
pieces of old silver used in the communion service, but, unfortunately, 
several of the oldest and most interesting were melted down in 1 815 and 
made into a basin. Among those now preserved are five cups, the gift of 
William Browne, a cup from Sarah Higginson in 1720, one from Mary 
Walcott in 1729 and a flagon from Samuel Browne in 1731. 

2. The East Church (Unitarian), or Second Church as it was formerly 
called, was organized in 17 18 by a separation from the First church, the 
present edifice of freestone being built in 1846. Rich^d Upjohn the 
architect was born in England in 1802 and came to America in 1829. 
He built a cathedral at Bangor, Maine, and Trinity, St. Thomas and 
Grace churches in New York City where he died in 1878. The old 
wooden meeting-house previously occupied by the society on Essex at 
the corner of Hardy street was made famous by Dr. William Bentley, the 
historian and scholar, who preached there from 1783 until 18 19 and who 
lived in the house still standing, number 106 Essex street. The bell 
formerly on the old house rings daily from the tower of the Bentley 
school house on Essex street, arid the rooster which lifts his head and 
officiates over the winds above it was from the same church and, if tra- 
dition may be relied upon, still contains, sealed up in his capacious 
crop, old hymn books and some of Dr. Bentley's sermons. The bell 
as the inscription upon it states, was cast by "Revere and sons, Boston, 
1 80 1." It is a very interesting relic, for one of Paul Revere's bells is a 
prize for any city to own. The society possesses many interesting com- 
munion cups and other gifts of its early members. The present attrac- 
tive edifice has recently been placed in thorough repair, its gothic deco- 
rations making it one of the finest church interiors in the city. 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 33 

3. T]ie Tabernacle Church (Orthodox Congregational), separated 
from the First church in 1735 ^"^> i^ ^^^^ ^^^^ by warm adherents 
claimed for many years to be the First church itself. The society oc- 
cupied buildings on Essex street and on the present site and built the 
structure it now occupies in 1854. The large organ built by Woodberry 
and Harris is one of the finest in the city. The spire of this church, 
which is 180 feet high, was, until the erection of the new St. James 
church on Federal street, considered to be the loftiest in Salem. Salem 
was the first port from which missionaries sailed for Calcutta. This was 
in 181 2. Some of the early meetings in the mission cause were held in 
a room of the house now numbered t6 Lynde street, which was then the 
residence of Walter Price Bartlett. On February 6, 181 2, five persons 
were consecrated to the mission work at the Tabernacle church, not the 
present building, but one on the same spot, on the corner of Washing- 
ton and Federal streets. In the vestry of the present church there is 
preserved, besides the study chair of the Rev. Dr. Worcester, an old 
pastor of the church, a settee, with an inscribed plate on it telling us : 
"Upon this seat Rev. Messrs. Newell, Judson, Nott, Hall and Rice sat 
in the Tabernacle church, Salem, Feb. 6, 18 12, when ordained to the 
work of the Gospel Ministry as missionaries to the Heathen in Asia." 
The church also owns some old and interesting pieces of plate. 

4. The North Church (Unitarian) was formed by a separation from the 
First church in 1770, the first meetinghouse being built in 1772 on 
North, at the corner of Lynde street, the present site of the residence 
of Dr. C. A. Carlton. Here Dr. Thomas Barnard preached on the event- 
ful Sunday the British troops under Col. Leslie passed the door on their 
way to the North Bridge, when that worthy peacemaker left his pulpit 
and hastened to the scene of the disturbance to urge, successfully, the 
avoidance of bloodshed. The present beautiful edifice on Essex street 



34 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

just above North, vine-clad in summer and retired behind lofty elms, was 
built in 1835, G. J. F. Bryant being the architect, and some interior or- 
namentation added in 1848. It is after the style of an old English par- 
ish church and the excellent gothic interior finish and high-backed pews 
correspond well with this idea. In the church are tablets to the memory 
of Revs. Thomas Barnard, John Emery Abbot and John Brazer, minis- 
ters of the church and, in the minister's room, a memorial gift of a mem- 
ber of the church, is another tablet inscribed to the memory of the 
donor's wife. The church was built largely under the supervision of the 
late Francis Peabody whose love of the beautiful in architecture has left 
a good influence in Salem in many ways. The organ, built by Hook 
and Hastings is an exceedingly fine instrument and the society has many 
interesting cups and vessels used in the communion service which date 
from the organization of the church. An elegant stained glass window , 
by Mr. John La Farge of New York city, was placed in the church in 
1892. It is inscribed '^Tn memory of Francis and Martha Peabody By Their 
Children." The principal features are the full length figures of Faith and 
Charity. On week days, entrance may be obtained to the church at 
precisely one o'clock during the time of ringing the ''one o'clock bell." 
5. The South Church (Orthodox Congregational) separated from the 
Third or Tabernacle church in 1774, and occupied an Assembly hall on 
Cambridge street, the site of the present vestry of the society, until the 
large wooden church edifice was built in 1804. The spire of this church 
was blown down by the great September gale of the same year and the 
present beautiful spire replaced it. It was designed by Samuel Macin- 
tire and is considered one of the best works of that noted home archi- 
tect. This is, therefore, the oldest church edifice in the city and, except 
for interior alterations, remains unchanged since built. It was entirely ren- 
ovated and tastefully decorated in 1888 and a new organ built by Hutch- 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



35 



ings. placed in it in 1891. From the centre of the church hangs a beautiful 
crystal chandelier for candles which was imported in 1807 by Mr. John 
Jenks.and given to the church by subscriptions from liberal members of 
the society. It is stated to have cost one thousand dollars and it has 
arms for thirty candles. About 1840 this chandelier was taken down 
and lay hidden in the cellar of the church until, with the revival of 
good taste and the appreciation of the good work of old times, it was 
hung in its former place in 1888. This is one of the largest churches 
in the city; the spire is 166 feet high and, for the interest of the curi- 
ous, who may desire to guess at the size of objects at a great height, 
they may be told that the vane which surmounts this spire is just six 
feet and one inch long from the tip of the arrow to the extreme point 
of the blazing sun at the other end. The bell which weighs rather more 
than 1,300 pounds is inscribed "Thomas Mears and Son, London, Fecit, 
1807." The clock, which has works for striking the hour only, was on 
the old first church, corner of Essex and Washington streets, probably 
more than one hundred and twenty years ago. It was removed to the 
old North church on North street in 1826, and to the South church in 
1836. It has a curious old iron frame, a pendulum ten feet long and, 
for weights, wooden boxes filled with stones. It is said to have been 
made by a Beverly blacksmith ; perhaps Samuel Luscomb, who made 
the old clock for the East church, made this one also. It is an interest- 
ing old piece of home workmanship. 

6. TJie Independent Church (Unitarian), or Barton Square church 
as it is commonly called, was the last direct outgrowth of the First church. 
The separation occurred in 1824 and the present edifice was built in that 
year, Thomas W. Sumner of Brookline being the architect. 

7. TJie Crombie Street Church (Orthodox Congregational) was an 
offshoot from the then flourishing Howard street or Branch church, itself 
an outgrowth of the Tabernacle and thus indirectly of the First church. 



36 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

The Howard street church went out of existence and the church edifice 
was taken down in 1867. The communion plate was sold and the pro- 
ceeds divided among the remaining members and the bell removed to 
the tower of the eatral Baptist church where it is now in use. The 
Crombie street society now occupies the plain brick building which was 
erected on the street of that name in 1828 for a theatre, but which as 
such did not flourish, and the building was dedicated to church purposes, 
Nov 22, 1832. Extensive repairs and alterations were made by the church 
in 1892 and several memorial windows added. 

8. The Friends Society, or Quaker church as it is too often improp- 
erly called, occupies a simple brick building among tall horsechestnuts, 
on the corner of Pine and Warren streets. The Friends held services in 
Salem as early as 1657, but the first meeting-house was not erected until 
1688. It was built on land given by the celebrated old quaker Thomas 
Maule who lived in a house on the site of the present residence of Mr. 
James B. Curwen, 331 Essex street. The meeting-house occupied the 
site of the new residence of Mr. Gifford, 377 Essex street. There was 
another meeting-house of wood, at the corner of Pine and Essex streets, 
where the Friends burying ground may now be seen, but it was given up 
some years ago. The present meeting-house of the society was built in 
1832. 

9. St. Peter's Church (Ep'scopal). The present English gothic 
church of stone occupied by this society, at the corner of Brown and 
St. Peter streets, was built in 1833 on the original land given by Philip 
English, a famous merchant of his day, for the first church edifice erected 
by the society in 1733. During the war of the Revolution, public feel- 
ing against everything English ran so high that a law was enacted by the 
State Legislature forbidding the reading of the Episcopal service under 
penalty of £100 and one year imprisonment, and religious services 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 37 

were consequently suspended, while the property of the society was in- 
jured by direct violence. But calmer times came and this society now 
enjoys prosperity. The old bell, familiar to the ears of Salemites for a 
century and a half still hangs in the St. Peter's tower. It was cast by 
Abel Rudhall at Gloucester, England. It was first rung in 1740 and is, 
therefore, the oldest church bell in the city. The initials of the maker, 
" A. R.," surmounted by a crown upon the bell, has been supposed by 
many persons to mean Anne Regina and hence the story that Queen 
Anne gave this bell to the society. From this foundry, about the same 
time, came the chime of bells now in the tower of Christ's church in 
Boston, generally acknowledged to be the best in this region. In 1885 
a chime o( ten bells was placed in the St. Peter's tower and these are 
rung every Sunday and on days of service during the week. In the old 
edifice was the first organ ever placed in a Salem church and which was 
imported from England by John Clark in 1743. A second organ fol- 
lowed in 1770 which was exchanged in 181 9 for one imported from Eng- 
land by Dr. B. L. Oliver who had it in his private residence and who 
even neglected his profession so fond was he of playing on this instrument. 
The tablets containing the Apostles Creed, Lord's Prayer and Ten Com- 
mandments, which were painted by John Gibbs of Boston in 1738 for 
the old church, are still preserved, as well as the large folio volume of 
Common Prayer given the church in 1 744 by the Rt. Hon. Sir Arthur 
Onslow, then speaker of the House of Commons of Great Britain. . There 
are still several memorial plates and cups used by the church dated 1 75 7, 
1 771 and 1785, but as was the case at the First church, the iconoclast 
not very long ago, seized upon many interesting relics of the past and 
sent them to the melting pot to be made into something of modern style, 
to the sincere regret of the present officers of the society. In the 
church and chapel are tablets to the memory of early members of the 



38 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Episcopal church in Salem, including John and Samuel Brown, mem- 
bers of the Massachusetts Bay Company in 1628, and of the first council, 
Philip English, John Touzel and John and Mary Bertram, the parents of 
Capt. John Bertram, whose name is associated with nearly every chari- 
table institution in the city. Among the tablets to the memory of de- 
ceased rectors of the church, that to Rev. James Oliver Scripture has an 
excellent medallion likeness of Mr. Scripture moulded by Miss Louisa 
Lander, the well-known artist, and a member of tlie parish. In the 
church yard, near the street, is the head-stone inscribed : "Here lyes 
buried ye body of Jonathan Pue, Esq., Late surveyor and searcher of his 
majesties' customs in Salem, New England,", who died in 1760, at the 
age of 66 years. This is the same whom Hawthorne has made famous 
by using his name in the "Introduction to the Scarlet Letter." 

10. Grace Church (Episcopal) was organized in 1858 by members 
who separated from St. Peter's augmented by many from other societies 
in Salem. The present modest church edifice was built in 1858 and en- 
larged in 1889. It contains a very beautiful pulpit of carved oak, a me- 
morial gift of a member of the society and a very fine stained glass win- 
dow was placed over the altar in 1892, through contributions of members 
of the society, to the memory of Mrs. James P. Franks the wife of the 
rector of the church. The window was designed by Henry Holiday, 
R. A., of London, and is made additionally interesting from the fact that 
it was chosen by the late Bishop Brooks while visiting England in 1891. 

11. The First Baptist Society, organized in 1804, worship in the 
pleasantly situated church building on Federal street below North which 
was erected in 1806, entirely remodelled in 1868, injured by fire in 1877 
and again repaired in 1878. The tower contains one of the largest bells 
in the city, cast by H. N. Hooper of Boston, in 1865, ^^^ a fine modern 
clock. 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 39 

12 The Central Baptist Church, also known as the Second Bap- 
tist having separated from the First Baptist Society in 1825, bmlt the 
pre'sent edifice on St. Peter street, facing Federal, in 1826. This was 
raised and entirely remodelled in .877. I" the tower ,s the bell formerly 
on the Howard street church. 

I , The Calvary Baptist Church was formed in 1870 and the pres- 
ent edifice erected by the society at the corner- of Essex and Herbert 

'''!!''' ''rlTuniversalist Church was organized in 1810, services having 
been'held in various places in town as early as 1804. The edifice on Rust 
street facing Federal, was built in 1S08 and has several tmies been re- 
modelled, the last time in 1878 when a tower was added and the intenor 
decorated in the oriental style. A large and convenient vestry and hall 
connected with the church, and fronting on Ash street, was bu.lt m 
188Q. A new Hutchings organ was added in October, 1888. 

I, Church of the Immaculate Conception (Roman Catholic). 
The large brick edifice on Walnut street, facing Charter, was bmlt m 1857 
andremodelled and a tower added in 1880. The church was consecrated 
in i8go. The bell is the largest in the city weighing 3250 pounds, the 
tone B It was cast by the Blake Bell Foundry of Boston and was blessed 
on Tuly 9, 1891. The inscription on it reads : "Immaculate Conception 
P rslfto the'sacred Heart." Name, "St. Mary's." The organ m this 
church was built by W. H. Ryder of Boston. Roman Catholic serv ces 
were held in Salem as early as 1790 and a church was -S^^;^^^; ; "; 
The first edifice, St. Mary's, was built at the corner of Mall ^-^ B"dge 
streets in 182., on land given by Simon Forrester. This edifice was 
occutd until X857 and in 1877 it was torn down being considered 

""if' St. James Church (Roman Catholic). The wooden structure on 
4 



40 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Federal street, above Flint, was built in 1849 ^^ accommodate the increas- 
ing congregations which overcrowded St. Mary's Church. It has remained 
with but little change to the present time and now gives place to the con- 
spicuous gothic edifice just completed with a tower and spire two hun- 
dred feet high and a height in the interior from pavement to ridge-pole of 
87 feet. 

17. S^. Joseph's Church (Roman Catholic; French), on Lafayette 
street above Harbor, was organized in 1873. The present edifice of 
wood was erected in 1883. It contains the large organ, built by J. H. 
Wilcox and Co. in 1870, originally placed in Mechanic Hall through 
the efforts of a committee of citizens interested in the Salem Oratorio 
Society, and which was sold to the church by the Hall corporation. 

18. The Lafayette St. Methodist Episcopal Chiwch, at the corner 
of Harbor street, was built and dedicated in 1853. This society had pre- 
viously occupied a smaller house of worship on Sewall street, which was 
again occupied in 1872, as Wesley Chapel, by members who withdrew 
from the Lafayette St. Society, and who, largely augmented in numbers, 
re-organized as 

19. The Wesley Church and, in 1888, erected the large brick and 
stone church edifice on North street a few doors from Essex. In con- 
struction this is quite 'different from any other church building in the 
city. By means of sliding doors, the seating capacity can be much in- 
creased by connecting the Sunday school rooms which are on the street 
end of the building, with the large audience room. The windows of the 
church being of stained glass present a most attractive appearance in the 
evening when services are being held, the brightly lighted interior reflect- 
ing through the large gothic window on North street. The church has 
been the recipient of a fine organ, a memorial gift from a member of the 
society, the builders being Woodberry and Harris. 




Custom House. 



Post Office. 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 4 1 

20. The New Jerusaleiti Church (Swedenborgian) , an Essex near 
Cambridge, was built in 1871, meetings of this sect having been held in 
halls and private houses in Salem since 1840. 

2 1 . The Advent Christian Church, 127 North street, was built in 1 890, 
the society having been organized in 1875. 

22. The Marine Society Bethel at the foot of Turner street was built 
in 1890 with funds received by request from Capt. Henry Barr. It is 
conducted as a non-sectarian chapel, the different ministers of the neigh- 
borhood officiating. 

A Seaman's Bethel Society holds meetings in the rooms at the corner 
of Turner and Derby streets, and religious services are also held by the 
Deaf Mutes and other organizations which do not own or occupy church 
edifices. 

There are Parish or Guild houses connected with the St. Peter's and 
the Central Baptist Societies. 

The Custom House. — The Salem Custom House is chiefly interesting 
from its association with Nathaniel Hawthorne, and with Gen. James Mil- 
ler, of Chippewa and Lundy's Lane. It is not exactly a monument to the 
commercial grandeur of the old port, for it was only built in 18 18-19, a 
period a little beyond the romantic epoch in the history of Salem, and 
it goes without saying that it has no antiquarian interest about it, though 
visitors often expect to find it a picturesque and time-worn structure. In 
point of fact it is as substantial, dignified and well kept a building as the 
city contains, with a little history of its own perhaps worth recounting, 
beside having been graced with the occupancy of several persons of the 
highest distinction. In the old days when the word Salem was the syn- 
onym for everything brilliant and heroic in a commercial way, the custom 
house, strangely enough, was a movable establishment ; the office followed 
the collector from house to house wherever he might happen to reside. 



42 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

and if he chanced to be a bachelor and a victhn of the boarding-house 
habit, it might be impossible for a shipmaster setting out for a voyage to 
conjecture where it would be found upon his return, or even find it when 
he did wish to enter his homeward cargo. Sometimes it was in a hired 
room as the post office is to-day, the migratory collector's office being 
moved about like a nomad from Creek street, North street corner to 
Neck Gate, to Gedney court, to Central street, to Newbury street corner, 
and to one or more buildings on Essex street, until the custom house 
was finally provided in 1819. The office was once on the west side of Cen- 
tral street, w^here a carved and painted eagle still marks its entrance. 
During all these years names now famous were added to the roll of collec- 
tors and surveyors. William Fairfax was collector when he left Salem for 
Virginia to found a family. Surveyor Pue owes his immortality to his 
successor Haw^thorne. William Hathorne, the romancer's ancestor, 
was collecting a tonnage tax in gun-powder, at a half a pound per ton in 
1667. The names of Browne, Lynde, Bowditch, Veren, Palfray, Hiller 
and Lee grace the Hst, and James Cockle, upon whose petition for a writ 
to search for smuggled molasses, James Otis made his memorable plea 
against writs of assistance, was at the time collector of Salem. The site 
upon which the custom house stands was the homestead of George Crown- 
inshield, the progenitor of a numerous race, of whom his sons, Hon. Ben- 
jamin, was a member of congress and secretary of the navy under Madi- 
son, and Hon. Richard was a member of congress who declined an offer 
of a like distinction. The land had been a portion of the Derby estate, 
and came to Mr. Crowninshield through a marriage with Elias Haskett 
Derby's sister. It was a fine old house with pilasters in front like the 
Pickman-DerUy-Brookhouse mansion on Washington street, and like that 
was crowned with a cupola, but on its top in the place of the eagle of 
the latter, it had a merchant holding at arm's length a spy-glass. It had 




Court Houses. 



Law Library. 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 43 

a famous fruit and flower garden and stables in the rear, and compared 
well in every way with the best of our pre-revolutionary architecture. A 
committee of such merchants as John Derby, Nathaniel Silsbee, Robert 
Stone, Stephen White and Joseph Peabody selected the spot in behalf of 
the government, and John Derby removed a warehouse of his which stood 
in front that the harbor view might be unobstructed. Perley Putnam, the 
nestor of our city government, and John Saunders, the cadetman and first 
captain of the light infantry, took the contract to build it, and Judge 
Story, Secretary Crowninshield, Senator Silsbee, Willard Peele and Joseph 
Peabody commended the work in a report to the government. There are 
pine boards in the dado, twenty-six inches wide in the clear, slates of 
rare quality and dimensions were imported from Wales, and flagstones 
for the sidewalks from Potsdam, N. Y., by the way of the St. Lawrence. 
The cost was $36,000. From a cupola on top, custom officers keep w^atch 
for infractions of the revenue laws. The building contains a portrait of 
Joseph Hiller, the first collector under the constitution, given by the family, 
and a bust of Lincoln, a copy in plaster of the famous Volk bust, made 
on Lincoln's first leaving his home in Springfield, 111., to occupy the 
White House. This particular plaster cast was procured from the sculp- 
tor and used by the late Joseph Ames in painting the portrait of Lincoln 
placed by the merchants of Boston in Faneuil Hall. He then presented 
it to Robert S. Rantoul, at that time collector of the port, who placed it 
on perpetual deposit at the custom house. But the interest manifested 
in the Salem custom house centres mainly in the fact that some years of 
Mr. Hawthorne's service in the customs department were spent here as 
surveyor of customs, in the southwesterly office on the first floor of the 
building. His desk, upon the lid of which he scratched his autograph 
with his thumb-nail, is still to be seen at the Essex Institute, audit is not 
unlikely that some of his compositions may have been written on it. The 



44 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

room in which tradition says "The Scarlet Letter" was discovered is that 
in the rear of the collector's private office on the second floor of the east- 
erly side of the building, and was in Hawthorne's day and for some years 
after an unfinished chamber, filled with old papers in barrels and with 
waste and confusion generally. The papers were afterwards filed as well 
as they could be and placed in the attic, but no sufficient restrictions being 
enforced they were raided by autograph hunters and claim agents in 
search of evidence of demands for pensions and shares in prizes captured 
in the wars with England, and suffered great depletion. The old records 
before the Revolution are all missing. The story is that they were taken 
to Halifax on the outbreak of the war of Independence by the last royal 
collector. Another account is that they perished in the great fire of 1 774, 
which attacked the town house where they were deposited. 

Post Office. — The United States Post Office occupies the lower floor 
of the building at 118 and 120 Washington street, having quarters spec- 
ially arranged for the business of this department of the public service. 
The attention of the stranger will at once be attracted to this building, 
which was erected in 1883, by the colonial character of its architecture, 
which is also well carried out in its next-door neighbor, the Peabody build- 
ing. Over the main entrance to the Post Office is a fine reproduction 
in wood carving of the United States coat of arms, and over the 'southern 
door on Washington street, one of the city seal. The Post Office is open 
on week days from 7.30 a. m. till 8 p. m., and a half hour later on Satur- 
days. On Sunday the office is open from 11.30 a. m. to 12.30 p. m. 
Free collections and deliveries are made three times daily from all parts 
of the city except on Sundays, when one collection is made but no de- 
livery, and hourly collections are made from the "scarlet" letter-boxes in 
the central portion of the city on week days. Salem Post Office is a 
money-order office for domestic points, and for all foreign points. There 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 45 

are eight mails on week days for Boston, four for New York City, and 
the same number for Philadelphia, Washington, the South and West. One 
general mail is made up on Sunday. 

Court Houses. — Tradition tells us that the first Court House in Salem 
was situated on the west side of Washington street about where the pres- 
ent post-office building is located. This building was moved in 1677 t>y 
Joshua Buffum and set in the middle of Washington street about oppo- 
site Church street then known as Eppes lane and facing Essex street. Its 
upper part was fitted up in 1679 for the accommodation of the courts. 
In this court house the witchcraft trials were held and a bronze tablet 
recently put up on the Brookhouse estate gives the story in brief and 
marks the spot. In 1 718 the Court of General Sessions, finding this court 
house too small, ordered the erection of a new building twenty feet stud, 
thirty broad and forty long, the upper story for the court and the lower 
for town business. This town and court house erected on Washington 
street opposite the First church and thirty-two feet distant therefrom and 
facing Essex street was destined to be the theatre of some of the most 
important events in the history, not only of Salem, but of the country. 
These events are referred to elsewhere and are recorded on a tablet placed 
on the First church. The square here has been named Town House 
Square. 

In 1 785 another town and court house was built and it was again lo- 
cated in the middle of Washington street but farther north than the witch- 
craft court house. Its west side faced the Tabernacle church and its 
front was towards Essex street. From the balustrade of this court house 
General Washington was presented to the assembled crowd when he made 
his northern tour. 

The building of the tunnel under Washington street necessitated the 
building of a new court house and the present granite building was erected 



46 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

on the corner of Federal and Washington streets. The city of Salem 
provided the lot on which it is built. Ground was first l^roken July 8, 
1839, and the building was completed in 1842. Its dimensions are 55 
feet broad and 105 long and two stories high. Its four columns, two at 
each end, are of the Corinthian order. Their flutes and capitals are said 
to be copied from those in the Tower of Winds at Athens. Each column 
is three feet, ten inches in diameter and thirty-two feet high including the 
base and capital. The walls are solid granite and all the floors are sup- 
ported by brick arches. The cost of the building was about $80,000. 
The architect was Richard Bond of Boston. The principal contractors 
were Samuel S. Standley and Henry Russell, jr., masons of Salem. The 
building was first opened for public use March 21, 1842, with a session 
of the Court of Common Pleas, Judge Warren presiding. From the time 
of the opening up to Oct. 3, 1862, this building was the only court house 
in Salem. The courts were held in the upper story while the lower was 
devoted to county offices. This court house was remodelled in 1889 
and the whole lower floor devoted to the registry of deeds and the sec- 
ond story to the probate and insolvency office and probate court room. 
There is not much to interest the general visitor in this building but the 
antiquary and genealogist delight to pore over the old records of wills 
and deeds running back as they do to 1640 and disclosing many a clew 
to old family relationships. The land adjoining this building was pur- 
chased in 1857 and a brick court house built thereon in 1861. The 
building was formally dedicated to the use of the courts Friday, Oct. 3, 
1862. Enoch Fuller was the architect and Simeon Flint and Abraham 
Towle the contractors. Authority was obtained from the legislature to 
expend $25,000 in its erection. The expenditure was within the appro- 
priation, as noteworthy a fact as anything connected with its history. The 
outside of this building when built was covered with mastic but in the 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 47 

fall of 1 89 1 this was removed, a new covering of brick was laid and a 
tower added on front, thus bringing the outside into harmony with the 
new annex. 

In 1887, the construction of an additional fireproof building was com- 
menced to connect with the brick court house. It was finished in 1889 
at an expense of ^147,115.31. The architects were Wheelwright & 
Northend, and the contractors, Parsons & Peterson. The new building 
while annexed to the court house of 1861 overshadows it both in size 
and in architectural pretensions. It was dedicated Feb. 2, 1889. Hon. 
William D. Northend, chairman of the bar committee, presented a report 
and Hon. Eben F. Stone delivered an address to the bar of Essex county. 
The building, thus dedicated, contains on the lower floor large and com- 
modious rooms occupied by the clerk of courts, county treasurer and 
county commissioners, and the second story a small court room ; but the 
feature of this court house, its crowning glory, is the grand and spacious 
room provided for the law library. On entering it, you are confronted 
with a fireplace so magnificent in size and so elegant in its proportions 
that it seems to dominate the whole room. You soon find, however, that 
the entire apartment is up to the standard set by the fireplace. The oak 
finish is appropriate and elegant and the massive furniture accords in 
beauty with its surroundings. Portraits of distinguished members of the 
bar are hung around the room, among them being portraits of Judge Otis 
P. Lord and Judge George F. Choate, both by F. P. Vinton of Boston, and 
one of Rufus Choate by the late Joseph Ames, presented by Gen. Benj. 
F. Butler. A fine full-length portrait of Chief Justice Shaw, by the late 
William M. Hunt, hangs over the Judge's bench in the front court room 
and is considered one of the best eftbrts of that distinguished artist. But 
the attraction in this court house, which brings to it annually thousands 
of visitors from all parts of this country, as well as many from foreign 



48 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

lands, is to be found in the office of tlie clerk of the courts. Here the 
curious may find, in manuscript, all the testimony taken in the famous 
witchcraft trials and the original death warrant of Bridget Bishop with 
the return of the sheriff thereon, which return, serious and solemn as was 
the business, provokes a smile when we read that he "caused her to be 
hung by the neck till she was dead and buried, -^^ and find that, as if realiz- 
ing that he was going rather too far, he has drawn his pen through the 
words "and buried." Here also may be seen the "witch pins" so called 
from having been produced in court at the trials as among the instru- 
ments of torture used by the accused. They were at first pinned into 
the original papers containing the written testimony but as their number 
seemed to be diminishing with the increasing number of visitors, what 
are left have been put in a small vial and securely sealed. 

The clerk's office is open from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. except on Saturday 
when it is closed at i o' clock p. m. 

The Supreme Court sits in Salem on the third Tuesday of April, and 
on the first Tuesday of November. The Supreme Court holds sessions 
for civil business in Salem on the first Mondays of June and December; 
for criminal business on the fourth Monday of January. The Probate 
Court sits in Salem on the first and third Mondays in each month, except 
in August, when a session is held on the first Monday only. 

District Court. — The First District Court of Essex occupies the sec- 
ORd story of a building of brick, with granite trimmings, on Washington 
street, opposite the B. & M. railroad station. The site occupied was 
filled in a few years since, when Washington street was extended across 
the South river. Until within twenty years, schooners came up to the 
old "City Mills." where the R R. engine house now stands. Sessions of 
the District Court are held at 9 a. m. daily for criminal business, and 
on Wednesdays at 10 a. m. for civil business. 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 49 

The County Jail is on St. Peter street, the grounds extending to the 
corner of Bridge street. It is a solid structure of granite. The original 
building was erected in 1813 and the present building in 1884-5. I^ ^^ 
one of the most substantial jails in the state. Visitors are admitted from 
9 to 1 1 A. M. and from 2 to 5 p. m., except on Saturdays, Sundays and 
holidays. 

The pillory and stocks were among the older instruments of punish- 
ment and the whipping post remained in more or less active use until 
1805. A picture painted in 1765 showing the whipping post in the cen- 
tre of Washington street may be seen at the Essex Institute. 

Public Halls. — Mechanic Hall, on Essex street nearly opposite Sewall 
street, is the principal hall for theatrical entertainments in the city. It 
has a seating capacity of about iioo. It is owned by the Mechanic 
Hall Corporation. It was built in 1839, and remodelled in 1870. 

Lyceum Hall, on Church street, seats about 600. It was built in 1831, 
and is owned by the Salem Lyceum, an organization which inaugurated 
a course of lectures the year previous, and has continued them every 
season since, at the uniform rate of ^i for each course. The list of those 
who have lectured before the "Lyceum" includes the names of the most 
famous lecturers of America. This is the oldest institution of the kind 
(with perhaps a single exception) in the country. 

Academy Hall, number 157 Essex street, has a seating capacity of 350. 
It is one of the finest lecture and concert halls of its size in the state, 
its acoustic properties and ventilation being of the best. It is lighted 
with incandescent electric lights and is handsomely decorated and fur- 
nished. It is the property of the Peabody Academy of Science. 

Washington Hall is in the upper story of the Stearns Building on the 
northeast corner of Essex and Washington streets, which was erected 
about 1 771 . This quaint and now deserted hall was for a number of years 



50 VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM. 

after it was opened a popular place for parties and other gatherings. It 
is a curious survival of an antique hall. 

Ha7nilton Hall, corner of Chestnut and Cambridge streets is owned by 
the South Building Corporation, built in 1805 and named in honor of 
Alexander Hamilton who had visited Salem and who had here many of 
his warmest admirers. This hall has ever been the centre of Salem's so- 
cial activity and in it have been held the ''Assemblies" and many notice- 
able anniversary dinners and celebrations. Lafayette was entertained at 
an elegant dinner in this hall in 1824. 

There are a number of other halls well suited for dancing parties and 
social meetings. Post 34 Grand Army occupies a hall at 1 7 St. Peter 
street. 

Boston and Maine Railroad Station. — One of the most imposing 
building fronts in the city is that of the Boston and Maine Railroad pas- 
senger station, Washington street. It has two high granite towers, and a 
soHd granite arched entrance of beautiful design. The building was 
erected in 1847, ^^^> with the exception of the front, was rebuilt in 1882, 
the wooden portion of the structure having been destroyed by fire on the 
night of April 6, of that year. The railroad tunnel passing under Wash- 
ington street is 650 feet long and was completed in 1839. 

There are flag stations at North St., and Flint St. at which the Lowell 
and Wakefield trains stop, and one named "Atlantic" on the Marblehead 
branch. The "Forest River" station also on the Marblehead branch is 
on Lafayette St. near the Marblehead and Salem boundary line. 

The Naumkeag street-railway station is at Town House Square. 

Armory of the Salem Cadets. — The Armory of the Salem Cadets, 
136 Essex street, stands on land occupied by the residence of Governor 
Simon Bradstreet. The residence of the late Col. Francis Peabody which 
forms the portion of the armory fronting on Essex street was built about 1 8 1 8. 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 5 I 

In 1890, the Stephen Abbott Associates of the Cadets purchased this 
house and added the drill shed which is 86 feet long and 79 feet wide. 
This hall is used for large meetings and fairs as well as the drills of the 
battalion. The rooms of the old mansion are admirably fitted for the 
uses to which they are put by this organization. The "Banqueting Hall," 
a room elaborately ornamented in carved oak for Colonel Peabody, is an 
interesting feature of the house. In this room, Prince Arthur of England 
was entertained at dinner on the occasion of his attending the funeral of 
George Peabody, the banker, Feb. 8, 1870. It is located in an addition 
to the house ; the architecture is gothic, after the style of the Elizabethan 
period. At one end is a stained glass window of four panels containing 
representations of both sides of the Massachusetts seal, the seal of the 
City of Salem and the Peabody coat-of-arms. The window has, besides, 
other designs, x^t the opposite end is a fireplace with Dutch jambs sur- 
mounted by a heavy chimney piece of oak elaborately carved and con- 
taining niches ornamented with statuettes. The central figure is Queen 
Victoria, and two other figures stand at each side. A lion surmounts the 
whole with a guardsman and priest at either hand. The walls of the 
room are arranged to admit light by opening doors leading to long win- 
dows at first not discovered by the visitor. The motive of the whole de- 
sign gives the effect of a chapel, while a bronze chandelier, fitted with 
electric lights, casts about it a soft glow in keeping with the character of 
this unique room. The reception room on the first floor of the building 
is also as Colonel Peabody decorated it, with a fine Carrara mantel sup- 
ported by caryatids, and with door frames and other finish in a style of 
architecture to conform. A small room, also on the lower floor, is deco- 
rated in the oriental style. The entire building is handsomely furnished 
and decorated with portraits of commanders of the Corps and military 
pictures in nearly every room. Two portraits (see list of portraits) by 
5 



52 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALFM. 



J. Harvey Young, who was a Salem boy, living on Oliver street, and be- 
came a distinguished portrait painter, are deserving of special notice for 
their historic and romantic as well as their artistic interest. One is the 
portrait of Colonel Ellsworth and was painted from life while he was in 
Boston with his celebrated Chicago Zouaves. The companion picture, 
that of Lieutenant Brown ell, was also painted in Boston from life and in 
the same uniform he wore at the time he shot Jackson, Ellsworth's assassin, 
at Alexandria. These two portraits and one other were all that Mr. Young 
saved from the great fire in Boston in 1872, when he immediately pre- 
sented them to the Cadets. The likenesses, strong both in feature and 
character, are as valuable from their associations, as any portraits in Salem 
institutions. 

The Salem Cadet band has its headquarters in the Armory building. 
This band, under the leadership of Mr. Jean Missud, has gained a na- 
tional reputation. The Salem Band, one of the oldest organizations of 
this character in the state, has its rooms in Hale's building. The Eighth 
Regiment Band is located in a building on Front street. The Lafayette 
(French) Band has rooms on Lafayette street near the South bridge. 
Salem has always been noted for its excellent military and concert bands 
and its orchestras. The leadership of Jerome H. Smith of the old Salem 
Band and the connection of Mr. P. S. Gilmore as leader of the same or- 
ganization, which he left to take charge of his famous Boston and New 
York military bands, and later his gigantic jubilee concerts, will always be 
remembered. 

The Armory of the Salem Light Infantry is in Franklin Building. It 
consists of two large halls and ante-rooms. This organization furnished 
for the Union army during the war of the rebellion a very large number 
of officers and men. 



CHAPTER IV. 

City Buildings, 

THE City Hall stands on Washington street just north of Town 
House Square. It has lately become an object of interest from 
the fact that within a few years a number of valuable paintings 
have been contributed to its collection, the whole properly marked with 
names and dates, and some of the unique antiquities of the old town 
records have been dug up and brought within reach of visitors. 

The hall was built from the surplus revenue of the United States treas- 
ury distributed in 1837 to the states, and by them among the towns and 
cities. It was first used May 31, 1838, and cost when furnished about 
$23,000. It was made necessary by the increase of business, and by the 
removal of the fine old Macintire court house, where the town offices 
were — the court house where Washington was received — in order to make 
way for the Eastern Railroad tunnel at the north end of Washington street. 
It has since been enlarged and its business capacity and cost about 
doubled by an extension in the rear, built in 1876. The whole lot is 
covered now and the hall is again outgrown. The front of the hall is a 
plain but rather effective granite facade surmounted with a gilded eagle, 
carved by Macintire, and originally placed on the wooden gateway at 
the western entrance of the Common, which disappeared in 1850. The 
first floor of the City Hall is devoted to the offices" of the city treasurer, 

(53) 



54 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 



clerk of the school board, superintendent of schools, water board and 
overseers of the poor on the right hand, and those of the city clerk, 
city messenger, inspector of buildings, superintendent of public prop- 
erty and board of health on the left. On the second floor an elegant 
chamber, remodelled in 1880 for the use of the mayor and aldermen, 
occupies the entire front of the building and contains a fine copy of 
Stuart's full-length Washington, painted for the state of Rhode Island and 
hanging at the capitol at Newport. This copy was made by James Froth- 
ingham on the order of Abiel A])bott Low of New York, who presented 
it in 1862 to his native city. The chamber contains also fac simile No. 
34, done on silk, of the crayon portrait of General Grant, presented to 
his widow in 1885 by the Grand Army of the Republic. Portraits of 
Leverett Saltonstall, Salem's first mayor, painted by Charles Osgood, 
of Henry Kemble Oliver, who was mayor of Salem on his eightieth birth- 
day, the gift of his family and painted by Miss Adelaide Cole, and of Charles 
Albert Read, the donor of 1^40,000 the largest gift of money ever re- 
ceived by the City of Salem, of which he was a native, painted by 
J. Harvey Young, and presented in 1888 by his only son. The furnishings 
and decorations of the chamber are modern and tasteful, and it is bril- 
liantly lighted at night with two electric chandeliers. 

Across the entry and opening into it by wide swinging doors, is the 
common-council chamber, which remains substantially as to its furniture 
and appointments, with the exception of its electric lighting, as it was 
arranged in 1838. Its desks form a large circle around the chamber, 
which is amply large for the public reception of distinguished guests, for 
public hearings of general interest, and for such municipal functions as 
gather a large concourse of citizens, as well as for the ordinary meetings 
of the common council and school board, and for meetings of larger 
citizens' committees on extraordinary occasions. On the walls of this 



CITY BUILDINGS. 55 

well-designed and dignified council chamber will be found other pictures 
of interest and merit. Another Washington hangs here, the work of Jane 
Stuart, copied from a half length portrait painted by her father. The let- 
tering under the picture commemorates the visit of Washington to Salem 
in 1789. On Washington's left hangs a striking likeness of the Marquis 
de Lafayette, a copy by Charles Osgood from a painting by the electri- 
cian. Morse, and the visit of the illustrious Frenchman to Salem in 1784 
and 1824 are here recorded. Perhaps the best work in the hall is a por- 
trait of x\ndrew Jackson, by Maj. R. E. W. Earle, of the General's mili- 
tary family, done at the time of his northern tour, in the course of which 
he visited Salem in 1833, and representing him as a much younger man 
and in a much less conventional light than the more familiar likenesses 
have done. The painting was presented to the city in 1891 by Benjamin 
Barstow, Esq. 

The companion picture on the northern wall is a likeness, and a very 
good one, of Lieutenant-General Philip H. Sheridan, as we knew him to- 
wards the end of his brilliant career, when he visited Salem in 1888. It 
is the work of C. C. Redmond. On the southern wall are the portraits 
of governor John Endicott, an admirable copy by Geo. Southard of the 
original painting in possession of the family, and of governor Simon Brad- 
street, a copy by Joseph De Camp, of the portrait in the State House, 
Boston. On the right of the chair is a portrait of John Glen King, the 
president of our first Common Council, copied by Frank W. Benson in 
1886, from a portrait by Charles Osgood, now the property of the Es- 
sex Institute. On the left of the chair hangs a curious old parchment, 
dated 1686, upon which is beautifully engrossed in tliat obsolete hand- 
writing, the envy of our day, what purports to be a warranty deed of all 
our territory from the heirs of Nanepashemet to the selectmen of Salem 
in trust for the people. These Indian chiefs, most of them marksmen 



56 visitor's guide to salem. 

in a double sense, for they executed this in every known way save affix- 
ing to it an autograph signature, undertook, for the consideration of 
twenty pounds, to confirm and estabhsh the title of the white colonists 
beyond all cavil, and in witness of this generous intent affixed their sign 
manual in shapes which look like bows and arrows, and tomahawks, and 
fish hooks, and samp bowls, and tobacco pipes, and then added impres- 
sions in wax of a seal which some accommodating conveyancer placed at 
their service, and duly acknowledged the whole transaction as their free 
act before no less a personage than that august dignitary, Bartholomew 
Gedney. The first name in the eminent list of witnesses to the deed is 
that of Andrew Eliot, the octogenarian town clerk of Beverly, and ances- 
tor of a distinguished progeny of Eliots all over the country, John Eliot 
Thayer and President Eliot of Harvard, being among the number. 

This expedient was resorted to in order to secure our land titles against 
the threatened aggressions of James II, who was then bent on cancelling 
the colonial charters and arrogating all rights, privileges and immunities 
unto his royal person. In Connecticut the charter was secreted in the 
famous oak. In Massachusetts and Rhode Island, steps of the kind de- 
scribed were attempted, but although the courts of our sister state have 
shown some respect for these Indian tribes and based legal proceedings 
upon them, such has not been the result in Massachusetts. 

The second floor, besides these two chambers and the necessary retiring 
rooms for the use of committees and members, furnishes two convenient 
offices for his Honor the Mayor, and a room for the street commissioner 
and the committee on streets, bridges and sewers, together with accom- 
modations for the board of assessors, in which those functionaries pursue 
day by day, the dreadful work of dooming their fellow men. 

In the city clerk's office may be seen the original of a contract for the 
enlargement of our first church, dated 1638, and executed by Governor 




Publ 



.Main Hail) 



Public Library (Exterior). 



CITY BUILDINGS. 57 

Endicott, who probably wrote it, by John Woodbury, by Wm. Hathorne 
by Lawrence Leach and by Roger Conant on one part, and by John 
Pickering on the other. These signers all obtained at least a local celeb- 
rity, and Endicott, Woodbury and Hawthorne a good deal more. The 
signers on the one side represented the town, which was then identical 
with the parish, and on the other was the ancestor of Timothy Pickering 
who in his time filled every place in Washington's Cabinet, and whose 
father and son were both conspicuous personages. 

The City Hall is open from 8 a. m. until 5 p. m. each day in the week, 
except Saturday, when it closes at 2 p. m. It is generally open in the 
evening for some meeting of a board or committee, so that the visitor 
will rarely seek admittance in vain, and will find the urbane messenger 
and his assistant, both veterans of the war, always pleased to act as 
guides in examining the art treasures and curiosities of the place. It is 
the peoples' heirloom and they like to have their guests enjoy it. 

Town Hall. — The "Town Hall" and market house, now standing in 
the Market Square, was built in 1816. It cost about ^12,000. The lower 
story was opened as a market Nov. 25, 1816, and the hall above was first 
opened to the public July 8, 181 7, the occasion of the visit of President 
Monroe to Salem. It was used for town meetings and other gatherings 
until the incorporation of Salem as a city, in 1836. The market house 
is leased to various parties for meat and provision "stalls." The land on 
which the Town Hall stands was a portion of the estate of Elias Haskett 
Derby, a successful merchant. He built in 1 799 a mansion facing Essex 
street, which cost $80,000. The square now occupied by the Town 
Hall was named Derby Square in his honor, but is generally referred to now 
as Market Square. The mansion of Mr. Derby was the most sumptuous 
and elegant ever erected in Salem. Its picture may be seen in the second 
edition of Felt's Annals. He lived in it but a few months and not long 



58 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

after his death it was closed and offered for sale. No purchaser was 
found for so costly an establishment and the heirs finally conveyed it to 
the town for the purpose indicated. The estate extended in finely ap- 
pointed grounds to the river and one condition of the gift was that a 
public fish market should be forever maintained on it. During the war 
of 1 81 2-15, the provost marshal's office was in the old Higginson House 
in Higginson Square and the late Wm. H. Foster, then deputy provost 
marshal was the custodian of the mansion and used to take visitors over 
it in large numbers some confessedly from curiosity and some possessing 
a wish to inspect it with the idea that they might become buyers. It 
was torn down previous to 1816. 

The Police Station. — The Police Station is No. 11 Front street. It 
is a plain brick building, and has a lockup connected with it. Its offices 
and guard room are well arranged. A very good library of upwards of 1,000 
volumes, contributed by citizens and members of the police force, is ar- 
ranged in cases in one of the rooms. A cabinet of pohce curiosities oc- 
cupies a place in the assistant marshal's office. 

Fire Department. — The houses and apparatus of the fire department 
are modern in architecture and are well kept and cared for, the best ex- 
amples being the quarters of the steamers on Church street and at the 
junction of Lafayette and Washington, and the hose house on North 
street. The locations are as follows : — 

Steamer i, "William Chase," Lafayette street corner of Washington. 

Steamer i, "City of Salem," and 3, "Victor," 30 Church street.^ 

Hook and Ladder, "Franklin," 178 Bridge street. 

Hose, "Constitution," Webb street near Bridge. 

Hose, "J. A. Lord," 61 Boston street. 

Hose, "Active," North street above Dearborn. 

The Veteran Firemen's Association occupy the Hose house on Derby 



CITY BUILDINGS. 59 

Street and have a hand engine of the old-fashioned kind which could 
be used in an emergency. 

The Almshouse. — Prior to 1660 the Almshouse occupied the site of 
the State Normal School at the corner of Broad and Summer streets and 
later a portion of the Common (Washington Sq.) was occupied for this 
purpose. The Almshouse now is the large old-fashioned brick building 
on city land at the ''Neck" seen at the left from the road to the Willows. 
It was built in 18 16, from the plans of Charles Bulfinch who was the archi- 
tect. A large building adjoining this was erected in 1884, as a ward for 
the insane, W. D. Dennis being the architect. The grounds about the 
buildings are well cared for and a good farm is connected with the in- 
stitution. 

The City Fish Market is at 21 Front street opposite Derby square. 
It is a brick building erected within a few years and with all the modern 
appliances for its special use. It stands on land given to the city for this 
especial purpose by E. H. Derby. 

Other Departments. — Street and Lamp Department and City Water 
Works Department occupy buildings on Bridge street near the foot of 
Howard street. The buildings at Wenham Lake (six miles from the city) 
occupied as the pumping station of the City Water Works, and a building 
on Church street, occupied by the same department, are substantial brick 
structures. The City Hall, PoHce Station, almshouse and fire depart- 
ment stations are connected with the telephone exchange, which gives 
communication throughout the city, and the city has also a special police 
circuit and the well devisetl Pearce and Jones fire alarm system. 



CHAPTER V. 

Libraries, Scientific Institutions, etc. 



Public Library. 



ON the first of December, 1887, the heirs of Capt. John Bertram 
offered to the city his late residence on Essex street, at the corner 
of Monroe street, to be used for a pubUc Hbrary. On the twenty- 
seventh of the same month the city accepted the gift and instructed its 
committee to petition the Legishiture for authority to issue bonds to the 
amount 0(^25,000 for the use of the library. By the provisions of the 
deed of gift the management of the library is vested in a board of seven 
trustees, six elected for hfe by the city council, and the mayor ex-officio a 
member and chairman of the board. The city council on Feb. 27, 1887, 
elected the trustees who at once began the work of preparing the build- 
ing for use as a library. Scarcely any alterations were made in the exte- 
rior of the building but the first, second and third floors were entirely re- 
moved and rebuilt in a much stronger m.anner. The first story consists 
of one great hall entered through a vestibule and divided in the centre by 
a counter with a screen and spindle work above, making the entrance half 
of the building a public lobby about 24 by 38 feet all finished in oak, with 
a wainscot 3 feet 6 inches high, and tiled floor. Here the books are re- 
ceived and delivered over the counter. The rest of the floor is given up 
(60) 




Essex Institute (Exterior). 



Essex Institute (Historical Room). 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 6 1 

to Stacking space and a small room for the use of the librarian. In the 
ell there is a small room for cataloguing books. At one end of the main 
hall on the chimney breast over the fireplace is the city seal carved in oak ; 
and at the other end a colonial staircase running up to the second story. 
On the second floor is the general reading room about 36 by 42 feet, with 
a wainscot of oak five feet high, painted walls and fitted with oak furni- 
ture. There is also a special reference room 1 7 by 26 feet finished in ash 
and a smaller room in the ell for the use of the trustees. 

The third floor which is about 44 by 46 feet is used for stacking space 
There is a large unfinished attic above this story. The basement, one 
half of which is entirely above ground, is taken up with a janitor's room, 
two work rooms for binding and repairing books and a boiler and coal 
room. The cost of the alterations on the building was $22,153.10. The 
library was opened to the public for the delivery of books July 8, 1889. 
Upon the completion of the library building and removal of the books 
thereto there were 11,212 volumes on the printed finding-Hsts. There 
were in the library Aug. i, 1893, 27,808 volumes. The building is sur- 
rounded with an ample area of land cultivated as a lawn in which may be 
seen one of the finest specimens of the elm tree to be found in this region. 
On the walls of the library hang excellent portraits of Rev. Joseph B. 
Felt, the author of "Felt's Annals of Salem," painted by Edgar Parker and 
presented to the library by Hon. J. B. F. Osgood, and of Capt. John Ber- 
tram, by F. P. Vinton of Boston, presented by his widow and daughters. 
Also a painting by Clement R. Grant entitled "A Witchcraft accusation" 
the gift of Mrs. C. B. Kimball, and "Ashore ; Low Tide," a painting by 
Ross Turner deposited by the artist. The library is open every day for 
the delivery of books (Sundays and legal holidays excepted) from 9 a. m. 
to 8 p. M., on Saturday until 9 p. m. The reading room is open every 
week day from 9 a. m. to 10 p. m. and on Sundays from 2 p. m. to 8 p. m. 



62 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Salem Athen/eum, Plummer Hall. — The Salem Athenaeum was 
incorporated in March, 1810. Its character and objects are in many re- 
spects like those of the Boston Athenseum. The library consisting of 
19,500 volumes is contained in a finely proportioned, lofty and well lighted 
hall in the second story, entrance to the same being had through an ante- 
room which is used as a reading room by the members. The number 
of shareholders is one hundred, but persons not proprietors can avail 
themselves of the privileges of the library by paying an annual subscription 
of six dollars. The library rooms are open from 8.30 a. m. to 6 p. m. 
daily except Sundays and holidays. Although the Salem Athenaeum is 
not a free public institution, visitors may generally be admitted by apply- 
ing to the librarian. 

Plummer Hall is so called in honor of Ernestus Augustus Plummer, 
whose sister, directing that her gift should be recorded in his name, be- 
queathed to the proprietors of the Salem Athenaeum the sum of thirty 
thousand dollars for the purchase of a piece of land and the erecting of a 
suitable building for the use of that society. The land on which Plummer 
Hall stands was once the property of Emanuel Downing, and has been the 
domicile of Gov. Bradstreet and the homestead estate of Hon. Nathan 
Reed, M. C. (inventor of a steam boat and nail machine) and of Joseph 
Peabody, at the time of its conveyance to the proprietors of the Athe- 
naeum. William H. Prescott, the historian, was born in the eastern cham- 
ber of the house which became in 1 799, the Peabody Mansion. The lower 
floor of Plummer Hall is occupied by the Essex Institute for its art and 
horticultural exhibitions, its lectures and public meetings, and also for 
that portion of its library devoted to national and state documents 
college reports, Essex County and other newspaper files, and sundry 
special libraries which are not in such general demand as those placed in 
its own building. 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 6;^ 

The Essex Institute, 132 Essex street. This society was incorpo- 
rated in 1848 having for its object the promotion of history, science 
and art in Essex County. It is supported by an annual assessment of 
$3 from each of its members now numbering 325, and by the income 
from its funds. These, however, being inadequate at all times to meet the 
expenditures required in carrying out its objects, the society has to de- 
pend upon subscriptions and gifts from friends and well wishers. The 
society was formed by the union of the Essex Historical and the Essex 
County Natural History societies. 

T/ie Essex Historical Society was incorporated in 1821 having for 
its leading object the collection and preservation of all authentic mate- 
rial illustrating the civil history of the county of Essex. The venerable 
Dr. Edward A. Holyoke, who always took the most lively interest in what- 
ever concerned American literature and science, was its first president. 
The zeal of the members and their friends, in a short time, gathered to- 
gether a valuable collection of portraits and relics illustrative of the early 
history of the county, and the nucleus of a library, containing files of 
local newspapers, pamphlets, etc. These were first housed in Essex 
place on Essex street facing Central, then in a room over tlie Salem Bank 
where Downing Block now stands, and afterwards in Lawrence Place, at 
the corner of Washington and Front streets. The society had on its roll 
of membership the names of many men of wide distinction such as 
Timothy Pickering, Benjamin W. Crowninshield, Nathaniel Silsbee, Na- 
than Dane, Daniel A. White, Rufus Choate, Leverett Saltonstall, Charles 
W. Upham, Stephen C. Phillips, Nathaniel Bowditch, Benjamin Pickman, 
Joseph B. Felt and others. 

Tiie Essex County Natural History Society was organized in 1833. It 
had at first a room in the second story of the building number 186 Essex 
street, opposite Central. The collection in the spring of 1834 was hardly 



64 visitor's guide to salem. 

large enough to fill a bookcase which had been given to the society. In 
1835, it moved into the fourth story of the Frankhn building, at the cor- 
ner of Washington square and Essex street, but this proving an unsuita- 
ble place it again moved in 1837, to the Masonic Hall on Washington 
street, where the Holyoke building now stands. Here the Museum oc- 
cupied a room 15 by 30 feet, adjoining a larger one used for meetings 
and lectures. The collections could be seen by visitors at the meetings 
of the society and at the horticultural exhibitions, which were at this time 
frequent and popular. In 1842, the society moved to the rooms in the 
Pickman building, 173 Essex street, formerly occupied by the East India 
Marine Museum. This building was altered in 1844 when a number of 
new cases were built and the collection re-arranged. A small room on 
the lower floor served as a laboratory for zoological and anatomical work, 
and was occupied much of the time by active members of the society. 
The Essex Institute at the time of its formation occupied the rooms 
of the above society at 173 Essex street, from which it moved in 1857 to 
the newly built Plummer Hall, where its museum was arranged in the 
lower story in the cases now used for books. About this time several 
young members of the Institute began the study of zoology with the el- 
der Agassiz at the then new museum in Cambridge. They were still of- 
ten in Salem and with their fellow students did much to improve the 
collections of the Institute and, in 1864, when several assistants left Cam- 
bridge they came to Salem and were employed part of the time at the 
Institute. In consequence of the activity of the Institute at this time 
in the study of natural history, and in collecting material for the forma- 
tion of a large and valuable zoological and ethnological museum, the at- 
tention of Mr. George Peabody of London was called to the advisability 
of placing these departments upon a permanent and substantial basis, 
which was done by his gift and the estabUshment in 1867 of the Peabody 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 65 

Academy of Science. 'Hie collections of the Institute were then trans- 
ferred to the care of the trustees of the Academy and the energetic group 
of workers in natural history which had given Salem quite a name as a 
scientific centre, connected themselves with that. institution. The efforts 
of the Institute since that time in advancing the cause of science have 
been confined to the publication in its Bulletin of articles relating to 
science and in aiding, through its field meetings and lectures, the spirit 
of research into matters connected with the natural history of the county. 
Contributions of specimens of a scientific nature which through members 
or others now come to the Institute are, under the arrangement with the 
Peabody xA.cademy of Science, deposited with that institution where they 
are properly cared for, labelled, and exhibited. Since 1867, therefore, 
the objects of the Essex County Natural History Society have been car- 
ried out by the Academy and the special work of the Essex Institute has 
been in the way of local history and genealogy along the lines laid down 
by the founders of the Essex Historical Society. It has been the aim 
of the Institute to bring together as large a collection as possible to illus- 
trate in every way the history of the county. A museum has been formed 
consisting of household and other utensils, illustrating the home life of 
the early settlers and those that followed them ; revolutionary and other 
war relics, portraits, manuscripts, and everything which in anyway can be 
considered as belonging to the different periods of the history of Salem 
and the County. In June, 1887, the Institute moved from Plummer 
Hall into its new^ building, T32 Essex street. This building was erected 
by Tucker Daland, a well-known merchant of Salem, in 185 1, and after- 
wards became the property of his son-in-law, Dr. Benjamin Cox, from 
whose heirs it was purchased by the Institute, the amount paid being 
taken from a fund bequeathed by the late William Barley Howes. Through 
the generosity of friends of the society the building was handsomely fitted 



66 visitor's guide to salem. 

for its new uses. The building, which is of brick with freestone trimmings, 
was designed by Gridley J. F. Bryant of Boston, and was planned after the 
model of the best type of houses built in the early part of this century 
with certain changes to suit it to modern ideas of comfort. It is there- 
fore finely proportioned, dignified in character and in keeping with the 
purposes for which it is now used. Entering the building the visitor is 
ushered into a good-sized hall, in which stands a clock of early Ameri- 
can make. On the walls hang the following paintings : "Interior" showing 
Japanese cabinet, old music books, etc. (this is a very old Dutch paint- 
ing and is interesting, not only from its artistic merit, but for the fidelity 
with which the articles of bric-a-brac are depicted) ; "Destruction of the 
ship Harvey Birch," an episode of the Civil War ; Scene from Henry 
VIII, after Peters by Mrs. Alpheus Hyatt. In the Secretary's office, on 
the left, can be seen a complete set of the pubHcations of the Institute ; a 
clock made by S. Hoadley, Plymouth (Conn.) ; a sketch of the City Seal 
by Ross Turner ; a fac-simile of an agreement to enlarge the First Church, 
1638, and a collection of engravings, photographs and manuscripts which 
are changed from time to time but are always of interest. Here, too, 
will be found the visitor's book for registry of names of those who desire 
to visit the First Church building in the rear. On the walls hang por- 
traits of the officers of the Essex Historical and Essex County Natural 
History societies, the forerunners of the Essex Institute (see hst of por- 
traits), also interesting examples of the naval architecture of the period 
of Salem's greatest activity in foreign trade, comprising water colors of 
the ships Trent, Governor Endicott, Erin, John, Hazard, Mt. Vernon, 
Leander, Patriot and Francis ; also three sketches of the schooner Baltic, 
1766, and the following paintings: The old Court House built in 1785, 
with a view of Washington street ; the launching of the ship Fame ; Crown- 
inshield's wharf, as it appeared during the embargo in 1806, painted by 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 67 

George Ropes, and a whaling scene in the South Atlantic painted by 
Benj. F. West of Salem. Above the mantel hangs the portrait, by Vinton, 
of the late president of the Institute, Dr. Henry Wheatland, the gift of his 
nephews the late Hon. Stephen G. Wheatland and Mr. George Wheat- 
land of Boston. 

Passing through an ante-room one notices a cast of the Rosetta stone, 
the original of which is now in the British museum. This stone was dis- 
covered in August, 1 799, near Rosetta, Lower Egypt. The three inscrip- 
tions are in three different languages — Hieroglyphic, Demotic (or lan- 
guage of the country) and Greek, being counterparts or repetitions of each 
other. They gave the main key and help to deciphering the hieroglyphics 
of Ancient Egypt. The event recorded is the decree issued at the cor- 
onation of Ptolemy Epiphanes, which took place at Memphis in the 
month of March 193 years before Christ. Here, also, are pictures of the 
ships Sooloo, Panay and Eliza ; the capture of the frigate Essex and a naval 
engagement between French and English Frigates, boththe work of George 
Ropes ; a water-color view of Mocha, in Arabia ; lithographs of Eynn 
and Salem ; views of the court house, 1830 ; St. Peter's Church, 1833 ; 
East and North churches ; All Saints Church, Wilts county, England, and 
Church of Little Waldingford, Suffolk county, England ; views of Pick- 
man house, 1744; Derby house, 1760; Roger Williams' house, 1635; 
Bradstreet house, 1700 ; Washington street, 1765 ; view of Harvard Col- 
lege, engraved by Paul Revere ; a view of Dartmoor prison, and a Na- 
poleon burlesque, with a large collection of silhouettes and engravings of 
well-known citizens. Fire buckets ornament the doorways, and a bit of 
stained glass from one of the old Italian churches will also attract notice. 
The visitor then enters the historical museum, which occupies two rooms. 
The first case on the right is devoted to wearing apparel, toys, articles 
of personal use, etc. ; the second contains pewter, glass, household im- 



68 visitor's guide to salem. 

plements, lamps, candle moulds, etc. ; the third contains tools, locks, 
models, etc. ; the fourth is devoted to marine models and instruments, a 
full-rigged ship in wood, whale's teeth engraved and ornaments made by 
sailors, and a two-hour glass used in pulpits in the old days to time the 
preaching ; the fifth, besides a coat of mail of the time of Cortez, con- 
tains weapons and military relics including several from Waterloo ', the 
sixth is devoted to the pottery collection — of special interest are the puz- 
zle pitcher, the Nelson and Washington pitchers, the silvered pottery, a 
Delft plate of 165 1, Lowestoft (really Oriental) ware, ginger jars of dif- 
ferent periods, undecorated Canton ware, old blue china and examples 
of European and Oriental ware, tiles and common Italian pottery. In 
the centre of the room, in case six, are miniatures, funeral rings, etc. ; 
in cases seven and eight are personal relics, such as gloves of Governor 
Leverett, sun dial of Governor Endicott, sampler wrought by Ann Gower, 
wife of Governor Endicott ; baptismal shirt of Governor Bradstreet ; 
waistcoat of Captain Haraden, of the time of the Revolution ; Napoleon 
relics, including coffee cup belonging to set used by him during the re- 
treat from Moscow ; watches of Rev. John Clarke, Captain Joshua John- 
son and William Cleveland ; canes used by George Jacobs, executed for 
witchcraft 1692 ; lock of the room in which Jefferson wrote the Declara- 
tion of Independence ; a padlock and key weighing two grains ; cherry- 
stone containing 113 silver spoons ; tea from the Boston Harbor Tea 
party. Case nine contains seals, including the original design made by 
Mr. George Peabody for the seal of the city of Salem, the Royal seal of 
Great Britain, German seals of 1525, seals of Pius VI, seal of Doge 
Morisini CVIII Doge of Venice, seals of local corporations, etc. Case 
ten is devoted to embroidery, Masonic and other emblems. Case eleven 
is devoted to manuscripts, including John Holyoke's scrap book, 1660; 
parchment deed of Charles Downing, 1700; sermons, 1638 to 1745, one 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 69 

preached by George Curwen at the First Church, 1716,011 a day of 
thanksgiving, for the succession of George First over the Pretender ; au- 
tographs of Washington, Lafayette, Lincohi, Gladstone, Benedict Arnold 
and others. On raised stands in the room will be found a collection of 
household utensils, such as cranes, including one from the house in which 
Hawthorne was born, fire backs, fire dogs, Dutch ovens, tobacco tongs, 
foot stoves, tin kitchens, toast racks, warming pans, coffee roasters, samp 
mortar, old Franklin stove, etc. On the walls are carvings by Macintire, 
window with the original leaded panes from the Buffum house ; vane, 
1 7 1 1 ; balusters from historic houses, sections of stairways, capitals, urns, 
dados, cornices and other articles of interest to antiquarians, architects and 
house decorators. The portraits in this room (see list of portraits) are of 
persons whose names are prominent in Salem's history. The larger room 
beyond is hung with historical portraits by Copley, Smibert, Trumbull and 
others (see list of portraits) . Here, also, will be found a piano, the first used 
m Topsfield, and made by Benjamin Crehore, of Milton, the first Amer- 
ican piano maker ; an early Clementi grand piano ; a Broadwood piano 
of 1 79 1, and a spinet made by Samuel Blyth, of Salem, supposed to be 
one of the earliest made in this country, and, besides, a model of a chest of 
drawers made previous to the Revolution by a member of the Cabot family ; 
lace frame in use in Ipswich previous to 1 790 ; American clock, T. Hoadley^ 
Plymouth, (Conn.) maker, and one made by Richard Manning, Ipswich, 
1767 ; a book stand used for keeping registry of arrivals of vessels, etc., 
in Pierce's City News room, Salem ; model of the old Becket house near, 
Phillips' wharf; a mosaic representing Vesuvius about 1820; models of 
tlie William Penn and Lafayette hose carriages ; a mill-stone brought from 
England 1630 by Lieut. Francis Peabody ; links of a chain stretched across 
the Hudson at West Point, during the Revolutionary war, to prevent 
passage of British ships ; wool, flax and clock reels ; tape looms ; quilting 



70 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

machines ; a design in plaster from front of the old Sun Tavern ; chair owned 
by Nathaniel Bovvditch ; rush bottom chairs from Trask house, about t 700 ; 
lacquered table brought from Japan by ship Franklin, the first Ameri- 
can vessel to visit that country ; stand for christening basin, in use at 
First Church, Salem, in 1691 ; model of stone arch at Harmony Grove 
cemetery, designed by Mr. Francis Peabody ; table in use by Orne family 
previous to 1800 ; child's cliair, about 1790 ; a sofa covered with tapes- 
try, brought from Normandy by a family of French Huguenots, who came 
to this country soon after the revocation of the edict of Nantes by Louis 
XIV in 1685 and for many years was in the possession of the family of 
John Appleton, of Salem ; an oaken chair of the time of Queen Elizabeth, 
one of a set of four belonging to the Farley family, of Ipswich, brought 
to this country in 1635 t>y the first immigrants of the Dennis family. In 
the centre of this room are upright cases, the first and second of which 
are devoted to the display of new accessions and loan collections. The 
third contains Revolutionary relics, powder horns and military equipments 
of local organizations. In the fourth will be seen a liquor case of i8ti ; 
a collection of fans ; an old English guitar ; death mask of Dante ; tape, 
pins, etc., in use previous to 1820 ; printing blocks of the 15th century ; 
colonial hardware, etc. The very large and valuable collection of manu- 
scripts belonging to the Institute are stored in a fire-proof room in the 
rear of the museum room. This collection, while not on exhibition to 
the public, is shown to persons interested in the study of local history, 
upon application made to the curator. It includes family papers, revo- 
lutionary documents, valuable autographs, commissions, sea letters, etc. 
In this room also can be seen the wood carvings by Macintire, which 
formerly adorned the gates of Salem Common, before the erection of the 
present iron fence. 

Admission is gained to the library and reading rooms on the second 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. ^t 

floor by passing up the main staircase, which is lined with portraits (see 
list of portraits) . Pmtering the library through the librarian's room, on the 
right, is found the room devoted to town histories, genealogies, the pub- 
lications of historical societies, etc. Here hangs a valuable oil painting 
presented to the Institute by the artist, Mr. Ross Turner, entitled the 
"Last Haven," representing the United States frigate Niagara as she lay 
at Charlestown previous to being condemned and broken up. The room 
adjoining contains biographies and books of travel, etc. ; here, over the 
mantel, is a painting by Mattison of the trial of George Jacobs for witch- 
craft in 1692, the costumes being considered faithful reproductions of 
those worn at that time. From this room opens a small room devoted 
to works of Essex county authors and files of local newspapers, from 
which one enters a room largely occupied by the classical library of the 
late D. A. White, formerly judge of probate, the first president of the Es- 
sex Institute, and one of its most devoted friends. Here will be seen a 
fine oil painting representing an incident in the War of the Roses, and 
entitled the "War Summons." Ihis picture was given to the Institute 
by the artist George Leslie, R. A., of London, as a tribute from him to 
the genius of Nathaniel Hawthorne. In the adjoining room is the art 
library, a well selected collection of books upon the different departments 
of the arts. Many of the most interesting of these were presented 
by the heirs of Mr. Francis Peabody, a former president, being selected 
from his large and valuable library. Here also is placed the China li- 
brary, which now numbers upwards of six hundred volumes, and is one 
of the best collections of the kind in the country. The remaining room 
on this floor is largely devoted to the library of the late Augustus Story, 
whose portrait in crayon hangs over the mantel, which was bequeathed 
to the Institute for purposes of reference, the books not being allowed 
to circulate. Here is an oil painting presented by the artist Miss Fidelia 



7i visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Bridges, and a very characteristic example of her work. These rooms 
are in constant use by members, not only for consultation of books but 
for reading, the tables being well supplied with daily and weekly papers 
and the leading monthly and quarterly magazines. Upon the third floor, 
which is not as yet open to the public, are located the scientific books 
and exchanges, the theological library, a collection of directories and 
many rare and valuable volumes. Among the treasures of the library 
these may be mentioned : Complete files of newspapers, possessing to 
the antiquary, the historical student and the conveyancer, a value hardly 
to be exaggerated — they include the Salem Gazette, Register and Obser- 
ver, Lynn Reporter, Danvers Courier, Peabody Press, Boston Advertiser, 
Post and Journal, the National Intelligencer, Liberator, Antislavery Stan- 
dard, Christian Register, with less complete files of the New York Post, 
Tribune and Herald, Commercial Advertiser, Independent, Columbian 
Centinel, Boston Transcript, Pennsylvania Packet and Philadelphia Au- 
rora ; a copy of Audubon's Birds of America, the gift of the late Mrs. 
Eliza L. Rogers, of Salem ; copies of the late J. Fisk Allen's splendidly 
ilhistrated folio monograph of the great water lily of the Amazon, the 
Victoria 7'egia ; a large paper copy of the rare folio History of the North 
American Indians, with biographies and hand colored portraits of one 
hundred and twenty leading chiefs, the gift of Mrs. Susan Burley Cabot, 
of Salem (this great collection in twenty parts, was issued to subscrib- 
ers only, between 1832 and 1844, and the pictures being copied from 
originals in oil, procured at great cost by the War Department, and, lost 
in the burning of a wing of the Smithsonian Institution, have become 
unique and valuable) ; volumes of English, Greek and Latin classics 
selected for the private library of the donor, the late Judge White, first 
president of the Essex Institute ; a collection of some three hundred 
Bibles and parts of Bibles of curious antiquity, including one, doubtless 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 73 

the oldest book in Essex county, dated before the discovery of America, 
in the year i486, a well preserved copy brought from a Carmelite Mon- 
astery in Bavaria and presented to the Institute by Rev. J. M. Hoppin 
October 2, 1858; a royal foho work on the Mexican war, published in 
1S5 7, with descriptions of each battle and twelve finely colored plates 
done at Paris, of the principal conflicts, the gift of Benj. W. Stone, Esq., 
of Salem ; four hundred log-books or sea journals, with shipmasters' in 
structions and correspondence, a part of them from the collection of the 
East India Marine Society, kept by members of the famous fraternity 
of shipmasters which established that society, and many others, detailing 
privateering cruises in the two wars with England, and every sort of dar- 
ing and exciting venture ; as extensive a collection of city directories 
from all parts of the world, state registers, college catalogues of New 
England, etc., as can be found in any library; Proceedings of two hun- 
dred and sixty-six societies, scientific, historical and literary, in all parts 
of the world, with which the Institute exchanges publications. 

The fire-proof rooms on the second and third floors are used for the 
storage of photographs, engravings, coins, medals, and collections of 
printed material of local interest. To these, admission can only be had 
upon application to the secretary or curator. The rooms of the Insti- 
tute and its collections of portraits, historical relics, etc., are open to 
visitors, and its library and reading rooms to members daily (except Sun- 
days and legal holidays), from 9 a. m. to 6 p. m. during the summer months 
and from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. in winter. Visitors to the old church can 
obtain the key on application to the secretary's oflice and registering 
their names in a book kept for that purpose. Visitors can obtain free, of 
the secretary, an itinerary giving a list of places in Salem of interest to visit, 
and circulars of information in regard to the Institute. A guide to the 
old church, pamphlets treating of scientific and historical subjects, and 



74 visitor's guide to salem. 

etchings of Salem houses are also for sale here. Public meetings of the 
Institute are held on Monday evenings at Plummer Hall during the winter, 
notices of which appear in the local papers. In summer, specially ap- 
pointed meetings are held in different parts of the county. The officers 
of the Institute are Edmund B. Willson, president ; William O. Chapman, 
treasurer; Charles S. Osgood, librarian, Henry M. Brooks, secretary. 

Every year many articles are destroyed in families which now or here- 
after may have an historical value, and, therefore, it is suggested that 
donations would be acceptable to the society for preservation in its cab- 
inets and archives of any of the following : Paintings, ship pictures, por- 
traits, miniatures, silhouettes, engravings, prints, photographs (especially 
of Essex County places and people), stamps, seals, coins and medals, 
theatre bills, concert programmes, bills of fare, all kinds of circulars, con- 
tinental and other currency, samplers and old needle work, old musical 
instruments, ancient furniture and clothing, old andirons, shovels and 
tongs, fire-buckets, warming-pans, old silver and metal spoons, old pew- 
ter, china and glassware, old watches and clocks, autographs and other 
manuscripts, old bills, letters and account books, books, pamphlets, 
newspapers, magazines, directories, etc. ; in fact all articles which now 
or may in the future throw light on the history of this county or country. 

The First Puritan Church organized in America was established in 
Salem in 1629 and the frame of its first Jiouse of worship, erected in 
1634, is now in possession of the Essex Institute and can be seen on ap- 
plication to the secretary as above. The venerable frame originally stood 
at or near the northeasterly corner of the present first church structure, 
Essex street. It was built in 1634, it is thought by one George Norton, 
a carpenter, who came out with Higginson in 1629. In 1639 ^^^^ 
building was enlarged and, on the erection of a second edifice in 1676, 
the original one was voted by the town to "be reserved for the town's use 



£' 




1 



Peabody Academy of Science (rear). 

Peabody Academy of Science (East Hall). 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 75 

to build a skoole house and watch house." The pubhc records prove 
that this building was in the town's use till 1760, but the minutes of the 
town's doings from May, 1760 to May 1764, are missmg, and from the 
first named date the history of the building is established by tradition. 
It appears probable that in the year 1760 the old building was disposed 
of and that Thorndike Proctor, who was at this time a conspicuous man 
in town affairs, selectman and moderator of town meetings, and Grand 
Juryman, bought the oldest part and reerected it on his own land, back 
of what is now Boston street, where it was used as a tavern or refresh- 
ment house. Here it slumbered undisturbed for a period of one hun- 
dred years, when through the liberality and under the direct supervision 
of Mr. Francis Peabody it was taken down in 1864 and removed to its 
present location. The frame was carefully preserved, restored to its orig- 
inal mortises and placed within a good external covering. The building 
is twenty feet in length by seventeen in width and has one gallery, which 
origmally was reached by a staircase. Tablets give the names of the 
pastors and the number of years each one occupied the pulpit. Here 
have also been placed on exhibition the following articles of historical in- 
terest : desk used by Hawthorne while at the custom house ; a desk used 
by the eminent merchant William Gray in his counting room ; the desk 
which Nathaniel Bowditch used when engaged in translating La Place's 
Mechanique Celestp ; a pew door from the meeting house of the First 
church in Hingham ; an old settle ; the communion table of the East 
church, Salem, used during the occupancy of the first house on the corner 
of Essex and Bentley streets ; christening stand from church in Topsfield, 
1700 ; child's seat used in pew of P'irst church, vSalem ; pew seats made 
of straw ; photographs of the different First church buildings, engrav- 
ings, etc. 

Peabody Academy of Science (i6i Essex St.). — The "Trustees of the 



76 visitor's guide to salem. 

Peabody Academy of Science " organized and became incorporated in 
1868, having received funds by gift in 1867 from George Peabody, of 
London, for the " Promotion of Science and Useful Knowledge in the 
County of Essex." Under the instrument of trust, East India Marine 
Hall, erected in 1824, was purchased and refitted to contain the Museum 
of the East India Marine Society, begun in 1799, and the Natural History 
and Ethnological Collections of the Essex Institute begun in 1834, all 
of which were received by the trustees as permanent deposits. To this 
foundation the trustees have added many valuable collections and another 
exhibition hall has been built to accommodate this growth of the museum. 

The Salem East India Marme Society was organized in 1 799, its 
membership being confined to "persons who have actually navigated the 
seas beyond the Cape of Good Hope or Cape Horn, as masters or super- 
cargoes of vessels belonging to Salem." Its objects were : — ''First, to 
assist the widows and children of deceased members . . . Second, to 
collect such facts and observations' as tend to the improvement and se- 
curity of navigation Third, to form a museum of natural and 

artificial curiosities, particularly such as are to be found beyond the Cape 
of Good Hope and Cape Horn." The museum was begun in November, 
1799, the first gift received being from Capt. Jonathan Carnes. It in- 
cluded several objects from Sumatra which are still in the possession of 
the museum and which, on account of the peculiar interest attached to 
them, are exhibited by themselves in the case containing the historical 
relics of the society. 

The museum was first arranged in the upper rooms of the Stearns 
'Building on the northeast corner of Essex and Washington streets and 
afterwards, in a hall especially prepared for its use in the old Bank Build- 
ing which occupied the present site of Downing Block, a few doors above 
its present location : this was in 1 804, and the collections increased rapidly 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUITONS, ETC. 77 

and the museum became crowded. During the height of Salem's com- 
mercial activity, twenty years later, East India Marine Hall was built, the 
lower floor to be occupied for business purposes and the Post Office, the 
large hall above to be devoted to the museum and the meetings and 
banquets of the society. This hall was dedicated in 1825, John Quincy 
Adams, then President of the United States, delivering the opening address. 
During this period the accessions to the ethnological department of the 
museum from the South Sea Islands, China, India, Africa and South 
America, were numerous and valuable, while at the meetings of the society 
there came together, socially, the travelled merchants and master mariners 
of Salem ; elegant suppers were served on the curved table which formerly 
occupied the centre of the hall and many distinguished guests were enter- 
tained. When the commerce of Salem declined the membership of the 
society decreased and it became unable properly to sustain the museum. 
During this latter period, also, the Essex Institute had accumulated a large 
and valuable collection of specimens of natural history which required 
much care and a large expenditure of money for its proper preservation 
and exhibition. 

In 1866 the attention of Mi'. George Peabody of London, then visiting 
in Salem, was called to the condition of the affairs of the two institutions; 
and in 1867, Mr. Peabody placed ^140,000.00 in the hands of several 
gentlemen whom he named and who under instructions, purchased 
East India Marine Hall, refitted it and were incorporated in 1868 as the 
Trustee •; of the Peabody Academy of Science, Mr. Francis Peabody of 
Salem being chosen as the first president. The expenditures of purchas- 

e East India Marine Hall and refitting it were met with $40,000 of the 
^ it, $100,000 remaining by instruction of the donor as a fund, the in- 
come only to be expended in conducting the affairs of the institution. 

iie miiseuii. of the East India Marine Society and the natural history 
7 



78 visitor's guide to salem. 

and ethnological collections of the Essex Institute having been deposited 
with -the new Board of Trustees and arranged by them in the cabinets of 
the refitted hall, the work of the East India Marine Society, under the 
second and third clauses of " The chief objects of the institution," closed.^ 
The value and importance of the work of the society were acknowledged 
by students, in the reports of government officials and were commented 
upon in autograph letters, now in the museum, from Presidents Jefferson 
and Madison, and the society printed, as early as 182 1, a catalogue of 
its museum which was even then arranged as a scientific collection. 

Although the East India Marine Society no longer conducts investiga- 
tions or maintains a museum, its charitable work, the first of the funda- 
mental objects at the time of its formation, is still continued, the in- 
come from its considerable funds being annually distributed for the ben- 
efit of unfortunate members or their families. 

The Trustees of the Peabody Academy of Science are William C. Endi- 
cott. President ; Abner C. Goodell, Jr., Secretary ; John Robinson, Treas- 
urer ; S. Endicott Peabody, George Cogswell, Henry L. Higginson, Elihu 
Thompson. The officers are Edward S. Morse, Director, John Robin- 
son, Treasurer, in charge of the museum, John H. Sears, curator of Min- 
eralogy and Geology. The offices are on the lower floor of East India 
Marine Hall, where all inquiries in regard to the collections and work of 
the Academy should be made and where letters should be addressed. 
(See circular of information, for free distribution at the museum.) 

The Academy has published several scientific memoirs, besides annual 
reports containing much valuable matter in relation to natural history. 
A summer school of biology was sustained for six years and classes in 
botany and zoology have been conducted in the winter months. In 1885, 

iFor a full account of the East India Marine Society, sec Hurd, Hist. Essex Co., Vol. I, p. 175. 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 79 

the collections having outgrown their accommodations, the trustees made 
a large addition to the building for the purpose of placing the invaluable 
ethnological objects in a fire-proof room. On the lower floor of this 
addition the space was utilized for a lecture room which was opened as 
"Academy Hall" on Feb. 12, 1886. Since the opening of this hall the 
trustees have established courses of lectures which are given on afternoons, 
the admission fee being nominal. Under this arrangement, sixty-six lec- 
tures upon subjects of natural history and ethnology have been delivered. 
The hall is also rented for lectures, concerts and readings of a suitable 
character. In October, 1889, the new east hall was completed by the 
trustees and opened to the public. The accommodations for the museum 
were thus nearly doubled and safety from fire secured for many valuable 
collections. 

The Museum of the Academy. As now arranged the collections of 
the Academy may be summarized as follows : — 

1. A nearly complete collection of the animals and minerals of Essex 
County arranged in the cases at the northern end of the first hall. A col- 
lection of woods of the trees of Essex County and one of the prehistoric 
relics of the county in the gallery cases. A large collection of the dried 
plants of the county in cabinets in the lower rooms, which may be con- 
sulted by students upon application at the office. 

2. A synoptical collection illustrating the animal kingdom from the 
lowest to the highest forms, arranged and labelled according to the text- 
books in common use in our schools and colleges. This collection is at 
the southern end of the hall excepting the insects which are arranged 
in the rail cases in the gallery. Letters upon the cases indicate the order 
in which it should be examined. 

3. A type collection of minerals illustrating the edition of Dana's 
Mineralogy, used in our schools, arranged in the central gallery case. 



8o visitor's guide to SALEM. 

4. A collection, arranged by countries, of objects illustrating the every- 
day life, dress and religious customs, the implements of war and of do- 
mestic use, and objects of art of the native races of China, Korea, Japan, 
India, Africa, Polynesia, North and South America, etc., arranged in the 
new east hall. 

5. An historical collection of portraits of prominent Salem mer- 
chants, members and officers of the East India Marine Society, to- 
gether with many interesting relics connected with the early social 
character of that institution, and models and pictures of Salem merchant 
vessels. These form an interesting memorial of the commercial history 
of Salem. 

As far as possible, all of the specimens in tlie museum are clearly 
marked with their names and the locality from which they were obtained 
and cards, giving the author's name, title and call number of books in the 
Salem Public Library containing information pertaining to various portions 
of the collections, will be found appended to many of the objects in the 
cases. The arrangement of the museum is intended to be educational^ 
and not merely for the purpose of exhibiting curiosities. It is especially 
designed as an aid in connection with school work, and the officers of the 
museum will gladly assist teachers and classes in the examination of the 
collections, if notified beforehand of intended visits. It is suggested 
that classes of twenty-five or less gain much more information than 
when the number is larger, and hence the desirability of visits by small 
classes. 

The museum is open free to the public every week day from 9 a. m. 
to 5 o'clock p. M., and on Sundays from 2 to 5 p. m. The average num- 
ber of visitors has been over 45,000 annually during the last five years. 
The officers of the Academy intend that the public shall receive every 
possible advantage consistent with the instrument of trust, and they also 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. Ol 

hope that all persons who are able to do so will aid them by contributing 
toward the increase and improvement of the collections which have al- 
most wholly been received by gift. The publications of the Academy, the 
Salem Guide containing an historical sketch of the museum, etc., may 
be obtained of the constable in the hall, who will also direct visitors 
where any special collection may be found. Those who desire infor- 
mation regarding the specimens, or in relation to scientific subjects, 
should inquire at the office or request the constable to call some ofiicer 
of the Academy. 

Guide to the collections in the Museum of the Academy. Entering the 
door from Essex street the visitor passes through the long entry leading 
to the stairway to the exhibition hall. Here are arranged some large casts 
of extinct animals, jaws of the sperm whale, and a number of chama shells 
( Chama gigas) f the largest of all bivalves, one pair of which was included 
in the first gift to the museum in 1799 by Capt. Jonathan Carnes. In 
the vestibule by the stairway is a beautifully designed terra-cotta tablet 
placed to the memory of the late Caleb Cooke, a former assistant and cu- 
rator of the Academy, who was associated with the institution from its or- 
ganization. Ascending the stairs the visitor will find himself in the older 
hall. At his left the entire southern portion of the room is filled by the 
general zoological collections while, at his right, the northern portion is 
devoted to the natural history collections of Essex County. This is the 
largest and most complete collection to be found in any museum in the 
country from so limited an area.^ 

The Essex County Collectio7is. The formation of a collection illus- 
trating every species of the animals, plants and minerals of the county, 



1 Essex County contains 520 square miles. Maps of the county and of Salem and its 
neighborhood will be found in the hallway near the entrance. 



82 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

as well as relics of its prehistoric inhabitants, was one of the first aims 
of the Essex County Natural History Society, the forerunner of the Es- 
sex Institute, and the labors in this direction have been continued by the 
Institute, and later by the Academy for sixty years. 

Minerals and Rocks of Essex County. The first wall case at the 
right contains the minerals and rocks of the county. This collection 
has been brought together by Mr. John H. Sears, during the past five 
years, while engaged in a systematic survey of the county in behalf of the 
Academy. The collection includes some seven hundred and fifty speci- 
mens of the minerals and rock formations. To illustrate their practical 
value in the arts and for building purposes one hundred specimens of the 
rocks are represented by polished specimens placed beside those of the 
same rock showing the natural fracture. As far as possible the arrange- 
ment of the minerals follows Dana's Text-book of Mineralogy ; that of the 
rocks, Geikie's Text-book of Geology. Each specimen is clearly labelled 
and, in some instances, thin sections of the rocks prepared for microscopic 
study and enlarged prints from micro-photographs are placed upon the 
tablets. As this collection contains specimens of rock formations and 
minerals of rare occurrence (see Chapter on Natural Objects of Interest), 
it will repay a careful examination. 

The Mammals of Essex County. The sections of the case opposite 
the collections of minerals and rocks contain the mammals of the county, 
of which there are many rare and interesting specimens. These include 
two wild cats shot in the county in 1 821 and 1832, fine specimens of 
the fox, mink, otter, raccoon, porcupine, skunk, the mice, bat, squirrels 
and hares, both the common gray and the rarer white species. A large 
number of albinos will be noticed in this collection. 

Directly over this case, suspended from the ceiling, is the skeleton of 
a "black-fish" which belongs to the family of whales. This particular 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 83 

specimen was obtained in 1873, having become stranded near the Essex 
bridge, between Salem and Beverly, where it was shot by the late Capt. 
Charles Osgood. 

The Birds of Essex County. Next in order are the county birds. 
This collection is very large and includes the resident species and a large 
number of very rare visitors. The collection of water birds obtained 
along the seashore, and that of the birds of prey, are very full and many 
of the specimens exceedingly fine. The nests and eggs of resident 
species are placed with the stuifed specimens of the birds wherever pos- 
sible. Among the rarer birds are the sooty tern, crested cormorant, least 
bittern, American egret, marbled godwit, purple gallinule, clapper rail, 
long-billed curlew, golden eagle, swallow-tailed kite, turkey buzzard, great 
gray owl, American barn owl, Canada jay, evening grosbeak, Louisiana 
tanager, summer red bird, several rare warblers and interesting albinos 
of the American robin, barn swallow, black snow bird and ruffled grouse. 
The nests and eggs of the county birds are placed upon the floor of the 
case immediately beneath the species to which they belong and a yellow 
card with the bird indicates those whose nests and eggs are included in 
the collection. The names on the labels of the collection of birds, and 
as far as possible the arrangement of the species, follow the check list of 
The American Ornithologists' Union. 

The Fishes and Reptiles of Essex County. The case on the western 
wall contains the fishes and reptiles of the county including sharks, the 
sturgeon, the tunny fish, angler, cod and a large number of smaller species, 
both from the seacoast and the ponds and rivers of the county. Among 
the reptiles are the rattlesnake and several other species of the family of 
serpents, the large pond turtle and, largest of all, the great leather back 
turtle, the specimen in the case having been taken in a fishing net at Rock- 
port during the summer of 1885. 



84 visitor's guide to salem. 

The Invertebrates of Essex County. Opposite to the fishes are 
the lower forms of animals, chiefly obtamed in the ocean and along the 
shore ; the sponges, the sea-urchins, star-fish, marine worms and shells 
of the seashore and land mollusks. The Crustacea follow these in order 
and include one lobster which when taken weighed twenty-five pounds. 
A lobster is also shown in the process of moulting as well as the dis- 
carded shell, and some of the so-called "blue lobsters" will be found in 
this case. There are good specimens of the ''soft shelled" crab and 
several of the sea crabs. Beyond are some beautiful nests of the paper- 
making wasp, one of which is built around a box previously occupied by 
the English sparrow. ^ The Brooks collection of county lepidoptera is 
in the western gallery and the other insects of the county will be found 
among the specimens in the general collection in the rail cases of the 
central gallery. 

The Essex County Botanical Collections. In the gallery, directly 
over the case containing the fishes, is the collection of woods and fruits 
of the trees and shrubs of the county. The specimens are as large as 
the limits of the cases will permit. All of the native trees are represented 
and a large number of extensively introduced species. The collection 
is illustrated by the plates from Emerson's "Trees and Shrubs of Massa- 
chusetts," Dame and Brooks' ^'Typical Elms and other Trees," and from 
other sources. The labels follow Gray's Manual of Botany, the sixth 
edition. The dried plants are kept in the class room where, also, such 
botanical books as may be required are to be found and microscopes for 
special examinations. The plants of Essex county are mounted on up- 

1 Suspended from the ceiling above this case are the jaw bones of the sperm and right 
whales. The former was brought from tlie South Seas and was taken from an animal es- 
timated to be over eighty feet long; the latter was taken from a dead whale which washed 
ashore on Baker's Island in Salem harbor. 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 85 

wards of four thousand sheets of paper and are arranged in cabinets. 
The flowering plants, inckiding the grasses, and the ferns and the algae are 
represented by copious specimens. Such foreign plants as may be of ser- 
vice for general study are preserved, but no attempt is made to form a 
large collection outside of the county species. There are, however, good 
collections of the grasses of North America, mosses of Europe, ferns and 
sea-weeds. These collections may be examined by calling upon any 
officer of the museum. 

The prehisio7'ic Relics of Essex County. The prehistoric relics of 
the county will be found in the gallery directly over the collection of min- 
erals and rocks. This collection is very large and is worthy of a very care- 
ful examination. Among the surface finds, the axes, gouges, knives and 
spear and arrow points are especially fine. The objects from graves and 
shell-heaps are not only numerous but of great rarity. All of the specimens 
are fully explained by the labels. At the foot of the stairs from the gal- 
lery is a large stone mortar found at an Indian village site near the Ips- 
wich river in Middleton. It weighs 1022 pounds and is too large to be 
placed with the other objects in the gallery cases. These prehistoric 
relics are supposed to be the work of the tribes of Algonquin Indians 
which inhabited this region, or were obtained by them from more distant 
tribes in warfare or by barter, before the coming of the white man as a 
permanent resident to these shores. But many of the specimens found 
in graves, associated with undoubted Indian skeletons, such as beads of 
European make, brass trinkets and copper cooking pots, clearly indicate 
connection with European people. These objects were undoubtedly ob- 
tained during the sixteenth and early portions of the seventeenth centuries 
and are, therefore, about 250 to 350 years old. Many of the objects of 
purely native workmanship may be much older and some may have been 
the work of a race of people which occupied the land before the advent 



86 visitor's guide to salem. 

of the red Indians. This older race is supposed by some writers to have 
been the stock from which the present Esquimaux have descended and 
that they were driven northward by the more aggressive race of red In- 
dians who advanced from the south and west. 

The General Zoological Collections. Directly opposite to the main 
entrance to the hall is a case containing a fine specimen (male) of the 
now rare American bison which was received during the summer of 
1887 from tiie Smithsonian Institution. It was captured by a special ex- 
pedition, at Porcupine Creek, Montana. Passingto the left, just beyond 
the case containing the bison, to the wall case, are the general zoological 
collections. Beginning with the lowest infusorial form, by passing along 
the line of cases, as indicated by the letters of the alphabet on the doors 
of the sections, the visitor will follow out in a gradual rising order the 
arrangement of the collection, ending with the highest form, represented 
by the human skeletons. This collection illustrates the animal kingdom 
in synopsis. It is not intended to show the different species, but to in- 
struct visitors by means of type specimens in the methods of classification 
by the natural system. The collection is designed to be of especial ser- 
vice to students and teachers of zoology. Many of the groups are illus- 
trated by outline drawings and glass models of perishable specimens. 
The most striking features of the collection may be briefly mentioned : 
a very fine collection of corals, particularly rich in East Indian species 
and fan corals ; a collection of mollusks, the largest portion of which for 
want of exhibition space, is kept in cases in the lower room, only accessible 
to students ; an excellent collection of snakes and turtles ; a good represen- 
tation of the families of birds ; a collection of marsupials, from Australia ; 
and a collection of mammals, including stuffed specimens, skeletons and 
skulls of the principal orders. The larger part of these specimens were 
received from the Essex Institute in 1867. 




iff tit 4?hI^ i*a; ,m^ iJ 



jiil!iii!illi3.i!i 




Peabody Academy of Science (Natural History Collections). 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 87 

School Collection of Minerals, There is in the central gallery case, 
an educational collection of minerals and rocks, for the use of the teach- 
ers and students of mineralogy. The collection includes some six hun- 
dred specimens from all parts of the world and is arranged and labelled 
according to the edition of Dana's Mineralogy used in the schools of 
Essex County. This collection is much consulted and has proved a val- 
uable aid to school work. 

Animal Locoifwtion. The Academy received, through the Essex In- 
stitute, thirty plates illustrating animal locomotion. These plates were 
selected from the well-known Muybridge collection and, besides the 
movement of man, illustrate movements of species of nearly all the im- 
portant orders of mammals and birds. Each plate contains from twelve 
to twenty- four instantaneous, successive views of the subject making 
one complete movement and, together, are very interesting and instruc- 
tive. They are exhibited in the southwestern gallery case. 

Prehisto7-ic Relics from New Jersey, etc. The collection of prehis- 
toric relics from regions outside of Essex County will be found in the 
rail case on the eastern gallery. Among these are the original pal- 
eolithic implements found by Dr. C. C. Abbott in the drift gravel in New 
Jersey, and, also, the collection of surface relics from the same region 
which are described by that author in his works entitled "The Stone Age 
in New Jersey" and "Primitive Industry." 

[The objects from ancient Egypt and those from Europe, for which 
case room has not yet been provided in the new hall, are tempora- 
rily arranged in this gallery as well as a number of objects from Jap- 
an.] 

2 he East Hall: Ethnological Collections. At the southeast corner 
of the old hall is the entrance to the new "East Hall" which was de- 
signed to contain the ethnological collections of the Academy. It was 



88 visitor's guide to salem. 

opened to the public during October, 1889. These collections were 
begun by the East India Marine Society in 1 799, and include many val- 
uable objects obtained during the succeeding half century by the mem- 
bers of that organization, to which the objects received from the Essex 
Institute in 1867 made important additions. Since that date, these col- 
lections have been more than doubled by the trustees of the Academy 
who have endeavored to obtain specimens which should complete the 
series so that it should as far as possible fairly represent the life, handi- 
work and arts of the native races of every portion of the world. The 
name of each country represented will be seen upon large tablets over 
each case and all the specimens are, in addition, clearly marked with name 
of the object and locality from which it was obtained. 

India. Entering the East Hall, at the right are the objects from India. 
In the first case is a group of life-size clay figures of Indian merchants with 
whom the merchants of Salem had commercial relations in the early part 
of the century. There are, besides^ in this case, figures of clerks, priests, 
mendicants and a snake charmer and there is also a full-size portrait fig- 
ure of "Nasavangee," a Bombay '^Parsee" merchant, modelled from life, 
especially for him, as a gift to the East India Marine Society. The ad- 
joining case contains smaller figures, from eight to twelve inches high, 
illustrating men and women of the different castes and pursuing occu- 
pations as seen in the streets of Calcutta. All of the larger figures are 
accurate likenesses of the persons they represent. These cases also con- 
tain specimens illustrating the manufactures of India and numerous ar- 
ticles of domestic use, conspicuous among which are many elegant 
"Hookahs" together with the "bubble bubbles" or water pipes used by 
the lower classes, and the "chebooks," several of which have stems six 
feet in length. Near the first case is a carved wooden column from 
Burmah, a religious monument made in honor of the dead. An excel- 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 89 

lent collection of idols and emblems of the native faiths will be found in 
the second case and, in the centre of the hall, beneath the frame hold- 
ing the models of vessels, is a palanquin, formerly a common vehicle of 
travel in India, borne on the shoulders of four bearers, which was pur- 
chased in Calcutta, in 1803, by several Salem merchant captains who 
chanced to meet there, and who sent it home as a gift to the East India 
Marine Society. 

Africa and Arabia. In the second and third cases are the objects 
from Arabia and Africa, including Arabian and Algerian rifles and bri- 
dles of beautiful workmanship. One long rifle with an inlaid stock 
was the gift of Col. Timothy Pickering. Many of the knives and spears 
in this and the African collections are important as illustrating a distinc- 
tive character of these people. Among the African objects the "tom- 
toms" or drums, carved from a soft wood, at once attract attention ; with 
these is a most remarkable fetish, the gift of Mr. T. C. W. Nash. Some 
of the most interesting objects will be found in the section devoted to 
the sacrificial knives, charms, spears, bow and arrows of the wonderful 
dwarf race, etc., from the upper Congo collected by Mr. E. J. Glave, an 
assistant of Stanley, while on the great expedition "through darkest Af- 
rica." These are the gift of the president of the Peabody Academy, Mr. 
W. C. Endicott, and have recently been added to the collection. There 
are many "gre-grees" or charms used by native priests, and fine mats, 
native cloth, and carved wooden seats made from a single block of wood. 
Models of "dhows" from Africa wifl be found among the vessels on the 
frame in the centre of the hall and, also, a curious model made by the 
natives of the west coast of Africa, illustrating their conception of an 
American vessel. 

Polynesia. One of the most valuable collections in the museum is 
undoubtedly that frorn the South Sea Islands. Begun before civilization 



90 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

had reached these far-oif regions, the specimens are free from the effect 
of European contact and their genuineness is assured. The implements 
of war and domestic use, and the primitive fishing hooks and Unes, 
are now nearly everywhere replaced by those of European make and, 
in some cases, the people who made many of these objects have as 
tribes become extinct. This collection is replete in long war clubs, 
hand clubs, carved and ornamented batons, spears, paddles, adzes, etc. 
A fine assortment of fishing hooks, lines and spears, and another of plain 
and extensively ornamented and printed cloths and braided tunics are 
shown besides ma,ny unique head ornaments, wigs, necklaces, bracelets of 
pearl, shell, ivory and hair. There are a large number of fans, models 
of temples and boats, carved ornaments for canoes, carved boxes and 
several fine specimens of the "kava" bowls which were used to hold the 
fermented drinks made by the natives of Tahiti, Fiji and other of the 
South Sea Islands. On the floor, at the southern end of the hall, stands 
the Hawaiian god of medicine ''Koila Moku," which for many years was 
erected on a tall post upon a plain, surrounded by the bones of those who 
had crawled thither to seek relief. Among the objects from the section 
devoted to Micronesia are the curious spears and swords mounted with 
sharks' teeth from the Gilbert Islands and the suits of fibre armor worn 
by the natives to protect themselves from these cruel implements of 
war. Some fine Australian boomerangs are also shown and the narrow 
shields used in warding them off when thrown against the person. The 
Austrahan clubs and those from the Marquesas Islands are of great rar- 
ity and there are, also, models of vessels from Fiji, New Zealand and 
other places, showing the use of the "out rigger." The stone imple- 
ments in this collection mounted in wooden handles brings us directly in 
contact with the stone age of these people, and they serve well to illus- 
trate the manner in which similar stone objects, now found among the 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 9 1 

prehistoric relics of our own region, may have been mounted for use. 
The interesting series of objects from New Guinea in this portion of the 
collection were recently obtained for the museum. 

North America. The visitor will now have passed to the eastern side 
of the hall and will find in the next section the objects originating with 
the races of Esquimaux and Indians of North America. A large part 
of the objects of this group, numbering nearly one thousand, were re- 
ceived within a few years from the Smithsonian Institution at Washington. 
The previous absence of objects from North America in large numbers 
is not remarkable when it is considered that Salem merchants were trad- 
ing with almost every foreign country, while few travelled in their own ; 
nor at that time, were objects of native American workmanship thought 
to be of sufficient interest to ensure their preservation. As now ar- 
ranged, the North American collection exhibits models of Esquimaux 
boats, clothing, bows and arrows, implements used in the capture of 
seal and those relating to domestic life. The central and southern In- 
dians are represented by costumes, bows and arrows, belts, knives, bas- 
ket work and veritable scalps, one of the latter evidently having been 
taken from an unfortunate white woman. Some of the most interesting 
objects of this collection are the effectively decorated pottery vessels of 
the Zuni and Moqui tribes, many of which are quite large and all pos- 
sess much ethnological value. Other objects relating to the domestic and 
religious life of these people will be seen in the collection and will repay 
a careful examination. A full sized ''Kiak" used by the Esquimaux in 
capturing seal and for other aquatic purposes, and a canoe of Indian work- 
manship from Nova Scotia, made from a single piece of birch bark, will 
be found on the frame of models of vessels in the centre of the hall. 
The collection of implements and other objects of stone, bone and clay, 
illustrating the stone age in North America, as previously stated, is ar- 
ranged in a rail case in the eastern gallery of the old hall. 



92 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Mexico. Mexico is represented by clothing, saddles, casts of idols, 
etc., and a collection of beautifully executed figures of native workman- 
ship, illustrating the trades, casts and customs of the native people. 

South America. The most characteristic objects in this collection 
are the feather-work caps, head-dresses and feather trimming from Bra- 
zil, which includes a beautifully woven hammock with the Brazilian 
coat of arms at the sides worked in feathers, and the models of "cata- 
marans" or native rafts. The vases, jars and bottles from the ancient 
graves of Peru, in the last case, are of great antiquity and show infinite 
variety of form. There are several twin whistling jars in the collection ; 
by blowing in the mouth of one jar a shrill whistle is produced in its 
mate. 

Japan. Passing to the gallery of the East Hall, at the left, on the west- 
ern side, are arranged the objects from Japan. This collection was largely 
formed by the director. Prof. E. S. Morse, during his last visit to Japan, a 
portion however, being received in exchange for specimens from the Ed- 
ucational Museum at Tokio. There are sets of tools of trade workers 
and artisans, besides a large number of objects illustrating almost every de- 
partment of Japanese ethnology. Since this date the collection has been 
largely augmented by donations from Mr. J. F. Almy, Mr. Tejima, Mr. 
Yamada, Mr. W. G. Webb, Mr. Matsuki, from the private collection of 
the director Mr. Morse, and particularly from Dr. Charles G. Weld, who 
contributed a large and valuable collection of objects obtained by him in 
Japan some years since. The objects in the collection are classified in 
accordance with the system adopted by the Leipsic Ethnological Museum, 
this arrangement being followed, as far as possible, in the other ethnologi- 
cal collections of the Academy. In the first section are the life size fig- 
ures illustrating the Samurai and the peasant classes of society and the 
warrior in full suit of armor of the period previous to the restoration of 
the Mikado. These figures are very beautifully made and costumed. 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 93 

The Samurai family consists of a gentleman and his wife with their giri 
and boy ; the peasant family of a farmer and wife, who carries upon her 
back their infant. The warrior is clothed in a gorgeous suit of armor, 
and wears upon his head a helmet surmounted by a lofty set of carved 
antlers. These are followed by a collection of upwards of thirty varieties 
of swords, many of very beautiful workmanship and of great age, and 
collections of sword hilts and small knives. Farther on are military hats, 
bows, arrows, war pikes, spears and officers' battle signals. A Japanese 
clock which indicates hours by the falling weight is also seen in the first 
section. In the second section are to be found many interesting and 
valuable objects from Japanese temples, household shrines, charms, a fine 
seated figure of Buddha and a carrying shrine used in processions. In the 
fourth section are a collection of shoes, some beautiful illustrations of 
lacquered ware and dresses. In the table case at the southern end of 
the gallery are many small objects illustrating the pottery, lacquer work, 
and other industries and customs of the Japanese, besides some very 
curious carvings and other objects from the Ainos of Yesso. The collec- 
tion of tools in the second case is very complete and includes those of 
the carpenter, ivory carver, lantern maker, lacquerer, stone cutter, ribbon 
maker, and implements of the fisherman, the models of a silk loom, etc. 
The collection of clothing is quite full, and that illustrating the household, 
besides pretty models of the kitchen and tea room, contains nearly all 
the articles of daily domestic use fitly represented. Among the musical 
instruments are several of beautiful design and rare workmanship ; this is 
the most complete of any department of this collection. There are also 
beautiful models of Japanese "junks," and a "Jinriksha," the last named 
given by Mr. James F. Almy. The Japanese objects previously possessed 
by the museum, although few in number, included several trays, cups 
and tea pots brought from Nagasaki in 1802, by Captain Samuel G. 



94 



visitor's guide to SALEM. 



Derby, in the ship "• Margaret," which were probably the first Japanese 
articles ever brought directly to this country. ^ This old collection, to- 
gether with the recent additions, makes an exhibit in the department of 
Japanese ethnology unequalled in this country, and probably not excelled 
in many foreign museums. 

Korea. Passing to the eastern gallery of the hall, the first section con- 
tains the objects from Korea. The larger part of this collection was 
gathered for the museum by Count Von MoUendorff in 1883, who was 
at that time at Seoul, the capital of Korea, in the service of the German 
government. Additions have since been received by gift from Mr. Per- 
cival Lowell, and Mr. Yu Kil Chun, a native of Korea, for some time a 
student at Salem. The collection includes dresses, ornaments, weapons, 
articles of domestic use, pottery, porcelain, etc. The brass utensils are 
peculiar to this country and should be carefully examined. This is the 
largest collection of similar objects from Korea in any museum in this 
country. 

Malaysia^ etc. Condensed into one section, opposite to that containing 
the objects from Korea, are the collections from the regions of the Indian 
Archipelago. The most remarkable objects in this case are the numerous 
bronze figures of unknown origin found in a ruined temple in Java. 
They illustrate a variety of subjects and, as they include figures evidently 
intended for Dutch soldiers, tliey are probably about 200 years old al- 
though some of the figures may be much older. Among the objects from 
Anam is a curious charm hung up in houses as a protection against "the 
devil" and a bow used to discharge balls of fire into the air for a similar 
purpose. In the table case at the centre of the southern end of the gal- 
lery will be found many beautiful specimens of the Malay creises and cut- 

lA picture of the ship Margaret will be found or the north wall, lower floor, of the East 
Hall, and references to accounts of this voyage to Japan. 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 95 

lasses, one of the latter being a gift to Captain Endicott, of Salem, from 
the Rajah Po Adam, by whom Captain Endicott was befriended when 
his vessel the "Friendship," was captured by natives on the Sumatra 
coast nearly sixty-five years ago. As creises are now made in England 
in imitation of those of native workmanship and are sold to the Malays 
by traders, this collection of early native creises is of great interest as 
genuine objects of Malayan art. 

China, The remaining sections of the cases in the eastern gallery are 
devoted to the objects from China, one of the first countries to be rep- 
resented in the museum. One section contains two life-size models of 
Chinese men dressed in complete suits of native clothing, although the 
heads and hands of the figures were carved by the noted Salem carvers, 
Macintire and True. In one section are idols, models of tombs and 
pagodas cut from a red soapstone. In one large gilded idol of wood, 
taken from a fort on the Canton river, was secreted a silver charm of 
which there is an interesting translation. The collection of musical instru- 
ments is particularly fine, nearly all of those used by the Chinese being 
found here. The visitor should notice the carved ivory spheres, of which 
there are two specimens, where, to the number of twenty, they are cut to 
revolve one within another, the kites and toys, the articles of food and 
the boats, of which there are many excellent models, including one of 
the '7unk" so familiar in all accounts of China. There is, of special 
interest, an opium set contributed by the late Mr. William Dolan of Hong 
Kong, including the pipe, tools for handling the opium, lamp, and 
cushion to recline upon. There is also a loom for making straw matting ; 
a collection illustrating the native materia medica of China, including 
some 200 different specimens, not all of which are on exhibition, and 
a collection illustrating Chinese dentistry and one of models from life 
of compressed feet of the Chinese ladies, contributed by Dr. George 



g6 VISirOR'S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

O. Rogers. A large Chinese lantern will be seen suspended from the 
ceiling at the southern end of the hall and two curious Chinese cannon 
will be found in the centre of the hall, beneath the frame of models of 
vessels, one of which is mounted on a truck and frame of camphor wood. 
Two large pottery tanks near these, also from China, illustrate the great 
size which it is possible to make objects of clay. 

Egypt. Objects from ancient tombs, portion of mummies, amulets, 
manuscripts, etc. [See central gallery case in old hall] 

Europe. Objects from ancient Rome, Greece, Phoenicia, and modern 
objects of domestic use among the peasants of Italy, Germany, etc. [See 
central gallery case in old hall.] 

Models and Faifitings of Vessels. In the centre of the floor of the 
East Hall, in addition to the large objects previously referred to, are sev- 
eral full-rigged models of vessels of much interest. These are preserved, 
together with a large number of the models of the hulls and numerous 
paintings of Salem vessels arranged on the southern wall beneath the 
gallery, as memorials of the early commercial history of Salem, an ap- 
propriate reminder of the work of the East India Marine Society with 
whose members nearly every vessel represented may be associated. This 
collection contains full-rigged models of the ship Friendship built in 
1786, the brig Camel, captured from the British during the war of 181 2, 
the United States frigates Constitution and Ohio, the brig Rising States, 
owned by William Gray in 1802, an American ship of 1840, old and 
modern fishing schooners, a brigantine, the first pilot boat and modern 
sloop yachts. There is also a model showing the temporary rudder con- 
structed on the ship Ulysses, by means of which the vessel was saved af- 
ter losing its original rudder in a terrific gale. There are hull models of the 
ships Delphos, first and second Sooloo, Australia, Siren, Shirley, Europa, 
Malay, Sumatra, Panay, Thomas Perkins, St. Clair ; brigs Romp, M. Shep- 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 97 

ard and Persia ; barks Cynthia, La Plata and Delight, and schooner Dic- 
tator. There are pictures, oil paintings and water colors, of the ships 
Prudent, Eliza Ann, Margaret, Tartar, Tybee, Bombay, Grocius, Sooloo, 
Friendship, Siam, Australia, Henry Tuke, Propontis, Hazard, George, 
America, Malay, Derby, Highlander, Sumatra, Shirley, Panay, Witch 
of the Wave and John Bertram ; barks Eliza, Edward Koppisch, Chal- 
cedony and William Schroder ; brigs Nereus, Centurion and Acorn ; 
topsail schooner Plato ; all of Salem, and the celebrated frigate Essex built 
by Enos Briggs of Salem in 1799. Many of the vessels in these lists 
have famous histories and a large number of them are of early date, in- 
cluding several which made the first voyages of any American vessels to 
ports in India, China, Sumatra and other distant countries. 

Portraits. The collection of portraits include many of the leading 
Salem merchants in the days of Salem's commercial period and mem- 
bers of the East India Marine Society, a full list of which will be found 
in another chapter of this Guide (see list of portraits). The portraits are 
arranged on the northern and southern walls of the East Hall and have 
descriptive labels placed upon them. 

Relics of the East India Marine Society. In the cases on the 
northern end of the gallery of the East Hall are preserved the relics of 
the early history of the East India Marine Society. The case in the 
centre contains the punch bowls, and the large soup tureens made in the 
form of swans, used at the banquets of the society. One of the punch 
bowls was made in Canton, China, in 1786, to celebrate the first voyage 
of a Salem ship, the ''Grand Turk," to that port, a representation of the 
vessel being in the centre of the bowl and others on the outside. Two 
other bowls, of Liverpool ware, were presented to the society in 1800 
by its first president Benjamin Hodges. There are, also, the andirons 
in the form of Hessian soldiers used in the fireplaces of the hall occupied 



98 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

by the society in 1804 and, suspended from the ceiling, are two glass 
chandeliers, probably of Venetian make of the same period, the gitt to the 
society of one of its presidents, Benjamin Carpenter. At the left is a 
mantle piece and two fire boards with views of Canton and Cape Town, 
taken from the old hall, the roll of members on parchment and other 
relics. In one of the table cases are the early manuscript catalogues of 
the museum, the visitors' books, old sea journals and autograph letters 
from United States Presidents Jefferson and Madison, commending the 
work of the society. Above these are hung a series of historical pictures, 
showing the exterior and interior views, where available, of the buildings 
occupied by the East India Marine Society and the Peabody Academy 
of Science from the date of the formation of the former society in 1 799 to 
the present time. In the central case is the remarkable carving in boxwood 
representing "Heaven and the Day of Judgment." This carving is but 
2^ inches in diameter ; the two subjects being represented in separate 
hemispheres. There are, however, in this little sphere, in all, one hun- 
dred and ten figures carved with such skill that they bear the closest 
scrutiny even with the aid of a powerful magnifying glass. The whole 
may be closed and placed in a leather cover. This curious object is 
supposed to have been the work of a monk during the fourteenth century 
and was presented to the society by the Hon. E. H. Derby, who received 
it from a gentleman of Westphalia visiting this country in the early part 
of the present century. Near the central case, in one of the table cases, 
are still preserved several objects from Sumatra previously referred to, 
and which were presented to the society upon its organization in 1799 
by Capt. Jonathan Carnes. These objects may be said to have formed 
the nucleus of the museum. 

On an easel on this floor is a bronze medallion of George Peabody, of 
London. He was born in South Danvers, now Peabody, Feb. 18, 1795, 



LIBRARIES, SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 99 

and his benefactions are too well knowi^ to require mention here. That 
gift which led to the establishment of the present Board of Trustees of 
the Peabody Academy of Science was made in 1867. It enabled the 
work inaugurated by the East India Marine Society and the Essex Insti- 
tute in natural history and ethnology to be continued and further devel- 
oped and insured the permanent establishment of a free museum for 
the rational amusement and instruction of the people of Essex County. 

CuviER Natural History Society. — Organized March 5, 1881. 
Meetings are held every Saturday evening at number 12 Laurel street. 
Louis F. Gavett, treasurer; Albert E. Cole, secretary. 

American Association for the Advancement of Science. — Its of- 
fice is in the building on Central street occupied by the Mercantile Na- 
tional Bank. The society has a valuable scientific library. In addition 
to the libraries here mentioned many of the different charitable and 
secret order societies have well selected libraries, the circulation of which 
is confined to the members of these organizations. 



CHAPTER VI. 
Charities. 

THE Charities of Salem though not housed in a way to attract the 
visitor by any display of architectural splendor are all of them in a 
sound financial condition and conducted in such a conservative 
manner as to obtain the best results. 

Associated Charities. — This organization has an office at the Frater- 
nity Rooms, No. 175 Essex street. It was formed for the purpose of 
'^giving relief to the worthy poor, prevent begging and imposture and 
diminishing pauperism." While it is entirely independent of the other 
charitable societies of Salem, it works in harmony and cooperation with 
all. A " Fresh Air Fund," conducted by this organization, enables elderly 
and tired women and sickly children to obtain rest and relief. The reg- 
istrar will be found at the office every week day from 9 to i and 3 to 5. 

Salem Marine Society : Franklin Building. — A large brick block on 
the corner of Essex street and Washington square, is owned by the Sa- 
lem Marine Society, the oldest charitable organization in the city. The 
society was formed in 1776 "to relieve such of their Members as through 
Misfortune at Sea, or otherwise, or by Reason of Old Age or Sickness 
stand in Need of Rehef, & the necessitous Famihes of deceased Mem- 
bers ; and also to communicate in Writing, to be lodged with the Society, 
the Observations they make at Sea of any Matters which may render Nav- 
(100) 



CHARITIES. lOI 

igation, particularly on this Coast, easier & safer." It came into possess- 
ion of this estate by the bequest of Capt. Thomas Perkins, a member of 
the society, about 1833. The building was twice damaged by fire, and 
totally destroyed in i860, but immediately rebuilt. The lower story is 
used for stores. The upper stories are occupied by the Father Mathew 
Temperance Society and the armory of the Salem Light Infantry. 'I'he 
Marine Society occupies the lower room on the corner of Washington 
square as a reading room for its members now numbering about fifty. 
This society conducts the Seamen's Bethel on Turner street. 

East India Marine Society (which see under Peabody Academy of 
Science). 

Salem Hospital. — This institution, 31 Charter street, near the foot of 
Liberty, was founded in 1873 through the liberality of Capt. John Ber- 
tram and other citizens. The hospital is a large brick building, formerly 
a private residence, which was refitted for its present uses, with wards for 
special purposes in separate buildings on the same estate which extends 
to Liberty street. Visitors are admitted on Wednesdays from 2 to 5 p. m. 
Application for admission of patients can be made to the superintendent 
daily from 11 to 12.30 o'clock. A successful training school for nurses 
is connected with the hospital. 

Old Ladies' Home. Association for the Relief of Aged and In- 
digent Women. — A house, 114 Derby street, corner of Orange street, 
built in the early part of the century by Benjamin W. Crowninshield, one 
of Salem's noted sons and secretary of the navy under President Madi- 
son, is now occupied by the Association for the Relief of Aged and Indi- 
gent Women. President Monroe was the guest of Mr. Crowninshield in 
this house July 9, 10, 11, 181 7 ; and on the 9th a great dinner was given 
in the southwestern room, at which were present, Commodores Bain- 
bridge and Perry, Generals Miller and Dearborn, Senator Silsbee, Lieut. 



I02 VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM. 

Governor William Gray, Judge Story and others. The western half was 
afterwards the residence, from 1825 to 1849, of Gen. James Miller, the 
hero of Lundy's Lane. The house was given for its present use in i860, 
by the late Robert Brookhouse, a successful merchant, and the home is 
supported from the income of funds raised by citizens and augmented by 
several legacies. It may be visited on Wednesday and Saturday after- 
noons. 

Old Men's Home. — This institution, incorporated as the Bertram 
Home for Aged Men, is located at 70 Derby street, and was founded in 
1877, by Capt. John Bertram. It is a cheerful and pleasant home. It 
may be visited on any week day. 

Woman's Friend Society. — This excellent institution was organized 
in a modest way in 1876, but was not incorporated until 1884. A read- 
ing room for girls was first established in the Maynes' block and later a 
home for girls at the corner of Essex and Daniels streets. An employ- 
ment bureau was also established about the same time. In 1879, Capt. 
John Bertram placed the house now occupied by the society, number 1 2 
Elm street, at the disposal of the managers for five years, to be given to 
the society at the end of that time if the work undertaken should succeed, 
and in 1884, the promise of Capt. Bertram was fulfilled, the success of 
the experiment having been proved, and the house became the property 
of the society. In 1889, through the generosity of friends, the duplicate of 
the house in the same block, numbered 14, was purchased and connected 
with it by cutting doorways through the partition wall and the accommo- 
dations of the society were thus doubled. The society now conducts the 
following work : — A home for girls who are given good rooms and board 
at reasonable terms ; an intelligence office, a needlework department ; a 
free cooking school for the children of the public schools ; a free kinder- 
garten. The institution depends for its support upon the contributions 
of charitably- inclined persons. 



CHARITIES. 1 03 

Plummer Farm School. — This reformatory institution for boys occu- 
pies a French-roofed wooden building on Winter Island, about one and 
one-half miles from the city. It may be reached by the "Willows" horse 
cars, which pass within five minutes' walk. It was endowed by Miss Car- 
oline Plummer, whose bequest also built Plummer Hall. The original 
bequest was $20,000 ; the present fund is $50,000. The school was in- 
corporated in 1855, but the building was not erected till 1870. The late 
Capt. John Bertram left a bequest of $35,000 to this institution. Visitors 
are admitted on Wednesdays from 3 to 6 p. m. 

Seamen's Orphan and Children's Friend Society. — This was orig- 
inally known as "The Children's Friend Society," and originated in an 
effort of Rev. Michael Carlton, a most benevolent man whose name is con- 
nected with the early efforts of charitable organizations in Salem, to assist 
orphan children. After taking children to his own home where they were 
cared for by Mrs. Carlton and himself, assistance was received from 
friends and rooms were occupied in the building on Charter street known 
as the "Dr. Grimshawe House." The society organized in 1839 and later 
occupied a house at 7 Carpenter street adjoining the present larger home 
which was erected in 1877. The first building was the gift of Robert 
Brookhouse ; it was fitted up by subscription and by means of donations 
and bequests. The society now owns, besides the present home, a build- 
ing on the opposite side of the street used as a hospital. Its working 
funds have also been increased and with this the usefulness of the home 
and the number of children supported. 

City Orphan Asylum. — The City Orphan Asylum of the Sisters of 
Charity (Roman Catholic) , occupies a large brick building 89 Lafayette 
street, to which a very large addition was made in 1893. The Asylum 
was organized in 1866. It furnishes a home for indigent men and women, 
and orphan boys and girls — the latter being educated in the common 



I04 VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM. 

branches. It is conducted by the Sisters of Charity. Visitors are admitted 
on Thursdays. 

"The Fraternity." — Visitors will be interested in calling at the Fra- 
ternity rooms, Downing Block, Essex street, which are open every even- 
ing. These rooms are maintained free to the young people who may be 
in the city without friends or home influences. The rooms are supplied 
with books and newspapers in abundance. Music and games add to the 
attractions of the rooms. Free instruction is given by competent teach- 
ers to those who desire to study. The rooms are frequented by a large 
number, and great good has resulted from their establishment. The 
Fraternity was organized in 1869. 

Young Men's Christian Association. — The building of the Young 
Men's Christian Association is at 14 Central street. It has reading rooms, 
library, hall for meetings and a gymnasium. Papers, periodicals and 
books are provided. The rooms are open to the public day and evening 
(Sundays excepted). Rehgious meetings are held as follows: Sunday 
6 p. M. ; Thursday evening, Bible class ; Tuesday evening, meeting for 
boys. 

The Salem Charitable Mechanic Association has rooms under 
Mechanic Hall, Crombie street, and was organized in 181 7. It contains 
a library of 6,000 volumes for the use of its members. Its rooms are 
open Saturday evenings. 

In addition to these, there are many charitable organizations, independ- 
ent and connected with other societies as churches. Masons, Odd Fel- 
lows, Grand Army, and others of a semi-social and charitable character 
which do most excellent work in their respective fields in Salem. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Business. 

THE Salem Board of Trade has very pleasant rooms in Hale's 
building, 225 Essex street. It was organized in April, 1889, with 
a large membership. The executive committee meets every Thurs- 
day night, and the Board meets on the third Thursday of the month at 
8 o'clock p. M. The rooms are open for the use of business men or 
business organizations. Permission to use the same can be obtained at 
any time by applying to the Secretary. The officers are E. A. Mackintire, 
President, E. D. Jones, Treasurer, and Edward F. Brown, Secretary. 

The Master Mechanic's Association has roomy and convenient 
quarters in its building on Central street formerly occupied by the First 
National Bank. The rooms are open every day. Benjamin E.Touret is 
President, and Charles E. Curtis, Secretary. 

Banks and Insurance Companies. — There are seven National and two 
Savings Banks in Salem : Asiatic National, 125 Washington street, capital, 
^315,000 ; Exchange National, 109 Washington street, capital, ^200,000 ; 
First National, 212 Essex street, capital, ^300,000 ; Mercantile National, 
II Central street, capital, $200,000; Merchants National, 234 Essex 
street, capital, $200,000; Naumkeag National, 227 Essex street, capital, 
$500,000; Salem National, 112 Washington street, capital, $300,000 ; 
Salem Savings Bank, 125 Washington street, deposits about $7,500,000; 

(105) 



Io6 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Five Cents Savings Bank, 212 Essex street, deposits about ^3,800,000. 
The National Banks are open from 8.30 a. m. to 1.30 p. m. with the ex- 
ception of the Asiatic which closes at 1.15 p. m. The Savings Banks 
are open from 9 a. m. to i p. m. and the Five Cents Savings Bank is in 
addition open for deposits on Saturday evenings from 7 to 9. All of tlie 
National Banks pay good dividends and the Savings Banks rank with the 
strongest in the state. 

The Salem Cooperative Bank, one of the most successful of these ex- 
cellent institutions in the state, has its headquarters at room 10, Kins- 
man's Block. John M. Raymond is President, E. A. Mackintire, Sec- 
retary. 

There are three fire insurance companies, the Holyoke Mutual Fire 
Insurance Company owning and occupying a fine brick and freestone block, 
114 Washington street; the Essex Mutual and the Salem Mutual. 

The Naumkeag Steam Cotton Company (Harbor, Peabody and Union 
Sts.) has a plant of 160,000 spindles and employs 1500 hands. The 
motive power is furnished by three Corliss engines with an aggregate of 
3000 horse power (horizontal 1200 and 600, walking beam 1200), to 
produce which 13,000 tons of coal are consumed each year. The pro- 
ductions of the mills for 1891 was 20,243,542 yards of cloth, varying in 
width from 28 to 100 inches. This if stretched out in one line would 
reach from Salem to San Francisco and across the Pacific ocean to Japan. 
The bell on the mill No. i was cast by H. N. Hooper in 1846. It is 
struck each hour of the night by the watchman, and the clanging stroke 
is to the mill population what the watch's "all's well" was to the drowsy 
citizen of a century ago. It also rings a morning call and for the open- 
ing and closing of the mills. It may be said that one-tenth of the whole 
population of the city responds directly or indirectly to the daily ringing 
of this bell. 



BUSINESS. 107 

Si'EAM Railroad Communication. — The Boston and Maine Railroad, 
Eastern Div (formerly the Eastern Railroad), affords the railroad com- 
munication to and from Salem. There are forty-one trains to and thir- 
ty nine from Boston between five o'clock in the morning and eleven at 
night on week days and seventeen each way on Sundays. The running 
time between Boston and Salem varies from thirty to thirty-five minutes 
for express trains, to forty and forty five minutes for accommodation 
trains. 

During the summer months there are eleven trains on week days to and 
ten from Gloucester and Cape Ann stations and on Sundays two each way. 
There are four to and from Lawrence and Lowell and intermediate sta- 
tions, besides numerous additional trains to and from local stations on the 
same line. Lawrence and Lowell trains afford communication to points 
north. There are frequent trains between Salem and Marblehead ; four 
each way between Salem and Portland, connecting for and from points 
beyond in Maine and the Provinces. The White Mountain region is 
reached by through trains via Portsmouth Great Falls and North Conway, 
there being four trains each way during the summer season. All Port- 
land and mountain trains, besides several local trains afford communica- 
tion with Newburyport and Portsmouth, and accommodation trains with 
intermediate points. On the Lowell System of the B. & M. Railroad, 
trains leave Salem for Lowell three times daily. The Boston and Maine 
road affords ample freight facilities to and from Boston, and to all points 
east and west over its own hne to Portland or Boston, thence over con- 
necting roads to the Pacific coast on the one side, and the state of Maine 
and the Provinces on the other. .'Ihe Lowell road does a large freight 
business, mostly in coal, and the Boston and Maine carries large coal 
trains to the Lawrence mills. 

Horse CAR Lines. — The Naumkeag division of the Lynn and Boston 
9 



I08 VISnOR's GUIDE TO SALEM. 

Street Railway maintains frequent electric and horse car accommoda- 
tions between Salem, Peabody and Danvers, Salem and I>everly, Salem 
and Marblehead, Salem, Wenham and Asbiiry Grove, Salem and Beverly 
Cove, Salem, Swampscott and Lynn, to Northand South Salem, and dur- 
ing the summer season to the "Willows." Peabody and Beverly are 
each about two miles from the horse-car station, which is in the Price 
building, corner of Essex and Washington streets. Danvers is distant 
about five miles and Wenham ab' ut six. Asbury Grove, the location of 
the Methodist camp ground, is reached by the Wenham cars. Marble- 
head is about four m.iles, the "Willows" a little over two miles, and the 
terminals in North and South Salem are each one mile from the station. 
The Danvers cars go by two different routes, via Peabody and through 
No. Salem, to the various sections of Danvers — 'the Port," ' the Plains," 
"Tapleyville," "Putnamville," -'the Centre" (old Salem Village) and 
"Asylum Station." Many spots of historical interest are reached by 
these lines. A new power station with its conspicuous and lofty chim- 
ney stack is located on Mason street. 

Elecirical. — The New England Telephone and Telegraph Company 
has a large "exchange" in Salem, with about 400 subscribers in the city. 
The Central office is in the Northey Block, 106 Washington street cor- 
ner of Essex. The Salem Electric Lighting Company has a valuable 
plant 21 to 27 Peabody street, built in 1889, furnisiung 300 arc lights of 
2000 candle power each and 4000 incandescent lights. The system used 
is the Thomson- Houston. Visitors are admitted on application at the 
Company's office, 1 14 Washington street. The office of tiie Western Union 
Telegraph Company is centrally locate^ in die Northey Building on Wash- 
ington street. The ciiy has an electric and telephone fire alarm system, 
and special police lines. David Mason more than a century ago delivered 
lectures on electrichy at his residence in Salem, which were the first 



BUSINESS. 109 

lectures on this subject given in this region. The first incandescent 
hght ever used in a dwelling is said to have been in a house at number 
1 1 Pearl street in July, 1859, this light being the invention of Prof. Moses 
G. Farmer. The telephone also originated in Salem : Prof. Charles G. 
Page, who made experiments in magnetic currents in connection with 
musical sounds in 1837, the forerunner of the telephone, had his laboratory 
at 259 Essex St., and Prof. A. Graham Bell lived at 292 Essex street while 
perfecting his telephone which was first publicly exhibited in Lyceum 
Hall before a meeting of the Essex Institute, Feb. 12, 1877. 

Express Lines. — Moulton's, Merrilt & Go's, Savory & Go's, Lake- 
man's and the American m,ake from two to four trips daily, to and from 
Boston. 

Hotels. — The Essex House (formerly William Gray's Mansion) num- 
ber 170 P^ssex street, between Central and St. Peter streets, is the prin- 
cipal hotel in the city and accommodates about 120 guests. Transient 
rates are from $2 to $2.50 per day. An excellent dinner can be obtained 
here for seventy-five cents. 

The Central House, 167 to 181 Washington street, has accommoda- 
tion for about 60 guests ; transient rates are $i per day. 

The Ocean View (summer) is at Juniper Point, and accommodates 
150 guests. 

The Central and Atlantic Houses (summer) at Juniper Point, accom- 
modate about 50 guests each. 

Boarding Houses. — The Higbee House at 150 Washington street, 
the '' Doyle Mansion," 33 Summer, and the Abbott House, 22 Federal 
street, are well known and select boarding houses. 

Restaurants. — Porter's Dining Rooms, 7 Central street; H. F. Cur- 
tis' rooms, 200 Essex street; James' Cafe, 256 Essex street; Simon's 
ice cream saloon, 140 Essex street ; and Newcomb's oyster house, Derby 



no VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM. 

Square, are in their special lines the most popular for tourists and 
visitors. 

Newspapers. — There are five newspapers published in Salem — three 
weeklies, and two dailies. 

The Salem Gazette^ published at an office in Hale's Buildmg, 223 Es- 
sex street, daily, was started in 1 768 as the Essex Gazette. 

The Sale?n Register, published at an office corner of Essex and Cen- 
tral streets, each Monday, was established in 1800. 

The Salem Observer, published each Saturday morning, at the Observ- 
er Building, City Hall Avenue, was started in 1823. 

The Essex County Mercury, a weekly edition of the Gazette, is pub- 
hshed on Wednesdays. It was started in 1831. 

The Salem Evening News, estabhshed in 1880, is published daily at 
122 Washington street. 

The largest business interests of Salem have for many years been the 
various branches of the leather industry, with the factories located in the 
vicinity of Boston street and in Peabody and more recently in South Salem. 
The cotton factory of the Naumkeag Steam Cotton Company is at the 
water's edge at the foot of Harbor street. The coal companies with their 
wharves, where large schooners, steamers and barges are constantly dis- 
charging their cargoes, are located at the easterly end of the town on 
Derby street ; the Pennsylvania Pier and Phillips Wharf being the ])rin- 
cipal headquarters for this largely increasing business. On White street 
the visitor can see the yacht- building establishment of " Frisbie," which 
has taken the place of the ship yards which years ago made "down town" 
famous. 

Visitors to Salem will find Essex and neighboring streets the shopping 
centre. Here are stores equalling in the number and character of their 
departments leading metropolitan establishments of like description ; 



BUSINESS. Ill 

while there are also very many smaller stores covering all the branches 
of retail trade, in which, though the stocks are less in size and more spe- 
cialized, the shopper will find the old-time methods still in vogue : of 
giving courteous treatment and furnishing the best of goods upon the 
lowest terms. Tourists as well as the regular summer visitors can there- 
fore have their wants in the shopping line easily supplied by the shops in 
Salem. To mention these dealers in detail is not within the province of 
this Guide. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Public Grounds. 

CEMETERIES.— The graves of the earliest settlers in Salem, like 
those in Plymouth, are unmarked. It would be interesting to point 
out the spot where the frail Arbella Johnson was buried, but tradi- 
tion only tells us indefinitely of her last resting place. But there are 
many interesting stones in the older cemeteries which the visitors will 
Avish to see. 

Charier-street Ce?nete?y, the oldest in the city, is on Charter street, 
between Central and Liberty streets. 

The oldest stones will be found just east of the large willow tree in the 
centre of the ground and west of it towards the western fence and in the 
rear of the " Dr. Grimshawe House.*' The oldest stone is that of "Dor- 
aty, wife of Philip Cromwell," 1673. 

A very curious stone erected to the memory of Timothy Lindall, a 
merchant of Salem, should be noticed, as well as that of Nathaniel Math- 
er, the precocious younger brother of the celebrated Cotton Mather of 
Boston. Mary Corey, the first wife of Giles Corey, is buried here, and 
also, Judge Hathorne of witchcraft fame. (See also chapter on Haw- 
thorne in Salem.) 

A bronze tablet, recently placed upon the iron fence facing the street, 
states that : — 
(112) 




"Old Bupying Point," Charter sireec. 

Ancient Headstone, Charter street. 



public grounds. 113 

"This ground, 

the fikst set apart in 

Salf:m 

for the burial of the dead, 

and, since 1637, known as 

The Burying Point, 

contains the graves of 

Governor Bradstreet, 

Chief Justice Lynde, 

and others whose virtues, 

honors, courage, and sagacity, 

have nobly illustrated 

THE HISTORY OF SaLEM." 

The Broad-street Cemetery is reached from gates on Summer street, 
and at the corner of Broad and Winthrop streets. Here are buried Capt. 
George Corwin (the sheriff who served the warrants for tliose charged 
with witchcraft), Col. Timothy Pickering, General Lander, and Caroline 
Plummer, whose name is attached to literary and charitable institutions 
m Salem. This cemetery was first used in 1655. The oldest stones are 
upon the higher ground at the southern part of the cemetery ; among 
them are those of John Norman, 1713; the Welds, 1 701-12; Mary 
Lambert, 1693 ; and the three Sewall children, 1684-88, the record on 
the last named stone closing with a quaint but pathetic verse. 



114 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

The Howard-street Cemetery was first used in 1801. It is on Howard 
street at the corner of Bridge. 

Gree7ilawn Cemetery, first used in 1807, and for many years known as 
Orne street Cemetery is on Orne street, near North. It has been greatly 
improved of late by the city and the lot owners. There is a soldiers' 
monument in the cemetery, erected by the Sons of Veterans, and a very 
beautiful memorial chapel and conservatory, the gift of Mr. Walter S. 
Dickson to the city, is now being erected. 

The Friends'' Cemetery is on Essex street, at the corner of Pine. 

The Roman Catholic Cemetery is on North street, a mile from tlie 
city. It has been enlarged much in recent years and is being made at- 
tractive by the owners of lots. 

Harmony Grove Cemetery lies on the Peabody line, and comjirises 
al)Out sixty-five acres. The principal entrance is at Grove street. This 
was one of the first of the rural cemeteries to l)e established in tliis 
neighborhood, following closely the model set at Mount Auburn. A very 
graceful arch of rough stones spans the carriage-way at the entrance, and 
a rockery is situated just inside the grounds at tliis point. It is fortu- 
nate in having within its precincts some fine wooded growth which gives 
it a quiet and sechided air, though this seclusion is somewhat marred by 
the close proximity to the railroad and its numerous passing trains. 
Many expensive monuments have been placed in private lots. Some of 
the finest are to be seen on Greenwood, Forest. Cypress, Linden, and 
Maple avenues, and on Locust and Hemlock paths. In a lot on Locust 
path the remains of George Peal)ody, the great philanthropist, are i)v- 
terred. A large sarcophagus of granite marks the spot. A soldiers' lot 
on Greenwood avenue, has a fine granite monument and a tablet, erect- 
ed by means of the M. Fenollosa fund. This cemetery was established 
in 1840. 



v't^*""^^.- '■ 1; *''J^^^^^|B 




h 


I*' 

1 


"•- ' ■ ^B 


" .■ ^ ...■■•5%'- ' 






\ 




i 

H 




The Willows. 



View from V/illows. 



PUBLIC GROUNDS. US 

6"/. Peter's Churchyard is the only typical churchyard burying ground 
in Salem. The space originally devoted to the graves has been encroached 
upon by the widening of Brown street and the building of the chapel, 
so that there is left, exposed, but few of the many stones which were 
once in sight. Burials were made here soon after the building of the 
first church edifice in 1733, but the oldest stones now to be seen are 
those of James Jeffry, 1755, and Mrs. Hannah Mottey, 1768. (See 
also chapter on churches : St. Peter's.) 

The Common, whicli was nearly a century ago named Washington 
square, is a territory of about eight acres, bounded by what were until 
1882 known as Newbury, Brown, Pleasant and Forrester streets, but now 
called by the general name of the square. This reservation was made in 
1 714, when it was voted that the spot " where trainings are held in front 
of Nathaniel Higginson's house, shall be forever kept as a training field 
for the use of Salem." It is now a level lawn, though when laid out it was 
very uneven, and there were several small ponds included witiiin its bor- 
ders. In i8o[, Elias Haskett Derby, then Colonel of the militia, raised 
about $2500 for putting the reservation in better condition for a "training 
field." The name ''Washington Square " was given to the Common by the 
selectmen in 1802. The large elms on the Common were planted about 
181 8 to replace Lombardy poplars, the trees first put out in 1802 and 
which soon failed. 

Salem Neck and the Willows. — The " Neck " is a general name 
for all lands below the terminus of Derby street. It was originally held 
as common land and as far back as 17 14 was used for pasturage and the 
curing offish. In 1679, there were so many persons located at Winter 
Island, the portion of the Neck to the southeast and separated from the 
larger peninsula, tliat a "victualling house" was licensed there for their 
convenience. There have been forts and block houses on tlie Neck from 



Il6 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

the earliest times and in 1799 the noted frigate, '-Essex," was built at a 
spot not far from die lighthouse on Winter Island. 'I'here was a fort on 
Winter Island as early as 1643, '^''^ on the site of Fort Lee, the heights 
of the Neck, in 1742. During the war of 1812 there were three forts at 
the Neck— William, Lee and Juniper. The United States government 
has two reservations on the Neck for fortifications— Forts Lee and Pick- 
ering, both earthworks and now tumbling to ruin, though put in excellent 
order during the war of 186 1-5. The former mounted four large guns, 
which fiom tlieir elevated position commanded the approaches to the 
outer harbor. Fort Pickering was supplied with some twenty guns in- 
tended to prevent the passage of unfriendly vessels into the inner harbor. 
The ruins add much to the picturesque appearance of the Neck, and a 
stroll through Fort Pickering will be found interesting. Climbing the 
parapet the visitor finds himself at the end of a little bridge leading to 
the government lighthouse, and into this he may go if he will apply to 
the keeper. 

"Juniper Point " joins the public grounds at the Willows. It has been 
divided into house lots for .summer cottages. Many Salem people, be- 
sides others from Lowell, Nashua, N. H., and elsewhere, pass the sum- 
mer months liere. The cottages are neat and pleasantly situated. There 
are three hotels : the Ocean View, the Atlantic and tli e Central. 

"The Wiliows," a porticm of the northeastern part of Salem Neck, is 
the popular public ground of the city. It is about twenty minutes ride 
in the street-cars from the city, and frequent communication is afforded 
in the summer season by the Street Railway, which company has 
done much in addition to the city's efforts to make this an attractive 
pleasure ground. 'I'he location is a beautiful one. The peninsula juts 
out in a nigged ])oint ; one of the few of such sites on our coast, freely 
accessible to the public, and near any of the larger centres of popula- 




Baker's Island. "Tiie Cliffs. 



Jakep's Island. "Point of Rocks." 



PUBLIC GROUNDS. I I 7 

tion. To the north lies the Beverly shore, with its summer cottages 
peeping out among the trees ; Cape Ann runs off at the northeast; di- 
rectly seaward lie Baker's, Lowell, and the smaller islands of the harbor, 
and on the south is the rocky headland of Marblehead with its dilapidat- 
ed old fort at the water's edge. A fine " Pavilion " was erected in 1879 
at an expense of several thousand dollars, facing the open ocean, and 
from its spacious verandas an unobstructed view may be had of the en- 
tire outer harbor, the " North Shore," and the islands and shipping in the 
bay. On fine davs the harbor is enlivened by sailing craft and steamers. 
Steamboat excursions are made at low rates of flire among the islands 
and along the North Shore, and the " S. E. Spring " of the Boston and 
Portsmouth steamboat company makes frequent trips to Baker's Islaiid, 
while the steamers Baltimore and Philadelphia ply between Beverly, the 
Willows, and Marblehead and Boston. The city provides several shelters, 
where small parties may lunch, or sit and enjoy the scenery and the sur- 
roundings. Several restaurants are licensed by the city, and at any one 
of them a good lunch, dinner or supper may be had at a moderate price ; 
and there are, besi('es, the usual amusements to be found for children in 
public places. The old trees which gave the name to this marine park 
are European white willows. They were planted by the Board of Health 
of Salem in 1801. There are nineteen of the forty trees originally plant- 
ed at that time remaining to-day. They vary in circumference at five feet 
from the ground, from seven feet and nine inches to ten feet and ten 
inches, the average, f r all of the trees, being nine feet and six inches. 

Sai.em Harbor. — The harbor of Salem is one of the most picturesque 
on the coast, and there are many points of interest within a day's sail. 
It is a delightful sail up the river to Danversport, or in an opposite direc- 
tion around the arm of the harbor that makes up to Forest river. A half 
day may be pleasantly spent in skirting the shore on either the northern 



Il8 VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM. 

or southern side of the bay — the northern shore running off to Glouces- 
ter, and the southern around the rocky headlands of Marblehead. A few 
hours will give ample time to sail among the islands of which Baker's, 
Lowell and Misery are the largest. On the former, which has now be- 
come a popular summer resort, there are two lighthouses, and a public 
house called the Winne egan, and on Lowell Island is the Island House 
now a Sanitarium for invalid children. A short distance offshore there 
are several good fishing grounds, where perch, locally called '• cunners," 
may be caught in abundance. Farther out, on the sunken ledges, small 
cod may be taken, and a few miles in the bay mackerel schooners are 
frequently seen in the season for catching that fish. Sail boats can read- 
ily be engaged with a competent skipper for excursion parties, and boats 
for rowing can always be secured at a small rate per hour The hours 
of the sailing of the steamers may be found by inquiring at the office of 
the Street Railway or at the Willows. 

There are also public grounds at "Liberty Hill " in North Salem, where 
a cold spring has for years been the favorite resort for the people in that 
section of the city. There is at the head of Broad street, on land owned 
by the Great Pasture Corporation, a rocky ledge rising abruptly from the 
surrounding land on the summit of which, from time immemorial, the 
bonfires have been lighted on the eve of " the Fourth of July" and on 
the occasion of other celebrations. The hill is covered with '*wood-wax" 
which is usually in full flower about July 4, when the effect of the flaring 
fire on the golden flowers and masses of people collected in groups about 
the hills is picturesque in the extreme. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Natural Objects of Interest. 

THE neighborhood of Salem has for a long time been the stamp, 
ing ground of the botanist and zoologist as well as for those inter- 
ested in minerals and rocks» In fact, from the time of its earliest 
European settlements, the natural objects of the region have attracted 
the attention of writers and the curious in natural history. Higginson 
and Winthrop have recorded their interest in the animals and plants about 
Salem, and Jossel\ n, who published particular accounts of the fauna and 
flora of New England more than two hundred years ago, undoubtedly 
travelled in the immediate neighborhood and, besides, gained informa- 
tion from accounts given him by the early settlers here. Manasseh Cut- 
ler, however, was the first systematic botanist who undertook to describe 
our flora, and the road from Ipswich Hamlets (Hamilton) to Salem must 
have been known to him step by step. From his day a continuous line 
of excellent botanists have carried out the work he began in this section 
of New England. The animals have been studied ever since the Essex 
County Natural History Society commenced its labors in 1834 and the 
rocks have puzzled more than one eminent geologist for three-quarters of 
a century. The accounts of the work done by a large number of students 
in this region are to be four.d in the publications of the Essex Institute 
while the material results in the form of specimens collected are in the 
10 (119) 



I20 VISITORS GUIDE TO SAI.EM. 

museum of the Peabody Academy of Science. (See sketch of these in- 
stitutions in this Guide.) The facilities for studying natural history thus 
afforded have awakened a general interest in these matters, so that the 
green plant box of the botanist, the insect net, the zoologist's dredge and 
the leather bag and hammer of the geologist are familiar sights to the 
people of Salem and its neighborhood. 

The rocks of this region belong to a complicated series, chiefly diorite, 
syenite, granite and felsite. On Salem Neck is an interesting formation 
called, technically, elaeolite-syenite, a form of which, first described from 
this region, is now known as Essexite. These rocks can only be studied 
in this country in New Jersey, Arkansas and one or two other places and 
in Souih America, Norway and Portugal, so that the Neck offers an easily 
accessible field for studying them. Here, also, the rare mineral sodalite 
is found in little blue patches of much beauty. Discovered years ago and 
then lost sight of, it has been searched for by collectors for a generation 
until lately rediscovered near the old location and on some of the islands 
in Salem harbor. On the shore to Marblehead Neck occurs the kerato- 
phyre, the rock mass of the region being felsite. AtNahant and at Row- 
ley are the remains of what were once larger deposits of an early Cambrian 
limestone which contains fossils of low forms of animals. All through 
the region of Salem are masses of the bed rock, cut and recut by dykes 
of other sorts of rock which has forced itself up through the cracks of 
the original formations in every direction. Many of these are most in- 
teresting and instructive to study and good examples may be seen on the 
Neck and near the Essex bridge leading to Beverly where the trap 
dyke made famous by Hitchcock more than half a century ago is still 
preserved. 

The surface geology is, perhaps, even more interesting to the pedes- 
trian, and charming walks to curious boulders, often on high eminences of- 



NATURAL OBJECTS OF INTEREST. 12 I 

fer tempting occupation for a spare half day. The "Ship Rock" in Peabody 
(leave cars at Newell's Crossing, So. Reading branch, B. & M. R. R.), 
fortunately the property of the Essex Institute, and thus saved from more 
practical service in the form of edgestones and block pavements in Salem 
streets, is a huge mass of granite estimated to weigh iioo tons, standing 
quite high on a ledge of the same rock and is the largest boulder of this 
character in this region. Agassiz rock, another large boulder on a hill near 
the town of Manchester and one in the swamp near it, probably, as re- 
gards size, come next in order. In the woods, some two miles south 
of Ship Rock, toward Lynn, are many boulders, several being at the very 
top of Prospect Hill. Beyond these, across the intervening valley, on 
the southern crest of the next ridge, is "Phaeton Rock," a granite boul- 
der weighing, perhaps, ten tons, balanced upon three smaller boulders 
just at the edge of the cliff, while not far from this, and quite near Cedar 
Pond, is a cave made from the disintegrating and fallen ledge rock, into 
which the fearless inquirer may squeeze his way, through a narrow opening, 
to find quite a sizable, although dark chamber within. All of this boulder 
region in Peabody and Lynn may be visited from Salem by good pedes- 
trians in an afternoon, steam cars and street railways assisting to quickly 
pass the less interesting parts of the route in town. 

The ''dungeons" or ''kettle holes" form another interesting feature of 
the surface geology of this region. These are very deep pits, often with 
little ponds at the bottom, scattered among the gravelly hills of Essex 
County. In some cases they are nearly one hundred feet in depth, with 
very steep sides, the diameter at the top being but a few rods. The best ex- 
amples may easily be reached by leaving the street cars of the Mar- 
blehead division at the crest of the hill beyond Forest river and 
striking across the fields back and southwesterly of the car house and 
cemetery. There are several dungeons at this point and the walk can 



122 visitor's guide TO SALEM. 

be continued to Legge'shill and back by Loring avenue to Lafayette street. 
From Legge's hill a fine view of the shore from Lynn to Marblehead may 
be obtained. Connected with the dungeons in geologic interest are the 
"kames" or "Indian Ridges," as they are commonly called, which Iro- 
fessor Wright in his "Ice Age in North America," speaks of as being the 
last work of the glaciers of that period. The kames really seem like 
huge artificial embankments with steep sides and very narrow at the top. 
They run across the county in lines from the northwest to the soutlieast. 
One at the western side of Wenham pond may be followed for some miles 
with occasional breaks and another, which finally blends into it, near 
Beaver pond, Beverly, may be followed a similar distance. And, if one 
should desire, the whole formation could be traced mit across Topsfield, 
Boxford and Bradford, to the Merrimac river and beyond that into New 
Hampshire. Those near Salem are accessible by the cars of the street rail- 
way from North Beverly, where, after a pleasant walk of some three miles 
overlooking Wenham pond and, after crossing one or two roads and pass- 
ing over the ridges near Cedar pond, Wenham meeting-house is reached 
by the Danvers road and the cars taken for the return trip. Besides the 
kames, the region about Salem is dotted with cons])icuous hills, some of 
them two hundred feet high, the longer axes of which follow the same 
direction as that of the kames. These, however, belong to a gtologic 
period somewhat earlier and are known, technically, as "drumlins." Many 
of these hills are sought as the objective points of walks, and such as 
Brown'shillin Danvers, Legge's hill inSalem,and Turner's hill in Ipswich, 
amply repay the hard tramp up their steep sides by the magnificent ex- 
panse of field, shore and villages which may be seen from their summits. 
The piers of Essex bridge, between Salem and Beverly, have long been 
a noted place for collecting the invertebrates living in the salt water. 
Here at low tide, when there is a high run of tides, — not low tides as 
described in the almanac, for that means the tide neither rises high 
nor runs far out, — there is a good opportunity for collecting and study- 



NATURAL OBJECTS OF INTEREST. I 23 

ing the curious sea-anemones, star- fishes, sea-urchins, hydroids and many 
little mollusks ; and our beaches after a storm will furnish interesting 
marine forms both of animal and plant life for those who are not familiar 
with the products of the sea. The birds, whether those of the marshes 
and beaches or the inland species, may be best observed by the aid of 
an opera glass ; — much better, in fact, than over the sights of a shot gun, — 
and many resident species of birds and even the ways of the shyer quad- 
rupeds can be studied in the woods of Beverly, Manchester, Lynnfield and 
Boxford by those who know their habits. 

There are many nooks and corners about Salem where rare and beauti- 
ful plants can be collected, from the little Draba in the earliest April to the 
fringed gentian of October. Hepaticas abound in the woods at Swamp- 
scott and near Wenham pond, and there are hosts of beautiful flowers 
and graceful ferns in the region near by, w^here, even yet, it is possible to 
tramp without trespassing on land exclusively reserved for summer resi- 
dences, although this privilege can not be expected to last much longer. 
There are, too, in Salem, many fine trees well worthy of a visit by those 
interested in this branch of botany. In the garden of the estate of the 
late Mr. Geo. Peabody, on Washington Sq., and best seen from Mall 
St., is the largest tulip tree in this region and there are several fine mag- 
nolias in yards about the city. The finest lindens are on the estate of 
Mr. Francis Peabody at Danvers, although many of our streets are made 
fragrant by the blossoms of these trees in June. Salem is famous for its 
noble horsechestnuts, and there are fine maples on Dearborn street, Fair- 
field street and by the house of the Misses Ropes, on Essex street above 
the North church. The largest catalpa is on Brown street and the Ber- 
tram elm, in the grounds of the Public Library, a tree nearly fourteen 
feet in its least girt, although but seventy-five years of age, is the largest 
and finest elm in the city. The elms at the upper end of Lafayette 



124 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Street are but little less than one hundred years old. European walnuts which 
ripen their fruit are found in several places in Salem, and noble oaks and 
hickories grow naturally at '^Kernwood." A famous Balm-of-gilead, more 
than fourteen feet in its smallest circumference, in the yard of the old 
Silsbee house on Daniels street, still lifts high its headless trunk, a relic 
of the last century. On Broad street, nearly opposite Pickering, is a bald 
cypress from the soutliern United States, a tree often mistaken for the 
cedar of Lebanon, and there is another still larger on the Derby estate 
in South Salem. These are probably the most northerly growing trees 
of this species. The traditional Endicott pear tree may be seen from 
the trains, on the Lawrence branch of the B. & M. R. R., beyond Pea- 
body, and just before reaching Danversport station, at the left in an 
open field but protected by a rail fence. There is, however, on Hardy 
street, in Salem, a pear tree nearly as old as the more celebrated Endicott 
pear and in a more flourishing condition, known as the Allen pear 
tree. 

Nearly every traveller on the railroad between Lynn and Salem, during 
the latter part of June or early in July, is impressed with the gorgeous- 
ness of the rocky pastures on either side of the track, golden with the 
masses of wood-wax {Gefiista tinctoria) then in full flower and standing 
out in striking contrast against the dark bushy red cedars which abound 
on all the hills. This plant from the old world, recorded as having been 
introduced by the emigrants with Endicott, in 1628, for the purpose of 
making a dye, is not seen in similar large masses at any great distance 
from Salem. Its spread has been extensive and persistent on these bare 
hills of which it has taken complete possession. But an outline merely 
can be given of these natural objects of interest. The large and well 
labelled local collections of rocks, plants and animals at the museum of 
the Peabody Academy of Science always open to public inspection, and 




Nichols House: Colonial Arehiteeture 



Paved Yard of Nielnols House. 



NATURAL OBJECTS OF INTEREST. 1 25 

tlie niinierous articles in the publications of the Essex Institute, descrip- 
ti\ e of the groups included in our fauna and flora and giving the location 
of the various species, which may be consulted either at the Institute 
or at the Public Library, will furnish sufficient information to keep an 
active student or collector busy for an entire summer without beginning 
to exhaust the means of rational amusement or the many charming drives 
or refreshing walks suggested at the same time. 



CHAPTER X. 

Drives and Walks. 

T|T ARBLEHEAD. — I'he drive to the quaint old town of Marblehead 
\ \ is very enjoyable to any one who appreciates the picturesque. 
Many of the streets are crooked beyond imagination ; the older 
houses are as striking in appearance as the streets. It is an old provin- 
cial town, entirely unlike any other place in this vicinity. A pleasant 
hour may be spent in driving througk its streets, and the people, who 
are very proud of their town, are always ready to show the stranger its 
odd features and points of historic interest. In the summer time its har- 
bor is the rendezvous of the yachts of the leading clubs, cruising along the 
coast, and the regattas of the Eastern and Corinthian Clubs are events 
of the season here. Fort Sewall, now used practically for park purposes, 
commands a most beautiful prospect and is one of the principal attrac- 
tions of the town. Crocker park, near the ferry- landing, at Tucker's 
wharf, is a sightly cliff overlooking the harbor. 

EouTE FROM Salem to Marblehead and return — 10^ miles. 
Explanation of Signs.— r. Right hand. I. Left hand. Figures in brackets 
are the distances on the road in miles between the points named. 

STARTING FROM CENTRAL, CORNER OF ESSEX ST. 

Lafayette St. [1| miles]. 

I. Salem Hoad (Marblehead) [1]. 

Forest river. The " dungeons," rear of cemetery on hill. 

(126) 



DRIVES AND WALKS. I27 

rieasant St. [|]. 

Deverenx R. R. Station. W<a*l<-lionse rocks, scene of Floyd Ire- 
son's ride. Catholic Church, " .^tar of the Sea." 
r. l^rospect St. [^]. 

r. Washington St. [|] (l\eep to left of pump). 
r. Common [3':.]. 

Abi.ot Hall. 
Lee St. [jJj] 

Custom House. 
Hooper St [.f;?]. 
I. Washington St. [/.]. 

Lee mansion. No 169. 
r. KockaAvay St. [,-0]. 
r. Summer St. [}']. 

St. Michael's church. 
I. Washington St. [i]. 

Judge Story's birth-place, No. 104. 'J'own Hall. Gerry's birth- 
place 

Fort Sewall. 
r. Franklin St. [i^]. 



KETUnN 



r. Orne St [4]. 

Old burying hill. Site of Fountain Inn. 
Beacon St. [i;J. 

Peach's Point. 
Green St. to Soldiers' monument [|]. 

Ccdden's hill. Powder house, 
r. Elm St. [J]. 
I. Waters St. [/^]. 
r. Pleasant St. [1|]. 

Mugford's monument. 
r. Salem Hoad [1]. 

Forest river. 
Lafayette St. [1|]. 



128 visitor's GUfDE TO SALEM. 

Marblehead Neck. This is a favorite drive of about five miles and may 
be taken in connection with that to Marblehead. Leaving the city by 
Lafayette street, a beautiful avenue lined with elm trees, the largest of 
which at the upper end of the street were planted by E. H. Derby in 
1808, the road turns to the southeast and leads toward Marblehead. 
Just before entering the town, however, Ocean street is taken, until the 
neck road is reached which passes across a causeway opposite the town, 
then along the shore of Marblehead Neck, and back to the starting point. 
If one wishes to see a magnificent display of surf dashing upon the rocks, 
a favorable time to visit this locality is at the flood tide during or imme- 
diately after an e-^.sterly storm. There are many fine summer residences 
on the Neck and several summer hotels and boarding houses, among 
them the picturesque " Nanepashemet," the" Atlantic," the " Boylston," 
the '• Ocean- Side," " Samoset," and the " Irving." The club houses of 
the Eastern Yacht Club and Corinthian Yacht Club are also located here 
and can be visited upon invitation of members. 

Clifton Heights. A very pleasant drive of about three miles may be 
taken to the " Preston," the " Crowninshield " and Clifton Heiglits, and 
"The Elms " on the Marblehead shore below Swampscott. Near Clifton 
Heights is " Gun Rock," a deep chasm in the rocks, into which the sea 
dashes at certain stages of the tide, with an explosive sound which, dur- 
ing heavy easterly storms, may be heard for a distance of three or four 
miles. From the rocks at this point there is good perch fishing. 

Route to Clifton and Marblehkad Nkck and return— 11 miles, 
starting from central, cohner of essex streer. 
Lafayette St. [1]. 
r. Loring Ave [|] . 

I. Forest river road, beyond causeway (Marblehead) [i]. 
I. Old Lynn road [f^]. 



DRIVES AND WALKS. 1 29 

r. Swampscott road (acute angle) [,'„]. 
I. Clifton Ave. [i]. 

Ware's pond. Clifton Heights. Gun rock. 
I. Atlantic Ave. [1]. 

Devereux beach. 
r. Beach St. [|]. 

Devereux mansion. 
Drives on the Neck [2]. 

KETUKN. 

r. Ocean St. [|]. 

Kuins of Fort Glover. 
I. Pleasant St. [i]. 

Devereux railroad depot. 
r. Salem road [1]. 

Forest river. 
Lafiiyette St. [1|]. (Salem). 

Swanipscott Beaches. From Salem to tlie several beaches at Swamp- 
scott, about four miles, is a favorite drive. The road is a pleasant one, 
and passes all the beaclies and summer hotels and boarding-houses. 
During '' the season," the roads through the town are gay with passing 
equipages, during the early hours of the evening, and the hotel and 
boarding house piazzas are crowded with their guests enjoying the cool- 
ing ocean breezes. If desired, the drive may be extended a mile farther 
through Ocean street, Lynn — a beautiful avenue, lined with elegant pri- 
vate residences surrounded by gardens and lawns. 

Nahant Beach. The drive to Nahant beach is about six miles, the 
town of Nahant being three miles beyond. Passing through Svvampscott 
and Lynn, to the drives last mentioned may be added that on Long 
Beach, a narrow strip of land connecting the peninsula of Nahant with 
the main land. At Nahant there are many commodious summer cottages 
with their finely kept lawns adding to the attractions of the drive. 



T30 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 



Beverly Shore. A drive of about six miles along the Beverly shore is 
one of the most pleasant in the neighborhood. Leaving Salem through 
Bridge street, and crossing Essex Bridge, the road leads through a part 
of Beverly, known as " the Cove," then along the shore, over smooth and 
well-kept roads, through the section designated "the Farms." Many 
elegant residences surrounded by well-ordered grounds, or secluded in 
natural forests, are on both sides of the way. A delightful return drive 
is through the Montserrat woods by Common street, and via Essex street 
and the centre of Beverly to Salem. 

llouTE TO Beverly Farms and return — 11| miles. 

STARTING FROM BKVERI.Y BRIDGE. 

r. Cabot St. [i,]. 
r. Water St. [^]. 
Tuck's Point. 

The view liere is very broiid : at the right is Salem, then Fort Lee, tlie Willows, and in 
the liarbor Baker's and Misery inlands. 

RETURN TO : 

r. Lothrop St. [J], 

View of Hospital Point light-house, Salem Willows and outer 
harbor. 
I. Abbot St. \_W 
r. Monument Sq. [^i;]- 

Soldin's' monument. Ancient cemetery. 
r. Hale St. [i]. 

On the beach along the siiore here was found one of the largest shellheaps of tlie early 
Indian races that has been discovered in this region. 

r. Ober St. [i]. 
I. Neptune St. [J]. 

First street to the right leads down to the light-honse on Hospital Point, wliich is open to 
visitors. 



DRIVES AND WALKS. T3I 

I. TlioriicUke Ave. [^j. 
r. Hale St. [2iJ. 

The next street to the right is Brackenbuvy street leading down to Patch's beach, the 
next is Prince street, where there are several residences. 

. Mingo beach. Paine Ave. 
r. West St. [i]. 

Misery and Baker's Island. 
I. Hale St. [J]. 

Ancient Woodbury house. 
Hart St. (continuation of Hale St.) [^] (to cemetery). 
I. Haskell St. [i] (to little flagstaff in valley) . 
0-. Webster Ave. [5]. 
I. Greenwood Ave. [J]. 
r. Common St. [J]. 

I. Foster St. [^] (to railroad track, ''Paradise Corner"). 
r. Cole St. [J]. 
I. Essex St. [U]. 

Montserrat R. R. station at right. Residence of Lucy Larcom, No. 
59. Briscoe school-house "1674-1874." 
r. Federal St. [i]. 

Pottery in Lawrence court. 

KETURN TO : 

r. Cabot St. 

First Baptist church. Town Hall. Bank building. Cabot house, 
No. 104. 

Manchester. A continuation of the Beverly Farms drive takes one 
into the town of Manchester about nine miles, one of the finest seaside 
resorts on the Atlantic coast. "The Singing Beach," beyond the Masco- 
nomo, the largest hotel, is the principal attraction. There are many 
pretty cottages and villas at Manchester, especially on Smith's Point, 
which add to the attractiveness of the scenery. The Essex County club 
house located in the northerly portion of the town and its colonial build- 



132 



visitor's guide to SALEM. 



ing and well arranged grounds for polo, golf, etc., form one of the finest 
establishments of this sort in New England. 

Chebacco Ponds. A delightful drive may be taken through the woods, 
either from Beverly Farms or Manchester, to Chebacco Ponds, in Ham- 
ilton, or direct by the Essex road from Salem. The Cheba<:co hotels 
furnish opportunity for an excellent dinner or supper, and boats are 
always available for rowing or fishing on the lake. 

Wenhain Lake. The City Water Works grounds at Wenham Lake 
are about five miles from the city. The carriage road from Colon street, 
Beverly, to the reservoir, is open for driving on afternoons and on Sun- 
days. The reservoir is on Chipman's Hill, North Beverly, and from its 
borders an extended view of the surrounding country can be obtained. 
It has a capacity of 20,000,000 gallons. The pumping station is about 
a mile from the reservoir, on the borders of the lake, which is a beautiful 
sheet of water, with an area of 320 acres. The interior of the engine and 
pump house is worthy of inspection. 

To Wenham, Asbury Grove and Hamilton. A drive of about eight 
miles may be made in connection with tlie last. The Methodist Camp 
Grounds are occupied through the summer, the meeting itself being held 
in August. At Hamilton, the Myopia Club has its headquarters, with its 
hunts, polo and other attractions. 

Route FROM Salem to Wenham Lake and Rkturn, via Danvers — 9 miles, 

STAKTIXG FRO.M BEVERLY IJRIDGE. , 

r. Cabot St [2|]. 

Cal)ot house, No. 104. Bank huilding. Town Hall. First Baptist 
church. Salem Reservoir, 
(or through the reservoir road, from 2-6 p. m., from Cabot St., at rail- 
road cro-sinj; ) 
(or leave Cabot at Essex, thence Brimble ave. to Dodge St.) 



DRIVES AND WALKS. 1 33 

r. Bodge St. [1]. (Coutiime on to Weiiliam Lake and Asbury Grove in 
Hamilton.) 

KKTURN : 

r. Conant St. [i]. 

North Beverly cliurcli. Old Parsonage, 1715. Ancient cemetery. 
l. Cabot St. [4]. ' 
r. Balch St. [1]. 
r. Cabot St. [J]. 
r. Beckford St. [4]. 
r. Elliot St. [I]. 
L Green St. [^]. 
r. Bridge St. [U]. 

Rial Side. Joshua's Mountain. "Kernwood" across river. 
L Elliot St. [I]. Danvers. 

Folly hill. 
I. Liberty St. [|]. 

Spite Bridge. 
I. Water St. [1]. 

View of Orchard Farm. Read Mansion. 
Margin St. [^], Peabody. 
North St. [1], Salem. 

Peabody. Peabody, the birthplace of George Peabody, the London 
banker, is about two miles from Salem and the drive embraces many 
points of interest. The town, originally South Danvers, was named 
Peabody in honor of the philanthropist in 1868. The Peabody Institute, 
founded by a bequest of $200,000 from George Peabody, should be 
visited. Here is deposited a portrait of Queen Victoria painted on enamel, 
the colors being burned in, and backed by a sheet of gold. The pic- 
ture was a gift from the Queen to Mr. Peabody. The Sutton Reference 
Library, in the same building, was founded in 1869 by Mrs. Eliza Sut- 
ton, as a memorial of her son, Eben Dale Sutton. On Main street, at 
the intersection of Washington street, is a granite monument erected in 



134 visitor's guide to salem. 

memory of the men from this town (then Danvers) who fell in the battles 
of Lexington and Concord, April 19, 1775. A fine monument erected 
to the memory of those killed during the Civil War is located in the 
Square. 

Danvers. Leaving Salem by North street the drive to Danvers takes 
one into an historic locality. A part of what is now Danvers was in- 
cluded in Salem Village in the days of witchcraft. At Danversport is 
"Old Orchard Farm," where ,Gov. Endicott at one time resided and 
where may still be seen the "Endicott pear tree," claimed to be the oldest 
cultivated fruit tree in New England, From its branches the first gov- 
ernor of the Massachusetts Bay Colony picked fruit, and it is still pro- 
ductive. Li this town are the birthplace of Gen. Israel Putnam and 
the historic Collins house where General Gage established his headquar- 
ters in ante-Revolutionary days, when he was appointed by the King 
governor of the colony. At *'the Centre" is the site of the Salem Vil- 
lage parsonage, where the witchcraft delusion had its birth. Near "West 
Danvers Junction" is the site of Giles Corey's house. The site of the 
state asylum for the insane on Hathorne Hill is a very commanding one, 
and the buildings are extensive and of the most approved construction. 
The cost of the asylum and grounds has been about ^1,500,000. 

Danvkks Route — 13 miles. 

city hall, salem. 

Washington St. 

» Court houses. 
/. Bridge St. 
r. North St. [1]. 

North bridge. Catholic cemetery. 
Danvers line. 



DRIVES AND WALKS. 1 35 

Water St. [IJ (continuation of North St.)- 

Gardner's hill. (From this hill, over which llie road passes, one 
may see stretched out before hiin Dauvers, Beverly and Salem. 
The asylum looms up at the left.) 
Jacobs' farm. (House standing in Avhich George Jacobs lived in 
1692. His grave can also be seen.) 
I. Endicott St. [i]. 

Endicott farm and pear tree. (Pear tree said to have been set out 
here in 1G30.) 

r.ETURN TO : 

I. Water St. [g]. 

Dnnversport R. 11. Station (site of the first building erected in 
Danversport). 
Liberty St [1]. (continuation of Water St.). 

Liberty bridge, or "Spite" bridge. 
Junction of Liberty. Eliot (to Folly Hill and Beverly), Burley St. (to Put- 
namville) and Conant St. (to IpsAvich). 

Folly Hill. (Described by Hawthorne On the top of this hill Wm. 
Brown, a wealthy merchant, afterwards a Tory, built a mansion 
with a hall opening to the four points of the compass. It was 
popularly known as "Brown's Folly.'') 
I. Conant St. [§]. 

Frost fish brook. (From this landing probably the earliest set- 
tlers of Danvers, about 1630, struck inland, having reached this 
point by boat.) 
Conant St. [4]. 
Danver.s Square, Danvers Historical Societj^ Berry Tavern. 

The room of the Society is in the Bank Building uji one flight. Here is a very fine col- 
lection of old china, etc., also of Revolutionary relics, MSS., etc. There are many 
l>ortraits, among wiiich are those of Dr. Amos Putnam, 1765, or earlier, the poet Wiiit- 
tier, Gen. Mo,«es Porter, and A. A. Low, of Brooklyn, a benefactor of the Society. 
The curator is usually at the room which is open to visitors. 



Elm St. [i]. (continuation of Conant St.). 



136 



visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Paj?e house. (Here Gen. Gage had his office in 1774). Town liall 
(junction of Holten and Sylvan Sts). Soldiers' monument, erected 
to soldiers of 1861-5. 
Sylvan St. [^] (continuation of Elm St.). 

Peabody lustitute. (The present building was erected in 1892, the 
former building having been destroyed by fire. Established by 
George Peabody of London.) 
Pass to Holten St., either by edge of Millpond, or cross Institute grounds 
reaching Holten St. by Peabody Ave. 
By the edge of the pond on the northern side of the road stands 
the house long the home of Judge Samuel Putnam. 
r. Holten St. to Cherry. 

Episcopal church, corner of Cherry. 
I. Cherry St. [i]. Cross E. R. track. 
I. Maple St. [i]. 

Armory of Danvers Light Infantry (organized in 1891). 
r. Locust St. (By continuing north on this road and taking the right 
hand roads one may reach Wenham pond and North Beverly. See 
Routes above.) 

Corner of Poplar St. the site of an ancient Porter house, after- 
ward occupied by Hon. Timothy Lindall. 
L Poplar St. 

Lindall Hill. (Formerly known as Sharpe's and Porter's hill from 
former owners.) 
Maple St. [i] (continuation of Poplar). 
r. Summer St. [i]. 

Wadsworth Cemetery. (Here are the graves of Elizabeth, wife 
of Rev. Sam^ Parris, of witchcraft notoriety; of Parson Wads- 
worth, of the Clarkes, Hobarts, and many of the Putnams. This 
is probably the oldest cemetery in Danvers, and was originally 
the Putnam family cemetery.) Birthplace of Hon. James Putnam 
(last Atty. Gen. of Mass. under the crown, Judge Supreme Court, 
New Brunswick, "The best lawyer in America," Pres. Adams.) 
Covered well just beyond the birthplace of James Putnam in the 



DRIVES AND WALKS. 



137 



field to the left is near site of home of John Pntnam, Sr. (Road 
passes over the site.) 

Note:— John Putnam from Co. Bucks, Eng , lineal descendant from William 
Puttenham, of Puttenham, (3o. Herts, circa 1492. settled in Danvere on this 
spot about 1634. From liim in the 4th generation was descended Gen. Israel 
Putnam, born in Danvers. In the filth generation Geo. Rufus Putnam, the 
friend of Washington, and founder of Ohio, "the Fatlier of the Northwest;" 
also of the same generation Perley and Henry Putnam, killed on 19 Apr., 
177.5, at Lexington, were born in this town, and Nathan Putnam, wonnded. 15 
members of tiiis family marched to Lexington upon the alarm. No other 
one family contributed so many men to the Revolutionary army and Un- 
ion forces, durins: our late war as this. Among divines of this family born in 
Danvers may be mentioned Rev. Israel Warburton Putnam, and Rev. Alfred 
Porter Putnam, and of this family, although born in Salem, Prof. Frederic 
Ward Putnam, of Cambridge. 

See history of the Putnam family in England and America, by Eben Putnam. 

Oak Knoll. (Late home of John Greenleaf Whittier.) 
I. Spring Ave. [^]. 

St. John's College (Roman Catliolic. Honse built by Jacob 
Spring, Esq., from stone quarried in Danvers). Prince honse 
(Osburn house. Sarah Osburn, widow of Robert Prince, was 
handed for witchcraft in 1692). Prince family cemetery (near 
railroad in a small grove of oaks to the left). 
l. Nichols St. (continnation of Spring Ave.). 

Beaver Brook R. R. Station. 
r. Maple St. [i] 

Corner of Nichols stands a house built by William, brother of Gen, 

Israel Putnam. Beaver Brook. Col. Jesse Putnam house on left 

(sets back, long buildings shaded by magnificent elms). 

One may reach Middle ton by continuing upon this road for 2i miles, 

whence one may return by the upper road on the southern side of 

Asylum hill, meeting this route at the corner of Ingersoll and Centre Sts. 

Gen. Israel Putnam birthplace on right. (The rear is the oldest, 

and in that part Israel Putnam was born.) Danvers State Lun- 

alle Asylum, View from hill one of the. finest in Essex Co. 



1^8 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Grounds open at all times. Buildings open Wednesdays and 
Saturdays. This hill is rightly styled "Hathorne's Hill," from a 
remote ancestor of Nathaniel Hawthorne 
l. Newbury St [i], (Newburyport and Boston turnpike. The "Half- 
way house" stood within a few minutes' walk to the northward.) 
By turning to the right from Maple street and following the turnpike 
one may reach the I'ierce farm in Topsfleld, distant 2^ miles ; or by tak- 
ing the "old Boxford road" which leaves the turnpike on the left, reach 
"Ferncroft." 
L In;:ersoll St. [|]. 

Peabody place. (Now a summer residence of Hon. William C. 
Endicott, late Secretary of War.) 
I. Centre St. 

Training field on left, Parson Wadsvvorth house on left. Site 
of liev. Saml. Parris house, 1692, on left. Meeting house first 
parish since 1702. 
?. HobartSt. [i|]. 

To site of church in 1692. (In plowed field just beyond Forest St.) 

KE TURN TO : 

I. Centre St. [L]. 

Judue Holten house (corner of Holten St.). Famous patriot. For 

the Genealogy of the Holten Family see Essex Institute Historical 

Collections. 
I. Holten St. [i^g]. 

Holten cemetery. (^Graves of Holten family to right of entrance.) 

RKTURN TO : 

I. Collins St. [,\] (continuation of Centre St.). 

Cross K. R. Rebecca Nurse farm, house and monument, also that 
erected to the memory of Nathaniel Putnam and others who stood 
forth ill her deft-nce. The grounds are open. (Rebecca Nurse was 
executed for witchcraft.) 
Collins St. [|]. 
Collins house, built by Hooper in 17 — . (Headquarters of Gen. 



DRIVES AND WALKS. 1 39 

Gage. Opposite, in the field, was the camp of two companies of 
the 64th British Reg., afterwards in the expedition to Lexing- 
ton.) 

Pine St. [i] (continuation of Collins St.). 

Peabody line. 2 m. from Peabody line to Square, and i m. to 
Town House Square, Salem. 

Andover St. 
Rogers' farm 

Central St. 

Lowell St. 

Peabody Square. 

Main St. 

Lexington monument. Peabody Institute, founded by George 
Peabody, of London. 

Ancient Cemetery. 

Salem line (follow horse-car track). 

MiDDLETON AND DaNVEHS ROUTE.— 18 MILES. 

Leaving Danvt-rs Route (page 137), continue on Maple St. to Middleton, 

[2d]. 
Town Square. Flint Public Library. 

l. So. Main St. [U]. 

L West St. [i]. Cross Ipswich River. 

r. Dayton St. [1]. Cross turnpike. 

Z. Centre St. Join Danvers route at junction of Ingersoll and Centre 
street (page 138). 

(Or, leaving Maple street at entrance to Asylum grounds, take right hand 
road pa.st gas works, then left hand road through the asylum grounds 
and pass out by the Thomas Putnam house at the corner of Dayton 
street ; by turning to the right one will shortly enter Maple street ; to 
the left will bring one out by the same route as above, but will cut 
out the town of Middleton with the pretty drive along and over 
Ipswich river. By turning to the left on reaching West street, the 
route may be reversed.) 



140 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Note:— The Thomas Putnam house is still standing but much altered. Here 
lived Thomas the oldest grandchild of John Putnam (see page 137, note), 
whose daughter Ann, a child of but twelve years, was drawn into the witch- 
craft excitement by her older companions, and made to play a conspicuous 
part in that tragic occurrence. She lived and died in tliis house, and was 
buried in the Putnam cemetery oflf Nicliols and Maple street, opposite the 
Asylum depot. The tomb and that of her parents is to-day covered by a 
luxuriant growth of shrubs and trees. She never married. Her story is told 
in Mrs. C. E. Upham's Salem Witclicraft in Outline. 

As this latter route has been for a long time partially closed to the pub- 
lic the road is not in the best condition but is perfectly safe. The 
road is a very ancient town way, laid out by the town. 

Floating Bridge, on the old Boston turnpike, about three miles from 
the city, is worthy of a visit. It is a plank bridge about 450 feet 
long, which, as its name indicates, floats like a raft on the water. The 
water crossed is a pond with swampy borders. This drive may be ex- 
tended to Lynn returning to Salem by the Swampscott drive previously 
given. 

Walks about the City. 

Walk No. 7, from Town House square, through Essex, Union, Derby 
and Turner streets, the following points of interest would be passed : 

r. First Church, corner of Washington ; tablets. 

r. Market House. ToAvn Hall 1817, at Derby Square and Essex (rear). 

r. Peabody Academy of Science, 161 Essex; Museum of natural history 
and ethnology ; open from 9 to 5 week days and from 2 to 5 'Sun- 
day afternoons. Free. 

r. Liberty street to Charter street, r. to Charter street burying ground 
and "Dr. Grimshawe House," and I. to Salem Hospital, open Wed- 
nesdays from 2 to 5. Church of the Immaculate Conception (Ro- 
man Catholic) beyond. 




T.mariAyP'^^^''"^' 



DRIVES AND WALKS. 



141 



Eeturn to Essex. 



I. Cadet Armory, 136 Essex, portraits, banquet hall. Free, upon appli- 
cation to janitor. 
. I. Salem Athenaeum, 134 Essex, library. Free, upon application to li- 
brarian. 

?. Essex Institute, 132 Essex ; historical museum and library. Free, 
open every day except Sundays and holidays from 9 to 5 in "winter 
and until (> in summer. 
Old First Church, rear of above, free. Apply at Essex In.stitute and 
register name. 

/. Hawthorne's birthplace, 21 Union street. Admission, 25 cents. 

I. Large white poplar, 11 feet in circumference, yard 120 Derby. 

I. Old Ladies' Home, 114 Derby. Admission on Wednesday afternoons 
from 2 to 5. 

I. Custom House, 112 Derby; old maritime records, etc. Free, apply 
to custodian. 

I. Bertram Home for Aged Men, 70 Derby. Admission, Wednesdays 
from 2 to 5. 

r. Turner House, 34 Turner street ("Seven Gables" so called). Admis- 
sion, 25 cents. 

r. Bethel of the Salem Marine Society. 

This walk may be continued to the Willows, or street cars may be tak- 
en, passing road to Pkuiimer Farm School on r (admission Wednesdays 
from 3 to 5). 

Wa/k No. 2, from Town House square, through Washington, Bridge, 
North, Essex, Boston, Hanson, return to Boston, Federal, Flint, Broad, 
Summer, Norman to B. & M. station, would include the following points 
of interest = 

r. City Hall, 93 Wasliington, portraits, old Indian deed, etc. Free, open 
every week day, except holidays and Saturday afternoons. Apply 
to the janitor. 



142 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

I. Site of Witchcraft Court House (see tablet). 

I. Rare hybrid wahiut tree, rear of Odell Block, corner Lynde and Wash- 
ington. 

I. Tabernacle Church (Orthodox) , next 52 Washington. 

I. Court Houses, corner Federal, old records, witchcraft documents, 
witch pins, etc. Free, closed holidays and Saturday afternoons. 

r. North Bridge, Leslie's retreat (see tablet). 

Return on North to Essex. 

I. Wesley Church (Methodist Episcopal), 10 North. 

r. Roger Williams or Witch House, Essex, corner North. Free, apply- 
to J. F. Upton, apothecary. 

r. Southern Catalpa tree in yard of Witch House. 

r. North Church (Unitarian), next 314 Essex. 

I. Sliattuck House, witchcraft times, 317 Essex. 

I. Spire of South Church on Chestnut, seen from Cambridge and Essex. 

r. Fine sugar maple tree on estate 318 Essex. 

I. Swedenborgian Church, 339 Essex. 

r. Public Library, 370 Essex, library and reading room. Free ; those es- 
pecially interested in library work should apply to librarian if de- 
sirous of visiting workrooms. 

r. Bertram Elm, in Public Library grounds, seventy-five j'ears old, trunk 
13 feet in circumference. 

I. Grace Church (Episcopal), 381 Essex. 

I. Old buttonwood trees, at 393 Essex, ten feet in circumference. 

The old road to Boston passed west of Norman's Rocks, the ledge 
which rises abruptly atth« entrance of Highland Ave., at the head 
of Essex St. and west of Boston St. , until a bridge was built in 1640 
on the present line of the last named street over a little tidal 
stream at a point where the Hose house now stands at the corner of 
Gcodhae St., and which was called the Town Bridge. An old mile 
stone which marked the Salem and Dan vers boundary at the Big 
Tree and previously in front of the tavern at the crest of the liill on 
Boston St. and which bears the inscription "S(alem) June Y^ 11 



DRIVES AND WALKS. 143 

1707" and also indicating that Salem was one mile and Boston four- 
teen miles distant, may now be seen in the grounds of the Fca- 
body Academy, which institution obtained it a few years since 
it having been removed from its old resting place and laid aside as 
useless. 
I. Gallows Hill, from Boston street, head of Hanson. Here nine 
persons were hanged for witchcraft. 

Ketukn to Boston street. 

l. St. James Church TKoman Catholic), 156 Federal, spire 207 feet high. 

r. Bowditch school (boys and girls, grammar) 35 Flint. 

I. Arch of elm trees looking down Chestnut street from 25 Flint. 

r. English yew tree, on bank by house 31 Broad, corner of Hathorne, 
planted in 1848. 

r. Southern bald cypress tree fifty years old in yard 27 Broad. 

r. Broad Street Cemetery, first used 1655. Ancient stones and some in- 
teresting trees. 

r. High school; next, Oliver (primary) school; next. State Normal 
school. Admission to last on application to principal. City 
schools, apply at buildings. 

I. Horsechestnut tree, yard of "The Studio," corner Chestnut and Sum- 
mer, seventy-seven years old, eight and one-half feet in circum- 
ference. 

Wa/k No. J, from Town House square, through Washington, Church, 
St. Peter, Bridge to the " Essex Bridge," return on Bridge, through 
Winter, Washington square (east side), Essex, the following points 
would be passed : 

r. City Hall. . g^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^ 

I. Site of witchcraft trials. J 

I. Fire department headquarters, 30 Church. Free, apply to custodian. 

I. Flue honey locust tree at No. 10 Church. 

r. St. Peter's Church, foot of Church. 



1^4 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 

r. Central Baptist Church, St. Peter St., opposite Federal. 

I. Site of witchcraft jail. No. 4 Federal, near St. Peter. 

r. Old John Ward house, built in 1684. 

County Jail, corner Bridge and St. Peter. Admission upon appli- 
cation to custodian. 

r. Howard Street Cemetery, corner Bridge and HoAvard. Austrian pine 
in cemetery near street. 

r. Fine horsechestnut tree, corner Bridge and Pleasant. 

r. Fruit-bearing English walnut tree, 70 years old, in yard 109 Bridge. 

I. Trap dike rock, site of Winthrop's landing, 1630, west side of Essex 
Bridge near Salem end. 

Essex Bridge. Views of harbor and Danvers river; many yachts are 
wintered here between the bridges. Good collecting ground for 
marine life. 
Rkturn on Bridge to Winter street. 

r. Dutch elm at 15 Winter. 

Washington square contains many fine elms, American ashes and some 
young maples. The toAvers of the East Church (Unitarian) west- 
ern side of square. 

I. Narbonne House, built before 1680, 71 Essex. 

r. Phillips school house, next No. 82 Essex. 

I. Calvary Baptist Church, corner Essex and Herbert. 

r. Franklin Building, corner Essex and Washington square. 

r. Essex Institute. } See Walk No. 1. 

Z. Peabody Academy of Science. J 

JVa/k No. 4, from Town House square, tlirough Washington and La- 
fayette streets, Clifton and Summit avenues, Leach, Lafayette, Peabody, 
Union and Essex streets, the following points would be passed : 

r. Post Office, 118 Washington street. 

r. Boston and Maine R. E. station, Nciman and Washington streets. 

I. District Court rooms, 193 Washington. 

I. Steam fire engine house, Washington and Lafayette streets. 



DRIVES AND WALKS. 



M5 



I. City Orphan Asylum (Roman Catholic), 89 Lafayette. Admission on 

application to sisters in charge. 
Fine American elms on both sides of upper Lafayette street, planted by 

E. H.Derby in 1808. 
r. English elm, inside fence of estate opposite Clifton avenue; and ten 

rods west of it, in field, southern bald cypress, 100 years old, 

trunk eleven feet in circumference. 
English oaks on both sides of Clifton avenue and red oaks on hill at r. 
(Continuing on Clifton avenue leads to Batchelder's Point, fine view of 

harbor; bitter n-^t hickories, oaks, etc., grow here. 
White maples on boih sides of Summit avenue, 
r. Bertram school house, corner Summit and Willow avenues. 

Return on Lafayette street. 
r. St. Joseph's Church ^Roman Catholic, French), 39 Lafayette. 
r. Methodist Episcopal Church, corner Harbor and Lafayette. 
I. Electric Lighting Co. works, 21 Peabody street. Admission on ap- 
plication to superintendent. 
r. Naumkeag Steam Cotton Co., foot of Peabody street. Apply for 

special information at office. 
r. Hawthorne's birthplace, 21 Union street, etc. See Walk No. 1. 

To the private houses mentioned in this Guide the visiting public can 
not, of course, expect to obtain admission, and the)' are not therefore 
enumerated in the above " walks." Many quaint houses will be passed, 
however, singly and in groups, and on many of the side streets may still 
be found houses that are interesting by reason of the door head with a 
bit of Macintire casing, or some simple architectural adornment, a re- 
minder of the last century. 
12 



CHAPTER XL 

Hawthorne in Salem. 

SO many visitors come to Salem desiring to see the places associated 
with the life and literary work of Nathaniel Hawthorne, the compil- 
ers of the Guide have prepared this chapter with the hope it may 
assist the admirers of the great author in tl:^pir sentimental search. A 
brief outline is given, to begin with, of the periods of Hawthorne's stay 
in various places, and this is followed by fuller references to the princi- 
pal points of interest connected with his life in Salem, the houses in which 
he resided while here and the scenes depicted in his works. Of course 
this list could be extended by references to his "American Note Books," 
but as these notes speak for themselves it is thought unnecessary to do 
so. The places described by Hawthorne in his stories and essays are 
often glorified by the wealth of his vivid imagination, and this his ad- 
mirers should always keep in mind when looking upon the bare reality of 
the places he portrayed. A few references to such places are given here, 
and one can hardly make a more pleasant pilgrimage or pay a more fit- 
ting tribute to this favorite writer, than by spending a half-hour, book in 
hand, reading one of his beautiful sketches, upon the very spot where 
Hawthorne himself stood when the inspiration seized him to write it. 

Thoughtless critics who, perhaps, have themselves but recently dis- 
covered Hawthorne, often condemn Salem for not appreciating its native 
(146) 




THE. ^ft^^"^ tiA&i.es " 



HAWTHORNE IN SALEM. 



147 



author sooner. But why should Salem have seen what no one else saw? 
Hawthorne left Salem, finally, in 1850, before the publication of the 
" Scarlet Letter ;" he was retiring in disposition and objected to and 
avoided social attentions. He had nearly always written anonymously 
and was comparatively unknown to the world. Hawthorne himself 
writes, in 1840, upon receiving an invitation to a party, '• Why will not 
people let poor persecuted me alone?" and a casual glance at the por- 
tions of Julian Hawthorne's "Nathaniel Hawthorne and his Wife," re- 
ferred to in the index under "society," "shyness," "seclusion," etc., 
will prove conclusively that it was Hawthorne and not Salem that was 
at fault, if any fault there was. This self-seclusion was a family trait and 
Hawthorne's life was surrounded by its influences, — the grieving widowed 
mother and the retiring sister, — and the wonder is that the effect was not 
seriously injurious to that life. Our distinguished citizen, the late Dr. 
George B. Loring, himself connected by marriage with the family of 
Hawthorne's wife, writing on the treatment of Hawthorne by Salem, in a 
letter to be found, — and well worth careful perusal, — in Conway's "Life 
of Hawthorne" (p. 116), says in opening : — " Salem did not ' treat its il- 
lustrious son ' at all, because he gave it no opportunity. He was a recluse 
there always." 

Many of Hawthorne's writings have caused much personal ill-feeling 
and great dissensions. Like Daudet, in Paris, he has freely used in his 
writings, and with Httle disguise, persons and places, and has held their 
characteristics fully up to the light, emphasized at every point ; and, like 
that eminent French author, he has brought maledictions down upon his 
own head in consequence. It matters little whether these things were 
done from thoughtlessness or with spite. It is not the province of this 
Guide to recall unpleasant memories in this connection and, purposely, 
all reference to personal matters are here omitted ; and it is hoped, 



148 VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM. 

therefore, that this chapter may lead to points of interest and ways of 
pleasure. 

Periods of Residence. Nathaniel Hawthorne was born in the house 
now numbered 21 Union street, Salem, July 4, 1804. In 1808 his wid- 
owed mother with her children removed to a house in the rear of this, 
but facing Herbert street, now a tenement house numbered 10^ and 12. 
He lived here until 18 18, then at Raymond, Maine, for a short time, re- 
turning to the Herbert street house in 1819-20. He was at Bowdoin 
College, 1821 to 1825 and it was at about this last date that the w first 
appeared in his name. He was after this at the Herbert street house a 
short time, then, from 1828-32, in a house on Dearborn street, now re- 
moved to a site opposite the spot upon which it originally stood and 
numbered 26. He was in the Herbert street house in 1838, and again 
for short periods in 1840 and 1846. In 1839 and 1840 he was in the 
Boston Custom House and resided in Boston. In 1841 he was at Brook 
Farm. He was married to Sophia Amelia Peabody in Boston, July 9, 
1842, and went to the " Old Manse," Concord, Mass., where his eldest 
daughter, Una, was born. He came back to Salem in the fall of 1845, 
was appointed surveyor of the port of Salem in 1846, and Julian was born 
in Boston during that year. While serving at the Salem Custom House 
he lived first in the old homestead in Herbert street, then in the house 
number 18 Chestnut street, and finally in the house number 14 Mall st. 
He lost the Custom House position in 1849, and ^^^ ^^^ Lenox in 1850- 
51, where his younger daughter, Rose, now Mrs. Lathrop, was born. He 
lived in West Newton, where the "Blithedale Romance" was written, in 
1851-52, and settled in his last American home, the " Wayside," in Con- 
cord, in 1852. He became American consul at Liverpool in 1853, and 
retained that ofiice until 1857. He then travelled in Italy, rested in Rome 
and Florence, and returning to England, completed the "Marble Faun" 



HAWTHORNE IN SALEM. 



149 



therein 1859. In July, 1S60, he returned to " The Wayside " to pass 
the last few years of his life. He died quietly in his sleep during the 
night of May 18, 1864, at the Pemigewasset House at Plymouth, N. H., 
while travelling for his health with his old friend ex- President Frank- 
lin Pierce. 

T/ie Birth-place. Hawthorne was born in the northwest chamber in 
the second story of the gambrel-roofed house now numbered 21, on the 
eastern side of Union street. The house was built prior to the time of 
the witchcraft delusion by one of the many in Salem who have borne the 
name of Benjamin Pickman. It came into the possession of the grand- 
father of Hawthorne in 1772, and with the exception of a modern front 
door, with long glass panels and modern windows, the house is in about 
the same condition as when the great author was born. An iron crane 
from one of the open fireplaces of this house is preserved at the Essex 
Institute : the very one, perhaps, that swung over the fire that first attract- 
ed the infant eyes of the author and which served to support the pots and 
kettles from which the family table was supplied in the universal manner 
of the times. In 1808, however, Hawthorne's father died at Surinam, 
while on a voyage in command of the *' Nabby," and the family removed 
to the 

Herbert Street House (now numbered 10^ and 12), then owned by 
Hawthorne's maternal grandfather, Richard Manning. This house was 
built about 1 790 ; it faced on Herbert street, although the lands of the 
two estates joined in the rear. It is stated in Mrs. Elizabeth Manning's 
interesting and valuable historical article on "The Boyhood of Haw- 
thorne " in the " Wicle Awake " for November, 1891, that Hawthorne's 
" room was in the southwest corner of the third story, overlooking his 
birth-place," and that '' he scratched his name with a diamond " on a 
pane of glass in one of its windows. This pane of glass is now carefully 



150 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 



preserved by the family. This is the chamber referred to and not the 
one in the Union street house, as stated by the editor of his " American 
Notes," p. 21 (1836), in the sentence : — " In tliis dismal chamber FAME 
was won," and again in the frequently- quoted letter written October 4, 
1840 : — "Here I sit in my old accustomed chamber where I used to sit 
in days gone by. Here I have written many tales. . . . Should I 
have a biographer he ought to make great mention of this chamber in my 
memoirs, because so much of my lonely youth was wasted here," etc. It 
was while a boy, in this house, that Hawthorne used to play in the old- 
fashioned stage coaches which belonged to his uncle Manning's stage 
company, whose stables at the time were near by on Union street. Haw- 
thorne lived in the Herbert street house at various times while a boy and 
young man, and twice for brief periods later, the last times being when 
the letter last quoted was written, between his service at the Boston cus- 
tom house and his Brook farm life, and in 1845-46, just before taking 
the position of surveyor in the Salem Custom House. 

From 1828-32 he lived with his mother in a house which was built for 
Madam Hathorne by her brother on land adjoining the present Man- 
ning homestead on Dearborn street. It was sold, however, afterward and 
moved to the opposite side of the street, where as number 26 it may be 
seen to-day, somewhat changed, of course, in consequence of its migra- 
tions. But Hawthorne was ever returning, again and again, to the old 
Herbert street home, so that in all he passed more of his days here than 
in any other house during his life ; this house, therefore, was more than 
any other his real home, for in the words of his own son and biographer 
(" Hawthorne and His Wife," Vol. i, p. 429), *'In fact after freeing him- 
self from Salem, Hawthorne never found any permanent rest anywhere." 
When young, Hawthorne received an injury to his foot which compelled 
him to remain quietly at home. At this time the famous lexicographer, 



HAWTHORNE IN SALEM. 



151 



J. E. Worcester, kept a school in Salem which Hawthorne attended, and 
during the time of this injury Mr. Worcester went frequently to the Her- 
bert street house to attend his lame pupil. The residence in Raymond, 
Maine, followed, but in 1819 Hawthorne returned to Salem. He pre- 
pared for Bowdoin College under the care of the Salem lawyer, B. Lynde 
Oliver, Esq., and entered that institution in 1821, graduating in 1825, 
at about which time he appears to have inserted the w in his name, his 
ancestors usually having written it Hathorne. It was during this and the 
next period of his life, closing in 1838, that he acted as a clerk for the 
stage company, which the Mannings largely owned, travelled about iii 
the stages, wrote stories and finally, anonymously, published "Fanshawe'' 
and the first volume of "Twice Told Tales." This house is, therefore, 
associated with nearly all the important events of Hawthorne's early life, 
and it is to be regretted that it should not be preserved otherwise than 
for its present use, a tenement house. 

During his life in the Manning house on Herbert street, Hawthorne was 
very intimate in the family of a kinsman and neighbor who occupied the 
spacious colonial residence, with a garden of the old-fashioned sort at its 
rear, at the foot of the same street. Here he had a chamber devoted to 
himself and, as he liked, he remained at the house and ate or slept 
there. He wrote much in this chamber and in a still more favorite place, 
the old garden, where he often sat musing and writing near a quaint lit- 
tle summer house and beneath the shade of an old apple tree. It is prob- 
able that many of his earlier stories were written at this house or under 
the tree in its garden. 

The Chesinut Street House. Little interest attaches itself to the house 
number 18 Chestnut street, which was taken temporarily by the Haw- 
thornes in 1846. Julian was born in Boston in June of that year and 
the " Old Manse " had been given up in 1845. Hawthorne became sur- 



1^2 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

veyor of the port of Salem in 1846, and this house, occupied in all about 
sixteen months, seems to have little of his literary work connected with 
it. April 23, 1847, Mrs. Hawthorne wrote while in this house : — " We 
may have to stay here during the summer after all. Birds do visit our 
trees in Chestnut street and Una talks incessantly about flowers and 
fields." This house has been considerably altered since Hawthorne lived 
in it. While living here, to avoid callers whom he did not wish to see, 
Hawthorne would often slip out of the back door which opened on the 
little court running from Chestnut to Essex street, and go into the house 
of his friend and neighbor, Dr. B. F. Browne, and there remain until the 
visitor had departed. 

The Mall Street House. The family moved to the house number 14 
Mall street in September, 1847. The quiet " study " Hawthorne was to 
have to himself and which made this house so desirable was the front 
room in the third story. Here the volume entitled " The Snow Image " 
was prepared and " The Scarlet Letter " written ; a picture of the Mall 
street house, with a " Snow Image " in the yard before it, appearerl in 
one of the earlier editions of that work. It was a house out of which the 
Hawthornes expected much joy, but reaped instead, sadness and finan- 
cial distress, although lasting literary fame and public attention came to 
him there. The Custom House appointment was in March, 1846, and 
he remained in office until June, 1849, when he writes " I am turned 
out of office." It was to this house he went home to tell the serious 
news to his wife. It was here, upon learning it, that she said "Very well, 
now you can write your romance," and it was here, that this prudent 
wife, at the same time, and in answer to Hawthorne's query as to how 
they should live meanwhile, opened the bureau drawer and showed him 
the gold she had saved from the portion of his salary which, from time 
to time, he had placed in her hands. The romance written was the 



HAWTHORNE IN SALEM. 153 

" Scarlet Letter." It was written under extraordinary pressure, for dis- 
missal from office and pecuniary distress, Madam Hathorne's death, 
July 31, 1849, and severe personal illness afflicted the author "midway 
in its composition." With a knowledge of these facts one can hardly 
look upon this house without feelings of pity and wonder. It has been 
but slightly changed since Hawthorne left it, in 1850, to reside in Lenox. 
The CJiarter Street House, During the days of Hawthorne's court- 
ship in Salem his future wife resided in the large house number 53 Char- 
ter street adjoining, on its eastern and southern bounds, the "Burying 
Point," the oldest cemetery in Salem. Hawthorne was not married in 
this house, as many persons suppose, but at 13 West street, in Boston, 
at the time the residence of Dr. Peabody. The Charter street house 
stands there to-day practically unchanged. Mrs. Hawthorne, then Sophia 
Amelia Peabody, the daughter of Dr. Nathaniel Peabody, was born Sep- 
tember 21, 1809, in a house on Summer street (so says her sister, Miss 
Elizabeth Peabody i-n a private letter), but in 181 2 the family removed to 
one of the houses of the large brick block on Union street, extending 
from Essex, curiously enough but a stone's throw from the birthplace of 
Hawthorne. Being neighbors the children of the two families played 
together while the Hawthornes lived in the Herbert street house, but saw 
little of each other after 18 16 until they met again as old friends in the 
Charter street house in 1838. It is singular that Hawthorne, who must 
have had most delightful associations connected with this house, should 
have recalled its situation in the unpleasant and imperfect "DoUiver Ro- 
mance" and in its still more disagreeable presentment in "Dr. Grimshawe's 
Secret." Yet, there it surely is, for it is described in the first chapter of 
that story as "cornered on a graveyard, with which the house communi- 
cated by a back door," while the house itself was : "a three story wooden 
house, perhaps a century old, low- studded, with a square front standing 



154 visitor's guide to salem. 

right upon the street, and a small enclosed porch, containing the main 
entrance, affording a glimpse up and down the street through an oval 
window on each side." Hawthorne evidently roamed in the old Charter 
street cemetery for, besides incidental mention of it here and elsewhere 
in his works, there is an interesting note of his (American Note Books, i, 
p. no), describing a visit to the place as follows : — "In the old burial- 
ground, Charter street, a slate gravestone, carved around the borders, to 
the memory of 'Col. John Hathorne, Esq.,' who died in 1 71 7. This was 
the witch-judge. The stone is sunk deep into the earth, and leans for- 
ward, and the grass grows very long around it ; and on account of the 
moss, it was rather difficult to make out the date. ... In a corner 

of the burial-ground close under Dr. P 's garden fence, are the most 

ancient stones remaining in the grave-yard. One to *Dr. John Swinner- 
ton, Physician' in 1688 ... of Nathaniel Mather, the younger 
brother of Cotton and mentioned in the Magnalia as a hard student and 
of great promise. 'An aged man at nineteen years,' saith the gravestone. 
It affected me deeply when I cleaned away the grass from the half buried 
stone and read the name. ... It gives strange ideas, to think how 

convenient to Dr. P 's family this burial ground is, the monuments 

standing almost within arm's reach of the side windows of the parlor, 
and there being a little gate from the back yard through which we step 
forth upon these old graves aforesaid." The name of Dr. Swinnerton 
appears in the "Seven Gables" and, again, as the ancient apothecary, 
with the sign of "the brazen serpent," in the "Dolliver Romance" and the 
name of his ancestor Hathorne he has used as freely. The last quotation 
from the "Notes" is almost reproduced in "Dr. Grimshawe's Secret" and 
both house and graveyard are to-day precisely as described fifty-four 
years ago, save perhaps the new fence which has taken the place of the 
old one with the gate which seems to have disappeared. 



HAWTHORNE IN SALEM. I55 

House of the Seven Gables. Inquiries are frequently made for the 
"House of the Seven Gables," a general belief existing that Hawthorne 
described some particular house which was standing in its declining age 
when he wrote the fascinating tale with that title. It would be very pleas- 
ant to direct admirers of the great writer to such a house, but as a matter 
of fact no such house as he described exists or ever has existed. This has 
been definitely settled by the positive statement of Hawthorne himself. 
Yet a house on Turner street is quite often referred to as "The House of 
Seven Gables." It was for many years in the IngersoU family, relatives 
of the Hawthornes, and Hawthorne was a frequent visitor there. It is 
said, on one of these visits. Miss IngersoU told him that the house once 
had seven gables and, taking him to the attic, she showed him the beams 
and mortises to prove the statement. Coming down the stairs Hawthorne 
is said to have repeated, half aloud, "House of the Seven Gables, that 
sounds well," and some time after this the romance bearing this name 
appeared. That the name had come to Hawthorne's mind, and the 
romance had already taken shape before the name had been fully 
decided upon, are shown by a reference to the matter in a letter to a friend 
written by Hawthorne just before the publication of the work where he 
says : "I am beginning to puzzle myself about a title to the book. The 
scene of it is in one of the old projecting storied houses familiar to me 
in Salem. ... I think of such titles as 'The House of Seven Ga^ 
bles,' there being that number of gable ends to the old shanty ; or 'Seven 
Gabled House,' or, simply, 'The Seven Gables.' " The name of the story 
which was then about finished, as here indicated, might easily have 
been suggested by the visit to Miss IngersoU in the Turner street house ; 
but, the house did not have seven gables in Hawthorne's day, if it 
ever did, and the idea must, therefore, have been suggested to him in 
some other way than by the house itself. A story is told, too, of another 



156 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

visit of Hawthorne's to this house which connects it in an interesting way 
with the romance. A friend of Hawthorne's, an adopted son of Miss 
Ingersoll's, who Hved in the house at the time, was one day asleep in his 
chair in the south parlor, in such a position that he could be seen through 
an entryway, and another room, by a person passing in the street glanc- 
ing in at one of the low windows. Seeing him in this way, as he came 
to the house, thinking of other things, Hawthorne was at first startled by 
his friend's appearance in the half shadow and cross-lights. To re-assure 
himself, Hawthorne tapped on the window and waked the sleeper, and 

then rushing into the house he exclaimed : "Good Heavens ! H , I 

thouglit you were dead." The connection of this episode with the pict- 
ure of the dead judge sitting in his chair in the parlor of the "House of 
the Seven Gables" is evident. 

There were many gabled houses standing in Salem in Hawthorne's day 
but all, save the rejuvenated Pickering mansion, have disappeared. One 
at the corner of Washington and Lynde streets, taken down in 1863, 
was the most picturesque of any which remained long enough to be pre- 
served by photography. Although the visitor must give up the real house, 
the old elm tree, the shop, Clifford's chamber, the arched window and the 
secret closet behind the portrait, and understand that the house in the 
romance is a commingling of many gabled houses in Salem, with large 
additions from his own fertile brain, still, Hawthorne's life is closely as- 
sociated with the Turner street house and a visit to it will be of interest. 
The "Tales of Grandfather's Chair" are said to have had their origin in 
this old house also. On one of his visits here while he was sitting in a 
dejected state in one of the window seats of the parlor, Hawthorne was 
complaining that he had written out and could think of nothing more. 
Turning to him, and pointing to an old arm chair that had long been in 
the family. Miss Ingersoll said, "Nat ! Why don't you write about tl s 



HAWTHORNE IN SALEM. I57 

old chair? There must be many stories connected with it." From this 
incident the httle vokime published in 1841 is said to have come. 

The house was built about 1662, and, until the present owner removed 
it a few years ago, had in its centre a huge chimney which when taken 
down disgorged an old psalter and a "pine tree" sixpence. It is the last 
dwelUng house on the western side of the street near the Bethel of the 
Marine Society. There are, however, so many references in the story to 
real places, such as the Post Office, then in East India Marine Hall, and 
the insurance office, in the same locality, mentioned in the chapter en- 
titled ''The Flight of Two Owls," that it is not surprising the mythical 
is mistaken for the real by unsuspecting readers. It was Mr. Horace 
Ingersoll, Miss Susan Ingersoll's adopted son, who told Hawthorne the 
story of the Acadians (Am. Note Books, i, p. 203, 1839), and which, 
given by Hawthorne to Longfellow, appeared in the now classic poem 
of ''Evangeline." This may be added to the other interesting associa- 
tions connected with the Turner street house. 

TJic Custom House. Derby street, opposite Derby wharf. This build- 
ing is fully described and its interesting historical associations are given 
in another chapter (see Public Buildings). Hawthorne was made sur- 
veyor in 1846 and occupied the southwestern front room on the lower 
floor. The stencil with which he marked inspected goods "N. Hawthorne" 
is still shown by his courteous successor in office, but the desk at which 
he wrote will be found at the Essex Institute, it having given place to 
one more in keeping with modern notions of comfort and elegance. So 
many of the characters and scenes depicted in the Custom House sketch 
in the "Introduction to the Scarlet Letter" were living realities it is no won- 
der that visitors inquire for and actually expect to be shown the manu- 
script itself at the Custom House or the Essex Institute. The publication 
of the "Scarlet Letter" at once produced intense curiosity to see this docu- 



158 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

ment of Surveyor Pue and the embroidered ''A" so graphically described, 
and wliich most readers of the story believed to exist. Just at this time 
a friend asked Hawthorne if he really had the scarlet letter itself and he 
assured him that he did. Pressed again on the matter, later, Hawthorne 
said to him : "Well, I did have it ; but, one Sunday when my wife and 
I had gone to church, the children got hold of it and burnt it up." Of 
course, the manuscript was fictitious as was Surveyor Pue's connection 
with the story, his name, only, being real, as his gravestone, still to be 
seen in St. Peter's church yard, indicates. Hawthorne had a way of us- 
ing real names of which he fancied the sound, as that of Dr. Swinnerton, 
previously referred to, whose gravestone is in the Charter street ground, 
and of Jervase Helwyse which he found on one of the branches of his 
own genealogical tree. 

The Town Pump. "A Rill from the Town Pump" was first printed 
in the "New England Magazine" in 1835 and later in "Twice Told Tales." 
The pump was located near the middle of that part of Washington street 
wliich is east of the tunnel in the present Town House Square, but on 
the construction of the railroad, in 1839, the well which supphed it with 
water disappeared and another pump was set up in Washington street 
just by the passageway between the First Church and the Asiatic Build- 
ing which, in time, gave i)lace to the present stone post and brass faucet 
from which flows Wenham lake water. So the real pump from which 
the "Rills" ran can only be seen in old pictures, one of which is fortu- 
nately preserved at the Essex Institute. It gives the pump and its surround- 
ings at about the date of the writing of the essay. The town pumps of 
Hawthorne's day were famous affairs. They were modelled from the old- 
fashioned hand fire-engines — or, the engines from them, perhaps. Framed 
in stone, minus the wheels, and with the "brakes" reduced to heavy han- 
dles on either side, they stood in various parts of the town, settled 



HAWTHORNE IN SALEM. 



59 



permanently over wells, in suitable locations, where the public could freely 
help themselves to the pure water they dispensed. Until quite recently 
there were several of these pumps about the city, the last having been 
removed within a very few years ; but, with the introduction of modern im- 
provements, contamination of the wells from sewerage and other sources 
rendered them dangerous to health and hence their disappearance. In 
some cases the pumps were double structures with two spouts and two 
handles ; such an one was that from which the "rill" ran, while another 
occupied the site of the Theobald Mathew statue on Central street and 
there were still others at the "Witch House," on Boston street and 
elsewhere. At some of the street crossings in the city, at Williams 
street, by the Lafayette street steamer house, and at the corner of War- 
ren and Flint streets, for instance, will be noticed stones with holes in 
them some five or six inches in diameter. These were taken from 
the old town pumps and were the front stones from which the spouts 
of the pump protruded. Hawthorne had a curious pride in this early 
and popular essay. He referred to it when far away in Rome and in the 
introduction of the "Scarlet Letter" written in 1850, he says: — "It may 
be, however — oh ! transporting and triumphant thought — that the great 
grandchildren of the present race may sometimes think kindly of the 
scribbler of bygone days, when the antiquary of days to come, among 
the sites remarkable in the town's history, shall point out the locality of 

THE TOWN PUMP." 

The Toll-gatherers Day. This essay was printed in the " Democratic 
Review" in 1838 or 39. The scene is laid at the Essex bridge, or Beverly 
bridge as it is usually called, which, running north and south from Bridge 
to Cabot streets, connects Salem with Beverly. The bridge, which was 
considered quite a triumph of engineering skill at the time, was built in 
1788, was inspected by Washington who passed over it in 1789, and had 
13 



l6o visitor's guide to SALEM. 

its one hundredth birthday celebrated Sept. 24, 1888, by music, bunt- 
ing, illuminations and displays of fireworks. By the draw, which is still 
lifted hke a huge trap- door by man power, was the old seat ; it would now 
be inconveniently near the passing street cars and, the bridge having 
been made free in 1868, the toll-gatherer only exists to-day as a draw 
tender. The bridge, however, is still a favorite place for a summer even- 
ing walk for the fresh air and to see the beautiful sunsets. 

Eiidicott and the Red Cross. The scene of this tale, which first ap- 
peared in "The Token" of 1838, is laid in Town House Square. The fact 
of Endicott's action exists but the words and scene are, of course, Haw- 
thorne's. The story is, however, suggestive of the feeling of the times 
when a little later, for reasons then apparent to the early colonists, the 
Indian deed was obtained which is now preserved at the City Hall. 

Main Street. First printed in Miss Elizabeth Peabody's "Esthetic 
Papers" in 1849 and later, in the "Snow Image." This, of course, re- 
fers to Essex street ; but, as the diorama closes with the great snow of 
1 717, no relic of things mentioned, save the Curwen house, corner of 
North and Essex streets, can" be found. 

Many other references could be given to places and scenes recorded 
in Hawthorne's writings. In the "Carrier's Addresses" entitled "The 
Sister Years," and "Times Portraiture" written in 1838 for the Gazette, 
the then new City Hall, the present structure, is commented upon ; while 
"I have opened a railroad" refers to the recently acquired communica- 
tion with Boston, "the tall steeple of Dr. Emerson's church" is, of course, 
the South at the corner of Chestnut and Cambridge streets where good 
old parson Emerson retained his connection with the church, — a strange 
thing it would be nowadays — for sixty-seven years, while "Sights from a 
Steeple " refers to the steeple of the third meeting-house of the First 
Church ( 1 718-1826), on the site of the present edifice at the corner of 



HAWTHORNE IN SALEM. l6l 

Essex and Washington streets. "Footi)rints on the Sea shore," printed in 
the '^Democratic Review" in 1838, and later in "Twice Told Tales," finds 
its counterpart in the "ramble to the seashore near Phillips' Beach" where 
Hawthorne "crossed the fields near the Brookhoiise villa" as described 
in the "American Note Books" (Vol. i, p. 94). The story and the notes 
read in connection with each other, an excellent idea is formed of Haw- 
thorne's method of constructing his essays, and the ramble is as delight- 
ful to-day as when Hawthorne spent the afternoon there Oct. 16, 1837. 
Hawthorne frequently visited the rocky shores of Beverly, Manchester, 
Marblehead and Nahant. "Browne's Folly," printed in the "WealReaf," 
finds its duplicate in a walk described in the "American Note Books" (i, 
p. 90, 1837). The weird detached paragraphs of "Alice Doane's Appeal" 
(first printed in "The Token," Boston, 1835), are described as being read 
by the author to "two young ladies," "on a pleasant afternoon in June" 
while they all rested on Gallows Hill. The picture of early Salem here 
recalled is truthful and interesting and the closing paragraph is a fitting 
one with which to close this chapter. Hawthorne here points out the 
true lesson of 1692 and suggests the duty of marking the spot where the 
final acts of the tragedy of those days took place ; a duty which the Es- 
sex Institute seeks to perform in this year of the two hundredth anni- 
versary of the great jail delivery, the one bright spot in the gloom of that 
epoch in our history. "Yet, ere we left the hill, we could not but re- 
gret that there is nothing on its barren summit, no relic of old, nor let- 
tered stone of later days, to assist the imagination in appealing to the 
heart. We build the memorial column on the height which our fathers 
made sacred with their blood, poured out in a holy cause. And here, 
in dark, funereal stone, should rise another monument, sadly commemo- 
rative of the errors of an early race, and not to be cast down, while the 
human heart has one infirmity that may result in crime." 



CHAPTER XII. 

Souvenir Shopping. 

TTTFTER having gazed at what the old city has to show but holds fast 
r\ in her keeping, the visitor generally looks about to see what there 
i is for him to buy and take home as a memento of the time and 
place. The old curiosity shops are favorite places of resort, where al- 
most anything can be found from an antique sideboard to candle snuffers ; 
not to be had for a song, however, as the dealers well know the value of 
their time- honored wares, and Perkins, Stickney, Casey or Lawrence, 
never show eagerness to get rid of their goods, for does not each year 
that passes increase the age and therefore the par value of all the clocks 
and crockery? 

Furniture and China. J. J. Perkins, 6 Central street, was one of the 
earliest of the present generation of old furniture dealers to make a spec- 
ialty of collecting odd and out-of-the-way things for the benefit of the 
summer visitor. His stock is generally large and almost always contains 
a good specimen of the old-time secretary and chest of drawers. At the 
antique parlors of W. J. Stickney, 135 Essex street, one will find a rare 
collection of old blue printed ware, choice bits of " old china " including 
cups of the Lowestoft ware, whose origin is so earnestly discussed, and 
also clocks, tables, chairs and other pieces of furniture, veritable antiques 
and worthy the attention of collectors. At Lawrence's, 109 Essex street, in 
(162) 



A\oA^(-niz^A (oloni2.| 







SOUVENIR SHOPPING. 



163 



the rooms of an old-fashioned house, is to be found another general col- 
lection. There are also the junk-shops on Derby and Union streets, 
known as " Caseys," where one often finds in the apartments set aside for 
antiquities treasures in disguise, and a '' find" under sucli circumstances 
is one of the triumphs of life. 

Photographs. At Mr. Frank Cousins', 170-174 Essex street, will be 
found a complete stock of desirable pliotographs either mounted or un- 
mounted and covering every point whether of antiquarian, historical, 
scientific or architectural interest. Mr. Cousins has given his personal 
attention to this department and has had the assistance of some of the 
best of our local students in authenticating the historical sites and select- 
ing the views most valuable to collectors of antiquarian tastes. Those 
specially interested in Nathaniel Hawthorne, or in the witchcraft trage- 
dies will find in Mr. Cousins' list every view capable of being reproduced 
by photography. An hour can be pleasantly and profitably spent in look- 
ing over this most interesting series of views. At Mr. Cousins' may also 
be found the " Hawthorne " tile, which combines with a portrait of the 
author, the " town pump " and building made famous by their connection 
with Hawthorne's writings. 

Souvenb' Spoons. Mr. Daniel Low, at 231 Essex street, besides the 
usual exhibit of a well-equipped silversmith and jeweller's establishment 
makes a specialty of souvenir spoons. He was the first to introduce in 
this country souvenirs of this description, the " Salem Witch ' being his 
first venture, which was followed by another bearing the same name but 
of a different pattern ; these and the Hawthorne are of local interest. 
He has also as his own special designs the " Lief Erickson," ''Concord " 
and '' Lexington." The " Salem Witch " appears here also, emblazoned 
on cups and saucers and in the guise of sleeve buttons, scarf pins and a 
thousand and one ornaments of different kinds. 



1 64 visitor's guide to salem. 

Pottery, etc. Almy, Bigelow & Washburn, 188-192 Essex street, have 
an assortment of bowls, plates, etc., made in Japan from designs by Mr. 
Ross Turner, bearing upon them sketches of celebrated landmarks of 
Salem, Hawthorne house, Roger Williams house, etc., also the city seal. 
These are all pottery not porcelain, hence the broader effect in design 
and execution, and some forms remind one of our own early Danvers 
ware. This firm also shows souvenir designs in silver, using as far as 
possible symbols appropriate to the position of Salem as an historical 
maritime city, such as dolphins, shells, tridents, etc. The " Columbian 
Spoon" bears upon its head a conventional representation of the Santa 
Maria combined with decorations of a marine character. 

Gibraltars and Black Jacks. Another specialty of Salem the far-famed 
" Salem Gibraltars " and '' Black Jacks," so charmingly written of by 
Eleanor Putnam, may be found at many of the drug stores, but these im- 
mortal confections can always be obtained fresh at Harris, Read & Go's., 
Washington street, and made from the genuine receipt as handed down 
from generation to generation. Mrs. Silsbee in her " A Half Gentury in 
Salem," writes : " It may be said of Salem gibraltars that they speak for 
themselves ; their fame has been wide spread for more than sixty years, 
but perhaps the true story of their first appearance in the town which 
they helped to make famous is not generally known by the eating public. 
Mr. Spencer, an Englishman, came to this country about the year 1822, 
and, being desirous of obtaining work, was taken into the employment of 
Mr. Merritt, the expressman, who during a long life secured the respect 
and confidence of his fellow citizens. While in his family he experi- 
mented with the making of gibraltars, and succeeded so well that they 
met with a ready sale, which placed him in a comfortable position ; and 
it is probable that his mother soon followed him from England, as no old 
inhabitant of Salem can separate the idea of a gibraltar from a wagon 



SOUVENIR SHOPPING. 1 65 

driven by Mrs. Spencer from shop to shop, to supply the numerous 
wholesale customers. At first their means must have been limited, as a 
weekly purchase of the soft white paper in which the candy was neatly 
wrapped was as large an outlay as it seemed prudent to make, and it may 
be that this wise economy was an efficient aid to the extensive business 
following these very small beginnings. The gibraltars when fresh were 
almost as hard as their Spanish namesake, losing the brittle quality in 
course of time, but never melting into stickiness. The retail price was a 
silver four-pence halfpenny for seven, and many a child used to spend 
his or her whole allowance in the purchase of the tempting sweets." The 
"Black Jacks," the dark companions of the " Gibraltars," have always 
been a favorite with Salem children and older folk, too, as to that matter 
— they also have continued in the same hands as the gibraltar, and can 
be found on sale at the same places. In the stationery store of Merrill 
& Mackintire, and crockery stores of A. B. Russell and D. B. H. Power 
& Co., will be found articles specially designed as souvenirs of Salem, 
while in many other of the principal stores as well as at the art stores of 
X. H. Shaw & Son and W. D. Gardner, the tourist can find many arti- 
cles which will be interesting reminders of a visit to Salem. 



CHAPTER Xlir. 
List of Portraits. 

THE following list of portraits, which may be seen in buildings ac- 
cessible to the public in Salem, has been prepared for the con- 
venience of those who are interested in historical portraiture. Only 
portraits in oils and j^astels have been included, excepting in the few 
cases noted. 

C2istoi7i house, Derby street. Open, week days, from 9 a. m. to 2 
p. M. 

Hiller, Maj. Joseph, 1748-1814:. Fh'st collector under U. S. government, 
1789. Pastel. 

Coui't house, Federal street. All of the portraits are in the law li- 
brary, excepting that of Judge Shaw, which is in the court room. Open 
week days. 

Choate, George Francis, 1822-1888. Judge of Probate. By Frederick P. 
Vinton. 

Choate, Rufus, 1799-1859. Counsellor, U. S. senator, jurist. By Joseph 
Ames. 

Cushing, Caleb, 1800-1879. Jurist and diplomat. 

Ives, Stephen Bradshaw, 1827-1884. President Essex Bar Association. 
By John J. Redmond. 

Lord, Otis Phillips, 1812-1884. Judge, Supreme Court of Massachusetts. 
By Frederick P. Vinton. 
(166) 



LIST OF PORTRAITS. 167 

Moseley, Ebenezer, 1781-1854. Lawyer. By Miss Williams. 

Perkins, Jonathan Cogswell, 1809-1877. Judge of Court of Common Pleas. 
Crayon. 

Putnam, Samuel, 1768-1853. Judge of Supreme Court of Massachusetts. 

Saltonstall, Leverett, 1788-1845. Member of Congress, first mayor of Sa- 
lem. By George Southard, after Osgood. 

Shaw, Lenuiel, 1781-1861. Chief justice Supreme Court of Massachusetts. 
By William M. Hunt. 

City Hall^ 93 Washington street. Open each week day ; closed on 
hoUdays and Saturday afternoons. Apply at the city messenger's office. 

Bradstreet, Simon. Governor Massachusetts Bay Colony, 1679-86 and 
1689-92. By Joseph DeCamp, after painting at State House, Boston. 

Endicott, John. Governor of Massachusetts Bay Colony, 1629. By Geo. 
Southard, after original in possession of the family. 

Jackson, Andrew. Seventh president of U. S. By Maj. R. E. W. Earl. 

King, John Glen. President first Salem common council, 1836-1837. By 
Frank W. Benson, after Charles Osgood. 

Lafayette, Marquis de. By Chas. Osgood, after Prof. S. F. B. Morse. 

Oliver, Henry Kemble. Mayor of Salem, 1877-80. By Miss Adelaide Cole. 

Read, Charles Albert. Donor of the " Read Fund" of the City of Salem. 
By J. Harvey Young. 

Saltonstall, Leverett. First mayor of Salem, 1836-38. By Charles Os- 
good. 

Sheridan, Gen. Philip Henry. By Charles C. Redmond. 

Washington, George. By James Frothingham, after Gilbert Stuart (full- 
length) . 

Washington, George. By Jane Stuart, after her father Gilbert Stuart 
(half-length) . 

Public Library, 370 Essex street. Open week days, from 9 a. m. to 
8 p. M. Sundays, from 2 to 8 p. M. 
Bertram, John, 1796-1882. By Frederick P. Vinton. 



i68 visitor's guide to salem. 

Felt, Rev. Joseph Barlow, LL.D., 1789-1869. Historian. By Edgar 
Parker. 

Armory of the Salem Cadets, 136 Essex street. Open during the day 
upon application to the janitor. 

Abbott, Maj. Stephen. First commander, 1758-1788. By George South- 
ard. 

Daltou, Lt. Col. J. Frank. Commander, 1884-1891. By Charles C. Red- 
mond. 

Dalton, Adj. Gen. Samuel C. Commander, 1877-1882. By Charles C. Red- 
mond. 

Foster, Maj. S. B. Commander, 1847-1861. By J. Harvey Young. 

Hart, Lt. Col. John W. Present commander. Crayon photograph by W. G. 
Hussey. 

Sutton, Gen. William. Commander, 18^6-1841. By J. Harvey Young. 

Ellsworth, Col. E. E. Born 1887; shot by one Jackson at Alexandria, Va., 
May 24, 1861. From life, by J. Harvey Young. 

Brovvnell, Lieutenant. The avenger of Ellsworth. From life, by J. Har- 
vey Young. 

Washington, George. After Stuart (half-length). 

Salem Marine Society, Frankhn building, Washington square. Apply 
at the rooms on week days. 

Barnard, Edward, 1781-1858. Master mariner. Foreign. 
Bowditch, Nathaniel, 1773-1838. Mathematician. By Charles Osgood. 
Page, Samuel, 1778-1834. Master mariner. Foreign. 
West, Thomas, 1778-1849. Master mariner. By his son. 

State Normal School. Open on week days. Apply at the school 
building on the corner of Summer and Broad streets. 

Crosby, Prof. Alpheus. Principal, 1857 to 1865. By E. T. Billings. 
Crosby, Mrs. Martha (Kingman). Assistant, 1854 to 1865. Wife of last 
named (married, 1861). By E. T. Billings. 



LIST OF PORTRAITS. 1 69 

Echvards, Richard, LL.D. First principal, 1854-1857. 

Ha<>ar, Daniel Barnard, Ph.D. Principal, 1865, and at present time. By 
Edgar Parlcer. 

Hagar, Daniel Barnard. Crayon. By Miss Jennie F. Lewis. 
Mann, Horace, LL.D., 170G-1859. Philanthropist. By J. Harvey Young- 
Prescott, AVilliam Hicl^liug-. Historian. By J. Harvey Young. 
Washington, Martha. 

Essex Institute, at rooms 132 Essex street. Rooms open week days, 
except holidays, from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. 

Adams, John Quincy, 1767-1848. Sixth president U. S. 

Barnard, Kev. Edward, 1720-1774. Minister at Haverhill. 

Bentley, Rev. William, D.D., 1759-1819. Minister East Church, Salem. 

Bradstreet, Simon, 1603-1697. Governor Mass. Bay Colony. After paint- 
ing in Mass. senate chamber. 

Carnes, Capt. John, 1775-1796. Master mariner. 

Clarke, Mrs. Deborah. Wife of Francis Clarke, maternal grandmother of 
Lord Bryan Fairfax. 

Cole, Thomas, 1779-1852. Teacher and scientist. By Charles Osgood. 

Cromwell, Oliver. An old portrait. 

Cushing, Thomas, 1788-1825. Leader in Revolutionary War and lieuten- 
ant-governor of Massachusetts. 

Cutler, Rev. Manasseh, 1742-1823. Minister, member of congress and sci- 
entist. By Lakeman. 

Dabney, Jonathan Peele. At tlie age of thirteen. 

Dane, Nathan, 1752-1835. Member of congress and jurist. By Mrs. Da- 
vid, after a portrait in Dane Hall, Cambridge. 

Derby, Ezekiel Hersey, 1772-1852. Merchant. By Charles Osgood. 

Derby, Mrs. Hannah Browne. Wife of last named. 

Derby, Richard, 1712-1783. Merchant. Copy by George Southard. 

Endicott, John. Governor of Mass. Bay Colony. T. Mitchell, after portrait 
in council chamber, Boston. 

Endicott, John. By James Frothingham, after portrait in possession of 
the family. 



lyO visitor's guide to SALEM. 

Fisher, Dr. Joslma. 1749-1833. Physician in Beverly. 

Fitcli, Timothy, 1725-1790. Merchant of Boston. By John Singleton Cop- 
ley, nbont 1765. 

Fitch, Mrs. Eunice (Browne). Wife of last named. By John Singleton 
Coplej^ ai)out 17(i5. 

Forrestier, Augustine. Merchant in East Indies. Died about 1845. 

Gibaut, John. Portrait at the age of fourteen. 

Goodhue, Jonathan, 1783-1848. Merchant in New York. 

Hamilton, Alexander, 1757-1804. First secretary of the treasury, United 
States. By John Trumbull. 

Harrison, Wm. Henry, 1773-1844. Ninth president of the United States. 
By Abel Nichols. 

Higginson, Francis (?). First minister of Salem. An old portrait. 

Holyoke, Dr. Edward Augustus, LL.D., 1728-1829. Physician. By James 
Frothingham. 

Holyoke, Mrs. Elizabeth (Browne). Wife of Rev. Edward Holyoke. An 
old portrait. 

King, John Glen, 1787-1857. Counsellor. By Charles Osgood. 

Leavitt, Capt. Henry. Mariner. 

Leverett, Sir John, 161G-1679. Governor Massachusetts Bay Colony. An 
old portrait. 

Martineau, Harriet. Authoress. By Charles Osgood. 

Mason, Thomas. Merchant. Pastel. 

Le Mercier, Andrew, 1692-1763. Inscribed "wi Christo-vita est moriar 3Ier- 
ceriis in iUo." An old portrait. 

Nichols, Andrew, 1785-1853. First president Essex County Natural His- 
tory Society. By Miss Sarah Nichols. 

Orne, William, 1752-1815. Merchant of Salem. 

Paine, Mrs. Frederick W. By Charles Osgood. 

Paul I, Emperor of Russia, 1754-1801. 

Pepper rell, Sir William, 1696-1759. Merchant and commander against Lou- 
isburg, 1745. An old portrait. 

Perry, Rev. Gardner B., 1783-1859. Minister of Groveland. 

Phillips, Stephen Clarendon. 1801-1857. Merchant and second mayor of 
Salem. By George Southard. 



LIST OF PORTRAITS. I7I 

Pickerin^^, Timotlw, 1745-1829. Of Washington's cabinet, etc. By N. 
Lakeman, 182G. 

Pickman, Benjamin, 1763-1843. Merciiaiit and member of congress. 

Prince, Rev. John, 1751-1836 Pastor of First Church, Salem. 

Pynchon, William. 'Founder of Springfield " Lettered: ' Gull Pynchon. 
A rmgi Effigies Del m. AnnoDom. 1(;57. iEtat. 67." 

Roberts, David, 1804-1879. Thirteenth mayor of Salem. By George South- 
ard 

Rogers, Rev. John. Minister of First Church, Ipswich. By Smlbert. 

Ropes, David, 1739-1793. Pastel. 

Ropes, Mrs. Priscilla. Wife of last named. Pastel. 

Saltonstall, Leverett, 1783-1845. First mayor of Salem. By Charles Os- 
good. 

Sew^ell, Maj. Stephen, 1C57-1725. Clerk of -witchcraft court. An old por- 
trait. 

Sewall, Mrs. Margaret (Mitchell). Wife of last named. 

Story, Augustus, 1812-1882. Counsellor. Crayon. 

Story, Joseph, 1779-1845. Justice U. S. Supreme Court. By Charles Os- 
good. 

Story, Capt. William, 1774-1864. By Charles Osgood. 

Tayh)r, Zachary, 1784-1850. Twelfth president of the United States. By 
F. Alexander, 1848. 

Tucker, Ichabod, 1765-1846. Counsellor. 

Upham, Rev. Charles Wentworth, 1802-1875. Seventh mayor of Salem, 
minister of the First Church and author of Salem Witchcraft. By Charles 
Osgood. 

AVard, Gen. Frederick T., 1831-1862. Commander Chinese army during 
the Tai Piui; Rebellion. Crnyon. 

Wnshingtoii, George. After Stuart. Half-length. 

Webster, Daniel. U. S. senator. By Jane Stuart, after her father, Gil- 
bert Stuart. 

West, Benjamin. Killed at the battle of Bunker Hill. Copy of portrait by 
himself. 

Wheatland, Dr. Henry, 1812-1893, late president of Essex Institute. By 
F. P. Vinton. 



172 visitor's guide to SALEM. 

White, Daniel A., 1776-1861. Judge of probate for Essex county. First 
president of Essex Institute. By Chester Harding. 
White, Capt. Joseph. Merchant of Salem. Pastel. 
White, Mrs. Joseph. Wife of last named. Pastel. 

Peabody Academy of Science. Portraits of Salem merchants and mem- 
bers and officers of the East India Marine Society. Arranged on the 
north and south walls of the gallery in the East Hall of the Academy at 
161 Essex street. Open from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. week days, and from 
2 p. M. to 5 p. M. Sunday afternoons. 

Allen, Edward, 1735-1803. Merchant. 

Allen, John Fiske, 1807-1876. Merchant. Miniature in oil. 

Becket, John, 1776-1816. Master mariner. Pastel, Hornemann, 1808. 

Benson, Samuel, 1790-1862. Merchant, 

Beutley, Rev. William. Minister of the East Church and historian. 

Bertram, John, 1796-1882. Merchant. By Edgar Parker. 

Bowditch, Nathaniel, 1773-1838. Mathematician. By Charles Osgood. 

Briggs, James Bufflngton, 1790-1857. Master mariner. Foreign. 

BroAvn, William, 1770-1803. Master mariner. Foreign. 

Brown, William, 1783-1833. Master mariner. 

Bufflngton, James, 1798-1881. Master mariner. Foreign. 

Carpenter, Benjamin, 1751-1823. Master mariner. Foreign. 

Chever, James, 1791-1857. Master mariner. Crayon-photograph. 

Cleveland, George, 1781-1840. President East India Marine Society. Sil- 
liouette, with wife. 

Cleveland, George William, — Antwerp, J. Metzer. 

Clough, Benjamin. Master mariner. Crayon-photograph. 

Crowninshield, Benjamin, 1758-1836. Master mariner. Pastel. By Miss 
Mary Gulliver, after an old miniature. 

Crowninshield, Jacob, 1770-1808. Merchant and member of Congress. By 
Robert Hinkley, after an old miniature. 

Derby, Elias Haskett, 1739-1799. Merchant. By James Frothingham. 

Dodge, Pickering, 1778-1833. Merchant. George Southard, after Froth- 
in arham. 



LIST OF PORTRAITS. I 73 

Elkins, Henry, 17G1-1830. Master mariner. Pastel. By Hirschmann. 
Holland, 1791. 

Eshing. Merchant of Canton, China, abont 1825-40. By Chinese artist. 

Fettyplace, William, 1780-1807. Merchant. By Charles Osgood. 

Gale, Samuel. Master mariner. Foreign. 

Gray, William, 1750-1825. Merchant and lieutenant-governor of Massa- 
chusetts. After Stuart. 

Hodges, Benjamin, 1754-1806. First president of the East India Marine 
Society. Silhouette with "svife. 

Hodges, Jonathan, 1764-1837. First secretary East India Marine Society. 
Silhouette. 

Hodges, Joseph, 1787-1863. Master mariner. Enlarged photograph. 

Lander, William, 1778-1834. Master mariner. Foreign. 

Neal, Nathan Ward, 1797-1850. Merchant. By F. Alexander. 

Orue, William, 1752-1815. Merchant. Foreign. 

Peabody, Joseph, 1757-1844. Merchant. By Charles Osgood. 

Piclvman, Dudley Leavitt, 1779-1846. Merchant. By A. Hartwell, after 
Chester Harding. 

Pratt, Joseph. Master mariner. By Henry C. Pratt. 

Putnam, Allen, 1794-1868. Merchant. 

Ruee, Thomas. Master mariner. Foreign. 

Rogers, Richard Saltonstall, 1790-1873. Merchant. By Robert Hinkley. 

Said-Said. Sultan of Zanzibar. Foreign, about 1860. 

Saul, Thomas, 1787-1875. Master mariner. Foreign. 

Scobie, John J. Master mariner. Foreign. 

Silsbee, Benjamin Hodges, 1811-1880. Merchant. Crayon-photograph. 

Silsbee, Nathaniel, 1773-1850. Merchant and U. S. senator. By A. Hart- 
well, after Chester Harding. 

Story, William 1774-1864. Master mariner. Foreign. 

Tucker, Samuel Dudlej^, 1782-1857. Merchant. Daguerreotype. 

Tucker, Henry. Lost on Margaret, 1810. Pastel. 

Vanderford, Benjamin. Master mariner. Wilkes' Exploring Expedition. 
Silhouette. 

Ward, William Raymond Lee, 1811 (living). Senior member East India 
Marine Society, joined 1834. Resides In New York city. 

West, Nathaniel, 1756-1851. Merchant. By C. R. Leslie. 
14 



CHAPTER XIV. 
Bibliography. 

TO those who may wish to become more familiai- with Salem and its vi- 
cinity, and the history of this section, the following books -are sug- 
gested : 

" Annals of Salem," 2 vols., by the Rev. Joseph B. Felt. Two edi- 
tions — 1827 and 18^5, and now very scarce. 

"i\n Historical Sketch of Salem, 1826-1879," by Charles S. Osgood and 
Henry M. Batchelder. Publisher] by the Essex Institute, Salem, 1879. Price 
$8. Paper edition, not illustrated, ^1. 

Salem, in History of Essex County, Hurd. Pages 2 to 249 of Vol. I. This 
niiiy be consulted in the libraries. 

" Old Naunikeag." A short historical sketch of Salem and the surround- 
ing towns by C. H. Webber and W. S. Nevins. Published in 1877. Price, 
$2.50. Scarce, but copies may still be had. 

Songs and Saunter ings of a Poet and Naturalist, by W. G. Barton— G. W. 
Breed. Cloth, $1 50. 

" Salem Witchcraft," 2 vols., by Hon. Charles W. Uphara. Published in 
1867 and now rare. 

" Salem Witchcraft in Outline," by Mrs. Caroline E. Upham ; Salem Press, 
1892. Price, $1. 

" Witchcraft in Salem Village in 1692," by Winfield S. Nevins. Published 
by Lee & Shepard in 1892. Price, $1.25. 

Origin of the ( atholic Church in Salem and its growth, by Rev. L. S. 
Walsh. This may be consulted in the libraries. 
(174) 



BIBLIOGRAPHY. 1 75 

" Our Trees" (Essex Institute). An account of the trees in the streets of 
Salem, with the location of the clitterent species and historical and botanical 
notes. Out of print. 

" The North Shore of Massachusetts Bay," a guide and history of Marble- 
head, Juniper Point, Salem Neck, Beverly and Cape Ann, by Benj. 1). Hill 
and W. S. Nevins. Published by North Shore Pub. Co., Salem. Price, 25 
cents. 

" History and Traditions of Marblehead," by Samuel Roads, jr. Published 
by Houghton, Osgood & Co., Boston, isso. Price, $3 50. 

" A Half Century in Salem," by Mrs. M. C. D. Silsbee. Houghton, Mifliin 
& Co., 1887. Price, ^l. 

"The Hearths and Homes of Salem," by Geo. F. Davenport. Published by 
the Salem Observer. Price 25 cents. 

'• The Naumkeag Directory," compiled and published by Henry M. Meek; 
contains valuable and statistical information in regard to Salem. Price, ^2. 

" The Historical Collections" of the Essex Institute, published quarterly at 
$3 per annum, contains many valuable articles rel.iting to local history, 
genealogies, copie-: of records, etc , and the •' Bulletin " of the Institute con- 
tains many articles in relation to the natural history and archaeology of the 
region, including lists of plants, minerals and animals. 

The Salem Press Historical and Genealogical Record, Vols. I and II, 1890- 
92. Cloth, $10. 

Putnam's Monthly Historical Magazine, $2 per annum. Single numbers, 
25 cents. Continuation of the Salem Press Historical and Genealogical 
Record 

The Bulletin of the Salem Public Library, Vol. I, No. 3. contains a list of 
about 300 titles of books and articles in relation to Salem which may be con- 
sulted at the library. 

Salem Historical Calendar for 1802. Compiled by A. A. Stewart. Gives 
opposite each day in the year some event in Salem history of which the day 
is the anniversary. Price 25 cents. 



INDEX. 



Adams, Prest. Jolin, in Salem, ..... 

Adams, Prest. John Qnincy, in Salem, . , , 
Almshouse, ......... 

American Association for the Advancement of Science, 

Andrew house, 

Animals, native, .... 

Armory, Salem Cadets, 
Armory, Salem Light Infantry, . 
Arthur, Prest. Chester A., in Salem, 
Arthur, Prince, of England, in Salem, 

Asbury Grove, 

Associated Charities, 

Asylum, City Orphan, 

Asylum, State Lunatic, atDanvers,. 

Athenseum, Salem, .... 



Bainbridge, Com., in Salem, 

Bands, military, etc., 

Banks and Insurance, 

Barnard, Rev. Thomas, residence. 

Belcher, Gov., in Salem, 

Bell, oldest in Salem, 

Bells (see Churches), 

Bentley, Rev. William, 

Bertram, John, . . . . 

Bertram, John, residence, . 



Page 
21 

21, 77 

59 

99 

11 

122 

50 

52 

22 

51 

132 

100 

103 

134 

62 

16 
52 
105 
19 
15 
37 

32 

101, 102 

60 



(177) 



178 



INDEX. 



Page 

Bethel, seamen's, ^^ 

Beverly shore, ^^^ 

Bibliography, • . . . . 174 

Boarding houses, 1^^ 

Bowditch, Nathaniel, birthplace, 13 

Bradstreet, Gov. Simon, house- site, 10 

Bridge, Beverly or Essex, 120, 122 

Bridge, floating, 1-^0 

Bridge, North, 17 

Burnet, Gov., in Salem, 17 

Business, 105 

Cadets, Salem : portraits belonging to, ..... 168 

Cadets, Salem (see Armory), 

Cemetery, Greenlawn, 114 

Cemetery, Harmony Grove, 114 

Cemetery, Eoraan Catholic, 114 

Cemeteries, old, 112 

Chebacco ponds, 132 

Church, First, original contract for building, .... 56 

Church, First Puritan (meeting-house), 5, 74 

Church, old Topsfleld, moved, H 

Churches, where located, 30 

Churchyard, St. Peter's, 115 

Charities, ' 100 

Charters, Conant's and Endicott's, 2 

" Chesapeake" and " Shannon," 20 

Choate, Rufus, residence, 15 

City Buildings, 53 

Clay, Henry, in Salem, 15 

Clocks, old church and town (see Churches), .... 

Congress, First Provincial, 17 

Commerce, early, 7 

Common, The, . .- 115 



INDEX. 



179 



Conant, Kojjcr, ...... 

Conant, Koj^er, house-site, 
Corwiu, Justice Jonathan, 

Court, District, 

Court Houses, 

Crowninshield, Georg-e, residence, 
Crowninshield, Senator B. W., residence, 
Custom House, ..... 
Cuvier Natural History Society, 



Danvers, .... 

Dan vers Historical Society, 
Derby, E. Hersey, residence, 
Derby, Elias Haslvett, residences, 
Derby, John P., residence, 
Drives and wallvs, 
" Dungeons," glacial, 



East India Marine Society, 

Electrical, 

Endicott, Hon. W. C, residence, 

Endicott, John, 

Endicott, John, house-site, 
Endicott pear tree, .... 

English, Philip, .... 

E -isex County collections at the Museum, 
Essex County Natural History Society, 
'■Essex" frigate, .... 

Essex Historical Society, . 
Essex Institute, .... 

Essex Institute, historical relics, 
Essex Institute, library of, 
Essex Institute, objects desired for collections, 



Page 
2 

D 

6, 12, 25 

48 

45 

42 

IG, 101 

10 41, 157 

99 



134 
135 

11 
17, 57 

16 
126 
121 

76, 97 

108 

16 

2 

9 

lU 

26, 36 

81 

(i3 

116 

63 

63 

67 

71 

74 



1 80 INDEX. 

Page 

Essex Institute, portraits, • 1^9 

Express lines, 1^^ 

Eire department, -• • ^8 

Elowers about Salem, 123 

Franklin building, 100 

Fraternity, Tlie, lO-t 

Furniture and eliina, shops, 163 

GalloM^s Hill, 25, 143, IGl 

Geology of Salem, 120 

Gibraltars and Black- Jacks, 1^4 

Goodhue, Senator Benj., residence, 15 

Grant, Brest. U. S., in Salem, 22 

Gray, William, residence, 15 

Great Pastures, 118 

" Grimshawe house," 153 



Hall, Acndemy, 49, 79 

Hall, Assembly, 10 

Hall, City, 53 

Hall, Grand Army, 50 

Hall, Hamilton, 50 

Hall, Lyceum, 49 

Hall, Mechanic, 49 

Hall, Plummer, 62 

Hall, Town, • . 57 

Hall, Washington, . • 49 

Halls, public 49 

Hamilton, 132 

Hamilton, Alexander, in Salem, 11 

Haraden, Jonathan, residence, 22 

Harbor, Salem, 117 



INDEX. 1 8 1 

Page 

Hawthorne, Nathaniel, 6, 41, 43, 146 

Hawthorne, Nathaniel, birthplace, 149 

" Heaven and the Day of Judgment," carving, ... 98 

Higginson, Francis and John, 8 

Holyoke, Dr. E. A , house-site, 10 

Hospital, Salem, 101 

Hotels, 109 

" House of the Seven Gables," 155 

Houses, finest old, 10 

Indian deed, 3, 55 

Indian ridges, 122 

Infantry, Salem Light (see Armory), . . . . 

Introductory, . . 1 

Islands in Salem harbor, .117 

Jackson, Prest. Andrew, in Salem, 22, 55 

Jail, 49 

Johnson. Rev. Samuel, birthplace, 13 

Juniper Point, 1 16 

Kames, 122 

Lafayette, Marquis de, in Salem, 10, 15, 22, 55 

Lander, Gen. Frederick, birthplace, 22 

Leslie's retreat (see Bridge, North), 

Liberty Hill, 118 

Library, Athenfeum (see Athenaeum), 

Library, Essex Institute, 71 

Library, Public, ^0 

Log-books: sea journals, 73 

Loring, Hon. Geo. B., residence, 10 

Lynde, Judge Benjamin, house, 14: 



1 82 INDEX. 

Page 

Macintire, Samuel, work of, 16,34,53,70 

Manchester, 131 

Manuscripts, collection at Essex Institute, .... 70 

Marbleliead, 126 

Marine Society, 100 

Marine Society, portraits at, • 168 

Market, City Fish, 59 

Market house, 57 

Master Mechanic's Association, ....... K'o 

Mathew, Theobald, statue, 17 

" May Flower" The, at Salem, ....... 9 

Miller, Gen. James, residence, 22 

Missionaries, first ordained, 33 

Monroe, Prest. James, in Salem, 16,21,57 

Nnhant beach, 129 

ISTarbonne house, 4, 10 

Natural Objects of Interest, 119 

Naumkeag Steam Cotton Co., 106 

" Neck," Salem, ......... 115 

Newspapers, 110 

Old Ladies' Home, 101 

Old Men's Home, 102 

Organs (see Churches), 

Peabody, . 133 

Peabody Academy of Science, 75 

Peabody Academy of Science, Essex Co. collections, . . 81 

Peabody Academy of Science, ethnological collections, . . 87 

Peabody Academy of Science, guide to the collections, ... 81 

Peabody Academy of Science, portraits, 172 

Peabody Academy of Science, zoological collections, ... 86 



INDEX. 



183 



Peabod.Y, Elizabeth, . 
Peabody, George, of London, 
Perry, Com., in Salem, 
Peter, Hng:!!, honse site, 
Pliotograplis, liistorical, 
Plckerino-, Col. Timothy, birthplace, 
Pickering, John, L.L.I)., . 
Pickman, Col. Beiij., honse. 
Pierce, Benjamin, birthplace, 
Points of Historical Interest, 
Police station, .... 
Polk, Prest. James K., in Salem, . 
Portraits, list of, in public buildings 

Post Office, 

Pownall, Gov., in Salem, . 

Plummer, Caroline, 

Plummer Farm School, 

Prescott, AVilliam Hickling, birthplace 

Public Buildings, 

Public Grounds, .... 

Public Library (see Library) , 

Pue, Jonathan, grave of. 

Pump, Hawthorne's town. 

Railroad, Boston and Maine stations 

Railroad communication, . 

Railroad, street lines, 

Read, Nathan, .... 

Reed (see Read), .... 

Restaurants, .... 

Revere and Sons, bell, . 

Rocks, near Salem, 

Rogers, John, birthplace, 

Rumford, Count (see Thompson, Benjamin; 



Page 

153 

G4, 77, 98, 133 

16 

9 

163 

12 

14 

11 

14 

8 

58 

22 

166 

44 

11 

14, 103, 113 

103 

13, 62 
28 

112 

38 
158 

50 
107 
107 

14, 62 

109 
32 

120 
16 



184 INDEX. 

Page 

Salem Charitable Mechanic Association, 104 

"Scarlet Letter," ....'.... 38,44,152,157 

School, art decoration in, 28 

School, Curwen indnstrial, 28 

School houses, where located, 29 

School, State Normal, 28 

School, State Normal, portraits, 168 

Schools, parochial, 28 

Seal, city, 68 

Seaman's Orphan and Children's Friend Society, ... 103 

Settlers : early sites of houses, ...... 8 

Sheridan, Gen. P. H., in Salem, 55 

Ship Rock, 121 

Ships, Salem, models and pictures of, 66, 96 

Silsbee, Senator Nathaniel, residence, 15 

Silsbee, Z., house, 11 

Skelton, Samuel, house-site, ........ 8 

Souvenir shopping, 162 

Spoons, souvenir, 163, 164 

Steamboat of N. l?ead, 14 

Story, Judge Joseph, residence, ....... 15 

Story, W. W., birtliplace, 15 

Streets, oldest, 8, 10 

Swampscott beaches, 129 

Tablets, historical, 17, 19, 24, 31, 113 

Thompson, Benjamin ; Count Rumford, 13 

Town Hall (see Hall, Town), 

Town House, 17 

Trees about Salem, 123 

Upham, Hon. C, W., residence, 27 

Walks about Salem 140 



INDEX. 185 

Page 

"Waller house (see Ward, John), 

"Ward, Gen. rredeiick T., residence, 22 

"Ward, John, honse, 10 

War record of Salem, 20 

"Washington, George, in Salem, .... (J, 10, 11, 21, 45, 53, 55 

"Washington Square, 115 

"Water "Works, 59 

Webster, Daniel, in Salem, 15 

Wenham lake, 132 

Wheatland, Henry (see Essex Institute), 

Whipping post, 49 

Williams, Roger, house, 4, 11, 25 

"Willows," The, 115,116 

Windows, stained glass memorial, 34, 36, 38, 40 

Winthrop, Henry, drowned, 20 

Winthrop, John, landing of, 9 

Witchcraft delusion, 3, 23 

Witchcraft, relics, 25, 48 

Witchcraft, sites in Danvers, 134 

Witchcraft, sites in Salem, 22 

Witch Hill (see Gallows Plill), 

Witch house (see Williams, Roger), 

Women's Friend Society, 102 

Wood- wax {Genista Ti)ictoria), 118, 124 

Worcester, Joseph E., school, 14 

Yacht building, 110 

Young, J. Harvey, residence, 52 

Young Men's Christian Association, 104 



SOUVENIRS ©F SALEM 



IN STERLING SILVER. 
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souvenir spoons. Two patterns; made in Tea, Coffee and Orange Spoons, 
Bonbon Spoons and Tongs, Sugar Spoons, Paper Knives, etc. 



The " Nathaniel Haw- 
thorne" Spoon — A souvenir 
that will meet with the favor of his 
many admirers. Made in Tea, Coffee 
and Orange sizes. 

"Witch" Novelties in Sterling 
Silver. — Scarf Pins, Lace Pins, Hat Pins, 
Book Marks, Stamp Boxes, Match Boxes, 
Sleeve Buttons, etc. 





LACE PIN 
Illustrated catalogues of Souvenirs free 

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I cWgIci? QiT)Gi ©ilversirjiir) 

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231 ESSEX ST., 
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Visitors to this city are invited to inspect our stock, the largest in this vicinity. Our store is on 
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Society is one of the oldest in America, their first church being erected on this same spot in 1634. 




visitor's guide to SALEM, 

visiTOR^o^jg^Qj-j^ Salem 

May obtain the services of 

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By inquiring at the office of 
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The district covered 
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Address ....... includes not only 

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Publisher of Visitor's Guide Beverly, Marblehead 

'- — '■ — '■ — '■ — '. — '. — '. and Peabody. 



visitor's guide to SALEM. 



Established 1811. 
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^ NATIONA L . . ^ 

BANK 



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(Town House Square) 

Capital, $200,000. Surplus and Profits, $100,000. 



Safe Deposit Boxes, ^5 to ^15 per year. 
Storage for silverware and valuables. 

President^ E. Aug. Emmerton. Cashier, Henry M. Batchelder. 

Directors: 

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James Braden Geo. M. Harris 

James F. Almy Philip Little 

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A FINE 

COLLECTION of 

OLD HISTORICAL BLUE PLATES, 

RARE OLD CHINA, 

ANTIQUE FURNITURE, ETC. 

FOR SALE AT 

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No. 135 SALEM, MASS. 

Essex Street. 



^.^ISITORS HH 

desiring to take a drive 
about the city 

will find j^g^i- carriages 

^* "• ^' ^"^ experienced drivers 

THYNG 11 ii 



^ SON, Washington Square 

13 Brown Street. StableS. 

Telephone 146-2. 



visitor's guide to SALEM. 




WITCH 
CREAM 

Softens, Seals, Feeds, 

CLixd SecLVLtiJies t?te 

S'k.trh. 

A Chap 



Sof/rAf/mmme,ffrAi/r/ry///G. 
Jt (s (jiif'rkn'ai?sor/^&iaiii) 

ffijouris/iesi/ieskw nnc(Aeeps 
U fresh t/nfi/imff/iy. 

^/&vfW7 , Wiic/i Cream 

is 2iefy/ieriftlrJa/,/wrffreas^. 
ft/f^coffiaiiisno/ioisirn or' 
m/^ie/rt^r}iyriPAiettf. 

Price 25 cents. 

V APOTHCCARiCb, ** 



Specific 



SootTxtrtgly Kelpfixl -in 

Salt RTtevLTTh and 

.Eczema.. 




C. H. & J. PRICE, 

SALEM, MASS. 



VISITOR'S GUIDE TO SALEM. 



Carry away with you 
a sweet remembrance 



of Salem 





by buying the Genuine 

SALEM GIBRALTERS 
^"^ BLACK JACKS 



°^ Harris, Read & Co. 

No. 85 Washington Street. 



A. A. AVERILLE, 



Notarg public, 



POST OFFICE IIUILDING, 



No. 118 Washington Street, Salem, 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM. 



5al<^/n ^t(:}7i9(Js. 



BY ... . 

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OR . . . 

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Sent by mail, post-paid, to any address 
upon receipt of price 



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ESSEX INSTITUTE 



VISITOR S GUIDE TO SAL.EM. 



Salem Witchcraft in Outline, 



BY MRS. CAROLINE E. UPHAM. 



THIS work is a small octavo, printed on heavy paper, with a 
liandsome and appropriate cover. . . . Mrs. Upham 
is the daughter-in-law of the late Hon. Chas. W. Upham, the author 
of "Salem Witchcraft," pubhshed in two volumes by Wiggin & 
Lunt in 1867, which is now inaccessible to most people, being 
quoted at the high price of $30 for the octavo edition and ^50 for 
the large paper edition. 

The questions are being continually asked : What was the 
witchcraft delusion ? Who were concerned in it ? How many were 
hung? Who hung them? These questions very few can answer 
without reading for hours through critical essays and extensive 
or fragmentary histories. Mrs. Upham's little book gives a con- 
cise and fascinating description of the whole tragedy, yet her style 
is so hght, without being irrelevant, that her story entertains with- 
out tiring. . . The first edition of this book appeared in July, 
1 89 1, yet the demand was so great that tlie third edition was 
reached before Christmas. 



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VISITOR s guidp: to salkri. 



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BE^-^r CU^^TUM 



visitor's guide to SALEM. 



HISTORIC 
SALEM. 



The Sce?ie of Witchcraft and the 
Home of Hawthorne. 

Views of its nooks and corners, highways and byways, from 
"Witch Hill " to the " House of the Seven Gables." 



A New Series of Artistic 



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Size 7x9 inches; mounted or unmounted. 
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The Hawthorne Tile. 

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Price, 50 cents. 10 cents extra by mail. 

FRANK COUSINS' BEE-HIVE, 

SALEM, MASS. 



VISITOR'S GUIDE 



TO 



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Salem, Mass 

Eben Putnam, Publisher 

1894. 



visitor's guide to SALEM. 



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